VOCATIONAL HIGHER SECONDAR Y TEXTILE D YEING AND

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VOCATIONAL HIGHER SECONDARYTEXTILE DYEING ANDPRINTINGTEACHER’SSOURCEBOOKCLASSXIIGOVERNMENT OF KERALADepartment of EducationSCERT -- 2006STATE COUNCIL OF EDUCATIONAL RESEARCH & TRAINING (SCERT)VIDYABHAVAN, POOJAPPURA, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM -12KERALA

SOURCEBOOKVocationalHigherSecondaryCourseTEXTILE DYEING ionalResearch&Training(SCERT),Vidyabhavan, rLab.Published on June, 2006 GovernmentofKeralaDepartmentofEducationSCERT--2006

PrefaceDear Teacher,The children promoted to the second year course of study are having a basis idearegarding Textile Dyeing and Printing. They were evaluated continuously during thefirst year class in a learner centred and process oriented pedagogy.The paradigm applied to those children in their secondary classes is to be continuedin Higher Secondary level also, but we know that most of the present higher secondaryteachers are not familiar with this paradigm. Hence for the first time we are introducingSourcebooks for all the subjects included in the Higher Secondary curriculum.The sourcebook for “Textile Dyeing and Printing” will be helpful to prepare yourselfto be competent in the activity oriented pedagogy. It is complementary to the training youhave undergone in the beginning of the academic year.The sourcebook has three parts. Part I gives you the general approach to the teachinglearning process of “Textile Dyeing and Printing”. It also covers the curricular objectivesand syllabus of the subject. The term-wise distribution and time schedule of the syllabuswill be helpful for proper planning to complete the syllabus in a time bound, but efficientand effective manner. Towards the end of this part, the learning activities that can beapplied and narrated and some of them are taken for continuous evaluation as per thedirections of Higher Secondary curriculum committee. Evaluation indicators andguidelines for setting questions for written examination are also indicated in this part.Part II of this book deals with the activities that can be carries out to attain thecurricular objectives and are described chapter-wise. The activities specified are triedout and found apt and time bound. Being the teachers in different school situations, youhave the freedom to choose alternate activities, but should ensure the feasibility, studentsinvolvement and time limit while selecting activities or strategies. Part III contains theactivities to be performed, sample questions, list of equipments/apparatus/machinery/required and the list of books.Suggestions are invited to improve the quality of the book as well as the teachinglearning process to attain the objectives of the new pedagogy.With regards,Dr. E. Valsala KumarThiruvananthapuramJune -- 2006DirectorSCERT, Kerala

TEXTILE DYEING AND PRINTINGCONTENTSSl. No.PART I1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.PART II(Theory)1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.PART III(Practical )1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.TopicPageGeneral ApproachSubject wise ApproachTeaching strategiesLearning StrategiesCurriculum 1Sulphur and Vat coloursDispersed and Oxidised colourMordant and Mineral coloursAzoic dyes.Introduction to Textile PrintingMethods of PrintingStyles of PrintingRecipes for printing and After treatmentsIntroduction to Textile FinishingFinishing Machinery46495255586162666971Application of sulphur dyes on cottonVat dyes on cottonAzoic dyes on cottonDispersed dyes on nylon and TeryleneAnalysis of dyestuffsColour MatchingColour MixingPreparation of stencil, Screen and BlocksPrinting with Direct, Reactive, Vat, azoicand dispersed dyesBatik and Tie dyeingList of Equipments/Machinery/ ApparatusSample QuestionsList of Books75767778808384868789919195

