Plateexpectations Final Revise

plateexpectationsTripleplayA trio of pork ingredientsadds punch to a casualtheme makeover of awhite-tablecloth entreeMenu inspirationmore frequently on today’s menus—mul-comes from manytiple forms of a single protein in one dish.places, not theDanoit’s interpretation integrates a pre-least of which ismium bone-in pork chop with a mousse-stealing goodline of pureed tenderloin and prosciuttoideas from peers.(see recipe, opposite page).But adapting anFor the makeover, we conscriptedidea to the nuances of a particular con-Daniel Bendas and Dean Small, partnerscept or the realities of an individualwith Synergy, a California-based food andkitchen is tricky. The connection betweenrestaurant consulting firm. Their assign-a white-tablecloth creation and a casual-ment: Adapt Daniot’s recipe two ways—theme opportunity isn’t always obvious.one for an upscale, casual-theme chain (aThis is the first of a series of articles inwhich Plate will adapt an innovative dishla Cheesecake Factory); and another for acasual independent restaurant.to fit the needs of a broader foodserviceaudience.THE INSPIRATIONOur “inspiration piece” is an ale-braisedbone-in pork loin chop with spinach,prosciutto and smoked gouda mousselinecreated by Chef David Daniot for the 2002Taste of Elegance competition, sponsoredby the National Pork Board. Daniot, executive chef for the Edgewood CountryClub in Commerce Township, Mich. (seebio), capitalized on a trend appearing26plateTHE PORK ISSUECONSIDERATIONSSmall describes Synergy’s evaluation process as a matrix: “It’s all parts and piecesthat you have to take into consideration,”he says. “Part of it is culinary expertise—does the restaurant staff have skill setand disciplines in the back of the houseto execute? Sometimes just following therecipe is not enough. You have to havethe infrastructure in place.“We also look at what’s currently intheir inventory,” he continues. “You don’twant to bring in too many new products,so we look at what products already existthat they can work with.“You have to consider the equipmentpackage. What can they logistically execute? We also look at overall flow andhow the dish comes together on the line.What are the established ticket times? Isthis dish going to create a bottleneck?”“Finally,” Small says, “we look at the little things like food cost and prep time.”

DAVID DANIOTCertified executive chef,American Culinary FederationCurrent position: executive chef,National Pork Boardmenu maestroAle-braised bone-in pork loinchop with spinach, prosciuttoand smoked gouda mousselineDavid Daniot, executive chef, EdgewoodCountry Club, Commerce Township, Mich.Yield: 5 servingsEdgewood Country Club, CommerceTownship, Mich.MOUSSELINE FILLINGPrevious positions: executive chef, TheLean pork cubes1 1/2 lbVan Dyke Park Suite Hotel & ConferenceEggs2 eachCenter, Warren, Mich.; executive chef,Heavy cream10 ozGrosse Pointe Hunt Club, Grosse Pointe,Prosciutto ham, finely diced2 ozMich.; executive sous chef, Western Golf &Pork tenderloin, medium dice2 ozCountry Club, Redford Township, Mich.Chopped spinach, cooked1 1/2 ozSmoked gouda cheese, shredded 2 ozSalt, pepper, Worchestershire sauce to taste1. In a chilled food processor, blend the leanpork until very finely pureed. Add the eggs,blend, then add the cream and seasonings.2. Transfer filling to a bowl and fold inremaining ingredients. Keep cool at all times.Refrigerate, covered; reserve.FOR THE CHOPSBone-in center-cut12-oz pork chops5 eachOnion, rough cut1 eachCelery ribs, rough cut2 eachCarrots, peeled, rough cut2 eachBay leaves1 eachobservationsSalt and freshly ground pepper to tasteDark stout beer, 12-oz bottle1 each“Stuffed chops are a big idea right now,” Small says. “The idea of multiple forms ofPork stockas neededpork was good. We needed some flexibility to change what those items were, though.We thought it was important for those additional items to be value-added, so we integrated the sausage and played up the prosciutto.“Based on the original dish, the pork mousseline is not something that would fly inhigher-end casual theme restaurants,” Bendas adds. “So we made it more contemporary to hit on current trends—smoked bacon, crusted products, etc. Andouillesausages and cheeses are always popular.“Ale-braising doesn’t work for everybody,” Small says. “If you’re a microbrewery, itenables you to leverage your product. But if not, it’s probably not going to work andmight be too limiting. You’ve got to look at what your restaurant is known for and workthat into the development process.“Our concerns were that we wanted the dish to taste good and keep number ofingredients and steps down,” Small says. “The original was a bit of problem becauseappeared to be carved on the line, which means it has to be finished a la minute.That’s a problem for most operators with any type of volume, because it slows downthe line.”1. From the butcher, order chops with apocket. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a roundtip with the mousseline filling and pipe about3 ounces of the filling into each chop.2. In a hot skillet, sear the chops on bothsides. Place the chops in a roasting pan withthe onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, saltand pepper. Add the beer and enough porkstock to cover the chops half way.3. Cook at medium-high on range top heatuntil the chops reach an internal temperatureof 145 degrees F. Let chops rest for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, reduce the remaining liquidto 1/3, and strain for sauce.4. To serve: Drizzle each chop with reservedsauce. slice and fan chop. Plate with garlicmashed potatoes, cut carrots, and seasonalvegetables sauteed in pork stock.Menu price: 17.95; food cost/serving: 4THE PORK ISSUEplate27