Textile Dyeing and PrintingGeneral ApproachIntroductionThe ultimate aim of education is humanrefinement. Education should enable thelearner to formulate a positive outlooktowards life and to accept a stand which suitsthe well being of the society and theindividual as well.The attitude and potential to 'to work' hasdetermined the destiny, progress and culturaldevelopment ofthe human race. As we all areaware, the objective of education to form asociety and individuals having a positivework culture. The educational processexpected in and outside our formal schoolsshouldconcentrateuponinculcatingconcepts, abilities, attitudes and values intune with these 'work culture.' Hencevocationalised education cannot be isolatedfrom the main stream of education. In anthorsence, every educational process should bevocationalised. However, due to our inabilityto utilise the resources wisely, scarcity of jobOpportunities is a service issue of thepresent society. For overcoming this deepcrisis, emergenet techniques have to be sortedout and appropriate researches have to beseriously carried out. It is in the sence that thecontent and methodology of VocationalHigher Secondary Education have beapproached.The Vocational Higher Secondary course wasenvisaged as a part of the National Policy onEducation with the noble idea of securing ajob along with education. The relevance ofvocational education is very great in this ageof unemployment. This education system,which ensures a job along with highereducation, stands aloof from other systems ofeducation.A learning enviornment which ensuresvocational aptitude, vocational training, basiclife skills, competencies related to differentsubjects, appropriate va lues and attitudes andexistential readiness has to be provided here.

Vocational Higher Secondary School -11 Year (Theory)The curriculum should be one whichrecognises the specific personality of thelearner and should develop it in a desirableway. It should provide opportunity to imbibenovel ideas to follow a ctritical approach andfor learning through experiences.The competency to transform ones ownresources for the betterment of the societyand the individual is to be ensured in eachindividual. Training in the sense ofequality, democratic sense, enviommentalconsiousness and devotion to theconstitution is an inseparable factor of thecuniculum.The need of a systematic curriculum isprevailing in vocational subjects. Ascientificallystructuredcurriculumincorperating the unique features peculiarityof Kerala ensuring the possibility of highereducation and utili sing the national andinternational possibilities of employment isrequired.The new curriculum should be capable ofassimilating the life skills, scientific temper,attitude of co-existence, leadership qualitiesand mental health to face the challengesoflife. It should be capable of strengtheningthe competencies imbibed by the learners upto the tenth class.oriented, need based vocational curriculumWhat is learning?.Learning is construction of knowledge andso it is a live and continuous mental process.Learning is a process of advancementthrough adding and correcting in the light ofcomparing the new issue with the previouslylearned concepts.Learning takes place as a part of theeffort to solve problems.Learning takes place by assimilating bitsof knowledge into ones own cognitivestructure.Learning is not a linear process. It is aspiral process growing deeper andwider.Learning is an intellectual process ratherthan the mere memorisation of facts.Learning is a conglomeration of avariety activities like problem analysis,elucidation, critical thinking, rationalthinking, finding out co-relations,prediction, arriving at ties and extracting the crux.When opportunities are proviced forintellectual processes learning willbecome effective and intellectual abilitywill get strengthend.Theoretical foundations of learningEducation is the best device that can be

4Textile Dyeing and Printingadopted for creation of a new society. Itshould be democratic in content and processand should acknowledge the rights of theaction to develop nationality, humaness andlove and against the enchroachment of theIt is high time that education wasrecognised on the basis of thephilosophy of human education. Thehuman approach to education has toreflect in its content, learning processand outlook. The perspective of 'learningto be' and learning to live together asexpressed by the UNESCO and theconcepts of existentialist ism of caste and religion.intelligence.learner. It should also provide opportunityfor better citizenship training. The conceptof equality at all areas shouldrecognition in theory and practice.getThere should be consious programme ofThe basis of new approaches onThe learner should be able to take finnsteps and deferred against the social crisislikeprivatisation,liberalisation,curriculum, teaching-learning process arederived from the developments place in theeast and west of the world.globalisation etc and against all kinds ofdominations.When we begin to see the learner at thecentre of the learning process, the teachingThey should develop a discrimination toprocess has to be changed timely. It is theresult ofthe rapid growth and developmentof Science and Technology and Pedagogy. Ifuse the acquired learning as a liberativeweapon.They should get opportunity to recognisethat co-operation is better than competitionand that co-operation is the key to social lifeand cultureA basic awareness of all the subj ectsneeded for life essential for all students.The remnants of perspectives formedin us during the colonial period stillinfluence our educational philosophy.The solution to the present dayperplexities of the society whichapproaches education on the basis ofcompetitions and marketisation is only acomprehensive view of life.we want to undergo the changing process,we have to imbibe the modem hypothesisregarding learner, they have; Great curiosityGood ImaginationNumerous other qualities andinterestIndependent individualityInterest in free thinking andworking in a fearless atmosphere.Have interest in enquiring andquestioningAbility to reach conclusions afterlogical thinking.

5Vocational Higher Secondary School -II Year Theory) ability for manifest and establish To classifyfreely the conclusions arrived at. To measure and prepare charts Interest for recognition in the society. To experiment Determination to face the interference To predictof society and make components which To recognize and cont6rol theis a part of social life.When we consider the learning system,variables To raise questions To generalizebecomes relevant. To form a hypothesis and check.The knowledge domain consists To concludethe domains to be stressed in educationaccording to the modem development To communicateFacts To predict and inferIdeas To use toolsLaws ObservationThe temporary conclusions andprinciples used presently byscientists.The learning is a process. Thecontinuous procedures we undergo toreach a particular goal is process. Theskills which are parts of the process toanalyse the collected ideas and proofsand come to a conclusion is calledprocess skills. Some important processskills are,The skills; To observe To collect data and recordis the process ofacquiring knowledge through rienceswhich provide the opportunity to useall the senses may be used.The process of grouping is knownas classifying. Starting from simplegroupings of data, it can extend tothe level of classification intominute subgroups.In addition to this, consider the skillsrelated to creative domain also, they areskills: To visualizeTo connect facts and ideas in newways

6Textile Dyeing and printingTo findout new and uncommon uses of objects Take the help of scientific processto solve the problems of daily lifeChoose a scientific life style To fantasize Connect the ideas acquired with To dream To developother subjectscreativeisolated thoughtsIntegrate the subjects with othersubjectsCreativity is involved in finding outSome basic stands have to be takenproblems, formation of hypothesis,on the new scientific knowledgefinding' solutions' to problems etc.about intelligence learning andThrough activity oriented learningteaching. When such basic conceptsexperiences, opportunities to expressare accepted changes are required inagain, the following factors consisting inthe following factorsthe Attitudinal domain Self confidence Love for scientific knowledge Attitude to know and value history Respect human emotions Decidewithcontent of the curric ulum.reasonablepresentproblems Take logical decisions regardingpersonal values'Hypothesis'isatemporaryconclusion drawn using insight. Basedon knowledge and experiences relatingto the problems the causes and solutionscan be guessedAs regards the application domain theimportant factors are the ability to : The vision, approach, structure andObserve in daily life examples ofideas acquired The vision, approach, structure andcontent of the textbooks. Role of the teacher and the learner Learneratmosphere,learningmaterials and learning techniques.Some scientific pespectives accepted bymodern world in educational psychologyare given below.Constructivism This approach putsforward the concept that the learnerconstructs knowledge. New knowledgeis constructed when ideas are examinedand practiced in new situations relatingthem with the previously acquiredknowledge and experience. That isassimilated into the congnitive structureof one's knowledge. This method which

,7Vocational Higher Secondary School-II Year (Theory)gives priority to critical thinking and proble solvingprobing for other possibilities, extracting the cruxprovides opportunity for self motivated learning.and other processes are of critical importance inlearning.Social ConstructivismConstructivismgivesgreaterto co-operative learning.Social and cultural factors influence learning.Sharing of knowledge and experience amonglearners, collective enquiry, assessment ng,bysharingresponsibilities with the objective of publicactivity, provide opportunity for effectivelearning.In learning internal motivation is moreimportant than external motivation. Thelearner should have interest and initiative inlearning. Learning situation should becapable of forming a sense of ownership inof the learner regarding the learning process.Social constructivism is a sub section ofpredominanceconstructivism. Knowledge is formed, spread andimbibed and it becomes relevant in a socialenviomment. Interactive learning, group learning,co-operative participatory learning, all these areconcepts put forward by social constructivism.The main propounders of constructivism arepiaget, vygotsky and Bruner.Discovery learning and interactivelearning have prime importance. Learningtakes place as a part of the attempt forproblem solving. The activities of a learnerwho confronts cognitive disequilibrium in alearning situation when he triesto overcome it is leades to the renewal ofcognitive structure. It is through this processconstruction of new knowledge and theassimilation of them that learning takeplace. Observation and enquiry areunavoidable factors.The learner advances towards new areas ofacquisition of owledge where he tries tocompare his new findings with the existingconceptions.Learning is a live mental process. Ratherthan the ability for memorisation of factscognitive process has to be given emphasis.The process of problem analysis, elucidation,critical thinking, rational thinking, findingout co-relation, prediction, hypothesisformation, application,Learning is not a linear process. Itprogresses in a spiralled way advancingdeeper and wider.Learner-his nature and featuresThe learners in standard XI has undergonea learner centered and process orientedlearning experience up to X standard. He isadequately competent to select vocationalsubjects according to his aptitude and interestand to acquire higher education andprofessionas he wishes. The aspirations.about future life is framed in this particularage foreseeing national and international joboppurtunities. Some of the peculiarities ofthe learner at this stage are:

8 Physical, intellectual and emotionalplanes are intensive changes duringthis age and their reflections can beobserved.Ability to enquire, discover andestablish cause-effected relationshipbetween phenomena. Readiness to undertake challenges. Capacity to shoulder leadership roles. Attempt to interpret oneself. Susceptibility to different pressecures. Doubts, anxities and eagerness aboutsex. Sharer of information. Share of responsibilities Collects information Takes leadership Involves in group work. Acts as co-participant Observes his environment Experiments and realises Makes interpretations and drawsinferences.Role of the TeacherThe teacher should : Lounging for social recognition Consider the ‘Stress and Strain’ of theteenagers Understand the socio-economic andcultural background of the students. Promote and motivate the students toconstruct knowledge. Arrange proper situatio n to interact inan outside of the classroom Guide the students by explanations,demonstrations etc.Needs of the learner To make acquaintance with a jobthrough vocational education To acquire more knowledge in theconcerned area through highereducation To recognize and encourage thepeculiar personality of the lateradolescent period. To enable him to defend against theunfavourable circumstances withoutany help. Promote opportunity for co-operativelearning and collaborative learning. Role of the learner Facilitate the interpersonal and intrapersonal interactions Active participation in the learningprocess. Acts as a democratic leader Acts as a researcher Acts as a problem solver

9-Vocational Higher Secondary School 11 Year (Theory). . effectively guide the students for theselection and conduct of variouscontinuous evaluation elements.continuously evaluate the progress ofthe learners.gives scaffolding/supportnecessary.wherevermotivate for learningpromote divergentthinking.actas a democratic group leader.act as a co-learnergivesvariety.oflearningexperiences. be a constant studentfacilitateforreference/datacollectionhave a clear under standing about theage, needs, peculiarities, abilities,nature, aptitude etc. ofthe learner.he a good organiser, guide, friend,philosopher and co- learner:have an inter disciplinary approach inlearning activities.be able to guide the learner in his/her careerprospects based on his interest aptitude andability.beimpartialdemocratic.andprovide ample experiences to attain thebasic values and objectives of thecurriculum.New Concepts of Learning1. Discovery LearningThe teacher has to create a motivatingatmosphere for the learner to discoverconcepts and facts, instead of listeningalways. Creating occasion to progresstowards discovery is preferred. Instead ofhave the ability to motivate the learnertelling everything before and compelling toin order to acquire and enrich their initiate the models, situations are to beknowledge.created to help the children act models asbe a guide to the learner in developing themselves.insights and creating responses on 2. Learning by discussioncurrent affairs.That discussion leads to learning isbe capable to lead the learner into aBurner's theory. Here discussion is notvariety oflearning methods and processopposing each other. It is a sharing on thebased on curricular objectives.plane of ideas. New ideas are arrived at bybe a link between school andcommunity.seeking explanations, by mutual giving andtaking of ideas and by problem solving.