plateexpectationsthe results All components can bepre-prepared, then finished“Our goal was to simplify the prep and plating so it could be finished at the time of service,”at the time of order, helpingBendas says. “In both cases, the sauces can be pre-made and the chops can be pre-stuffed,chain restaurants produceeven pre-browned. So the dish can be done within a reasonable ticket time and not have to bethe product without having toheld, which would hurt the quality of the final product.”hold products hot, causing a“Conceptually, I think these could work in a broad range of restaurants,” Bendas adds. “Theadaptation might come in the portioning, and manipulate your food costs from that perspective. A Houlihan’s or a Friday’s might not be able to make a 12-ounce portion cost-effective, somaybe they go with a 9- or 10-ounce portion.”Butterflied pork rib chop with andouille crustand bourbon apple sweet potato hashYield: 4 servingssurfaces, except the bone, are evenly anduniformly coated with the andouille crust.If not cooking immediately, refrigerate,covered; reserve.ANDOUILLE CRUST (15 OZ)Cajun andouille sausage12 ozPanko Japanese bread crumbs3 ozBlackened redfish seasoning1 TBS1. Cut the sausage into 3/4-inch to 1-inchpieces and place in food processor. Processsausage to a fine consistency.2. Add breadcrumbs and seasoning. Pulsefood processor to just blend ingredients andobtain a uniform, coarse, crumb texture.Refrigerate, covered; reserve.3. Pan-fry each chop in clarified butter orvegetable oil, starting with the butterfliedside down. Brown the first side, then turnand lightly brown each second side.4. Place the pan into a convection oven preheated to 350 degrees F. Bake until thechops are fully cooked, but still moist, about8 to 10 minutes.6 ozServing suggestion: Mound half a portion ofa bourbon sweet potato hash (recipe, p. 68)on the plate. Stand or rest chop on the hash.Spoon the remaining hash on the plate.Garnish with chives and serve with a medleyof grilled seasonal vegetables.Blackened redfish seasoning2 TBSMenu price: 12.95; food cost/serving: 4.27Paprika1 TBSGround black pepper2 1/4 tspGarlic salt2 3/4 tspSEASONED FLOUR (8 OZ)All-purpose flour1. Place all ingredients into a suitable bowland thoroughly blend together, withoutlumps. Reserve.TO PREPARE THE CHOPS10-oz pork rib chops4 eachSeasoned flour (recipe above)as neededBasic eggwashas neededAndouille crust (recipe above)as needed1. Using a sharp knife, French (trim all meatand fat) from the bone portion of each chop,above the eye. Butterfly each chop evenly, tothe bone, so the chop halves lay flat on awork surface.2. Bread each butterflied chop, flat, using astandard procedure (seasoned flour, eggwash, then andouille crust), so that all chop28plateTHE PORK ISSUEmenu maestrosDEAN SMALLCertified executive chef,Culinary Institute of AmericaCurrent position: principal partner, SynergyFoodservice ConsultantsPrevious positions: director of menu development, El Torrito restaurants; development team,Heartland Market.DANIEL BENDASCertified executive chef,Culinary Institute of AmericaCurrent position: principal partner, SynergyFoodservice ConsultantsPrevious positions: corporate regional chef,Houlihan’s; v.p. foodservice, Nanco Food Groupdeterioration in qualityover time.

The chops can be pre-cut Generally, while seeminglyby the supplier or done inmore complex in terms ofhouse, depending upon thenumber of recipes (includingoperator’s preference,the side dish), the executionoffering options with respectof the dish on the cook’s lineto product cost and in-houseduring the heat of battle iscapabilities.much easier, especially whenyou consider that the dish iscooked to order, rather thanheld hot until needed. While still using three porkproducts, the dish offers acontemporary option thattargets many current populardining trends: crusting thechop with the andouillecrumbs; the use of a colorful,popular accompaniment in thesweet potato hash (whichmay feature applewood- “Sweet potato hash is asmoked bacon, a very popularingredient that incorporatesbig side dish trend thesesmoking, a popular cookingdays,” Bendas says.technique).