10Textile Dyeing and Printing3. Problem solving and learningOnly when the learner feels that some thing isa problem to be solved that he takes theresponsibility of learning it. It is an inborntendency to act to solve a problem that causescognitive disequilibrium in a particular area. It isalso needed to have confidence that one iscapable of doing it. The problems are to bepresented in consideration of the ability and levelof attainment of the learner.4. Collaborative learningThis is the learning in which theresponsibilities are distributed among themembers of the group keeping commonlearningobjectives.Thecommonresponsibility of the group will be successfulonly if each member discharges his duties.All the members will reach a stage of sharingthe result oflearning, equally through theactivity with mutual understanding. Theteachers who arrange collaborative learningwill have to make clear the responsibilites tobe discharged. This is possible through thediscussion with the learners. Collaborativelearning will help to avoid the situations ofone person working for the whole group.5. Co-operative learningThis is the learning in which the learnershelp one another. Those who have moreknowledge, experience and competency, willhelp others. By this exchange of resourcesthe learners developa plane of social system in learning also. Asthere are no high ups and low ones accordingto status among the learners they can ask thefellow students doubts and for helps withoutany hesitation or in hesitation Care should betaken not to lead this seeking of help tomechanical copying. It should be on the basisof actual needs. So even while encouragingthis exchange of ideas among the membersof the group cautions acceptance is to beobserved as a convention. There should be anunderstanding that satisfactory responsesshould come from each member and that theachievement of the group will be assessed onthe basis of the achievement of all themembers6 Zone of Proximal DevelopmentVygotsky observes that these is a stage ofachievement where a learner can reach byhimselfand another higher zone where he can reachwith the help of his teachers and peers andelders. Even though some can fulfil thelearning activity by themselves there is thepossibility of a higher excellence. Ifappropriate help is forth covering everylearner can better himself.7 ScaffoldingIt is natural that the learner may not beable to complete his work ifhe does not getsupport at the proper time. The learner mayrequire the help of the teacher in severallearning activities. Here helping means tomake the learner complete

11Vocational Higher Secondary School-11 Year (Theory)the activity taking responsibility by himself Theteacher has to keep in mind the objective ofenabling the learner to take the responsibility andto make it successful.8 Learning: a live mental processLearning is a cognitive process, only ateacher who has an awareness as to what thecognitive process is alone can arrangelearning situations to the learner to involvein it. Learning can be made effectively andintellectual sharpness can be improved bygiving opportunity for the cognitiveprocesses like reminding, recognisingcompromising, co- relating, comparing,guessing, summarising and so on. How iscognitive process considered in languagelearning? Take guessing and prediction forexample.Epitomisinginoneword.Giving titles and so on.Symbols, performance of charactersindications, lines of a poem, tables, pictures,concepts, actions, body language and suchthings can be given for interpretation.Process based language given forinterpretation. Process based languagelearning has to give prime importance to thecognitive process.9 Internal motivationGuessing the meaning ITom the context.Internal motivation is given moreimportance than external motivation. Theteacher has to arouse the internal motivationof the learner, A person internally motivatedlike this alone can immerse in learning andown its responsibility. How motivating iseach of the activities is to be assessed.Guessing the content ITom the heading.10 Multiple intelligencePredicting the end of the story.The Theory of Multiple Intelligence putforward by Howard Gardener has created aturning point in the field of education. TheNationalcmriculumdocumenthasrecommended that the curriculum is to bedesigned taking into consideration of thistheory.Guessing the incident, story from thepicture. and other such activities can beGuessing the facts from medications.given the following activities canbe given for the cognitiveprocess of summarisation. Preparation of blue print. Preparation of list. Preparation of flow chart.Main factorsintellect:ofthe1. Verbal/linguistic IntelligenceAbility to read and write, makinglinguistic creations, ability to lecturecompetence effective

12Textile Dyeing and Printinga communication, all these come under this.This can be developed by engaging inlanguage games and by teaching others.initiating the songs of musicians, listeningsilently to the rhythms and activities like thisare capable of developing this area ofintelligence.2. Logical/mathematical IntelligenceThinking rationally with causes and effectrelation and finding out patterns andrelations come under this area, finding outrelations and explaining things sequentialand arithmetical calculations are capable ofdeveloping this area of intelligence.3. Visual/spatial IntelligenceIn those who are able to visualise models andbringing what is in the imagination into visualform and in philosophers, designers andsculptors this area of intelligence is developed.The activities like modelling using clay and pulp,making of art equipments, sculpture, and givingillustrations to stories can help the developmentof this ability.6 Interpersonal IntelligenceThose in whom this area of intelligence isdeveloped show qualities of leadership andbehave with others in a noble manner. Theyare capable of understanding the thought ofothers and carrying on activities likediscussion successfully.7 Intrapersonal IntelligenceThis is the ability to understand oneself.These people can recognise their ownabilities and disabilities. Writing diariestruthfully and in an analysing way andassessing the ideas and activities of otherswill help developing this areas of intelligence4 Bodily Kinaesthetic Intelligence8 Naturalistic IntelligenceThe activities using body language comeunder this. This area of intelligence is moredeveloped in dancers and actors who are ableto express ideas through body movementsand in experts in sports, gymnastics etc.A great interest in the flora and fauna ofthe nature, love towards fellow beingsinterest in spiritual and natural factors will becapable of developing this area.5 Musical IntelligenceThe ability to see and distinguishours own existence as a part of the universe,ability to distinguish the meaning andmeaninglessness of life, the ability to realisethe ultimate nature of mental and physicalexistences, all these are theThis is an area of intelligence which ishighly developed in those who are able torecognise the different elements of music inmusicians and in those who can here andenjoy songs. Playing musical instruments,9. Existential Intelligence

13Vocational Higher Secondary School-11Year (Theory)Peculiarities of this faculty of intelligence.Emotional IntelligenceThe concept of emotional intelligence putforward by Daniel Golman was used in framingthe new curriculum. The fact that one'sEmotional Quotient (E.Q) is the greatest factoraffecting success in life is now widely accepted.The teacher who aims to focus on improving theemotional intelligence of students need toconcentrate on the following.differentopinions,Analyzing the shortcomings in methodsto Solve problems.learning and for which the learner can activelycontribute solutions need to be posed.Self criticism, evaluationAbility to face problem-situation in life.Thinking what one would do if placed inthe situation of others, how one wouldrespond to certain experiences of othersAll these foster the growth of emotionalintelligence.ideasandiv) Life skillspositions arise the students may be giventhe responsibility to reach a consensus.Life skills need to be given a prominent placein education. W.H.O. has listed ten skillsrequired for success in life. Imaging what would be the course of actionin some situtations, allowing to intervene ina healthy way in problems betweenindividuals.iii) Problem solving.Discussing socialproblems.premises can be given as a problem. Groupdiscussion will provide reasons and solutions.Problems which can influence classroomii) Ability to reach consensus. WhenSuggesting solutions through individual orgroup efforts.Whether plastic can be banned within schooli) Ability to take decisionsRather than imposing decision onstudents while planning and executingactivities, the students may be allowed totake part in the decision making process.Taking decisions through open discussion inthe class, inviting students suggestions oncommon problems etc. are habits to becultivated.Training in finding reasons for problems.Developing the idea that there is reason andsolution to any problem.Inter personal relations.CommunicationSelf-awarenessEmpathy

14T extile Critical thinking Creative thinking Decision making Problem SOlving Copying with emotion Copying with stress To develop the learner to identify anddevelop his own competencies. To develop vocational aptitude, workculture and attitude in the learner soas to provide useful products andservices to the society. To create an awarenss about mentaland physical health. To acquire awareness aboutdifferent job areas and to providebackgrounds for acquiring higherlevel training in subjects of interest. To develop possibilities of highereducation by creating awarenessaboutcommonentranceexaminations. To provide situation for theencouragement of creative thinkingand organising training programmesin each area, creative abilities andto develop artistic talents.The new curriculum addresses these areas.Knowing the characteristics of thelearner, role of the teacher and how to usethe teachers handbook help the teacher toplan and effectively implement learningactivitiesObjectives ofthe Vocational HigherSecondary Curriculum. To facilitate higher educationwhile giving opportunity to enterDyeing and Printingin the field of employment.Nature of ApproachTo d

government of kerala department of education scert --- 2006 class xii vocational higher secondar y teacher’s sourcebook state council of educational research & training (scert) vidyabhavan,

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