Basic Cabinet Making Booklet - Synthmind
Introduction to Basic Cabinetmakingusing Pocket-Screw JoineryCopyright 2005 Mark Duginske
Table of ContentsWelcome Woodworkers!This booklet is designed to provide you with the basic fundamentals needed to create your owncustom cabinets for the home, shop or office. Although we’ve tried to make this booklet as comprehensive as possible, there are some areas that we felt were beyond the scope of this bookletand were skimmed over. Look for more detailed information on cabinetmaking from me in thenear future as I finish a cabinetmaking book. In addition, if you have any questions or suggestionsregarding the content of this booklet, feel free to contact me at markduginske@gmail.com.Sincerely,Mark DuginskeTABLE OF CONTENTSIntroduction to Cabinetmaking. 3-4Face Frames Explained. 5-6Hardware Recommendations. 7Kreg JoineryTM Fundamentals. 8-10Kreg JoineryTM Applications. 11-12Stock Preparation. 13-15Building a Single 15” CabinetCabinet Overview. 16-24Assembly. 25-26Adding a Countertop. 27-29Making the Drawer. 30-33Making the Door. 34-36Wall Cabinet Overview. 37-38About the Author. 39Pg. 2
Introduction to CabinetmakingCabinetmakingSimplifiedWALL CABINETSEvery year professional andamateur woodworkers buildthousands of cabinets. One ofthe biggest misconceptionsabout building cabinets is thatyou need a shop full of expensive machinery to achieveprofessional results. On thecontrary, cabinets are actuallyquite simple constructions thatwith a few well-designed toolscan be very easy to build.Kreg Jigs , invented in the late1980’s have changed the waymany woodworkers choose tobuild.This booklet is designed to actas a primer to get you startedin cabinetmaking. Rather thanoffering a lot of theory we striveto teach you cabinetmaking byexample.The simple example that wechose to build in this booklet is a 15” wide base cabinetwith one drawer and one door.This is a good place to startbecause it is full sized and yetsmall enough so one personcan build the whole thing without any help. Once you buildthis cabinet and learn the system you will be able to buildan entire kitchen. Using thissystem you will also be ableto build professional lookingbookcases, display cabinets,entertainment centers and justabout any other type of cabinet that you would like.3-A30”12”Panel DoorsFace Frame18”DrawerFront3-BCounter Top1-1/2”25”23-1/4”24”36” 34-1/2”CabinetSide30”4-1/2”20-1/4”Panel DoorsFace FrameBASE CABINETSPg. 3
Introduction to CabinetmakingDon’t expect the first cabinet youbuild to be perfect. There will besome mistakes and that is to beexpected. Try not to be too goaloriented or upset if you make amistake. That is how you learn. Werecommend that before you jumpinto building an entire kitchen, youshould build at least two samplecabinets as you will learn quite a lotfrom each experience.4-ATop Frame RailTop FrameBackTop Frame StileYou can use your sample cabinetsin your shop as a storage place, ora tool stand. The 15” wide samplecabinet detailed in this booklet is anexcellent size for use as a stand fora drill press, grinder or sharpeningstation. Please read through theentire text and study the drawingsbefore starting this project.DrawerFace Frame RailFace FrameCabinet SideDoorDoor Panel4-BFace Frame StileKick BoardExploded view of cabinet.Pg. 4
Face Frames ExplainedIntroduction to Face Frames5-ACabinet types are usually divided into two different construction methods: face frame andframeless. The 15” cabinet that we are making in this booklet is the face frame style whichmeans that there is a frame on the front of thecabinet as shown in Fig. 4-A. Using a face frameis the traditional way of making cabinets andcase furniture. The frameless cabinet styles area more recent European development that issometimes referred to as a Euro cabinet. Frameless cabinets, as the name suggests, don’thave a face frame and require relatively expensive equipment to manufacture because thereis little room for error. Face frame cabinets, likethe one shown in this booklet, are easier for thesmall shop or the hobbyist to build. The cabinetis essentially a box with a face frame attached tothe front of it. The face frame reinforces the boxand helps to keep it square. The doors are thenmounted to hang from the face frame. Becausethe face frame supports the box and keeps itsquare, the back of the cabinet can be made ofthinner materials such as 1/4” plywood or another man-made material. The back provides littlestructural support compared to the face framewhich is located on the front of the cabinet.StilesFrameWidthRailsFrameThicknessFace Frame FrontThe face frame is designed to extend past thecabinet carcase 1/4” on each side so when thecabinets are attached to each other, there is atight fit between the frames. The 1/4” of excessmaterial on each side also allows the cabinetside to be scribed to the wall if it is not straight.The face frame also serves to cover the edge ofthe materials used to make the box. Single cabinets are often joined together at the face frameto make multiple cabinets as the one shown inFig. 6-C. Another option is to make multiplecabinet compartments with one face frame.5-BDimensions of the Face FrameThe face frame is the widest part of the cabinet. It is 1/2” (1/4” on each side) wider thanthe cabinet carcase. Because the width ofthe face frame determines the width of thecabinet, it should be the first measurementdetermined when designing a cabinet. If thedistance between a refrigerator and a stove is15-1/2”, the cabinet should be designed witha 15” wide face frame. That would allow fora little space on each side of the cabinet. Fig.5-A and 5-B shows the front and the back ofthe typical face frame. The Pocket Holes arelocated in the backside of the cabinet and arenot visible from the front. The face frame stilesextend from the top of the cabinet to the bottom so end grain is not shown.Pocket Holesplaced on backsideof RailsFace Frame BackPg. 5
Face Frames ExplainedBuilding a cabinet is essentially a matter ofbuilding a box. Most of the joinery used tobuild the cabinet in this booklet features KregJoinery . Kreg Joinery is a relatively newtechnique in which an angled hole is drilledinto one workpiece only and then is joinedto the second workpiece using a specializedself-tapping wood screw. Kreg Joinery hasmany advantages compared to other woodjoinery techniques for a variety of reasons.Alignment is simplified with Kreg Joinery asonly one of the workpieces must be drilled prior to assembly. Assembly and clamping timeis decreased as you can connect one joint at atime and not need to wait for the glue to dry.This cabinet design has been simplified sothat it can be assembled from the absoluteleast number of parts. There are only eightparts, including the optional mounting rail.The two identical sides, floor and back aremade from manmade panel materials suchas plywood, medium density fiberboard orparticle board. The face frame and top frameare made from solid stock and are efficientlyassembled using Kreg Joinery . Complicated machining such as the use of dadosand rabbets, are avoided. Rather than usingindividual pieces of wood or triangular corner blocks that are an installed individually(which is time consuming and can be misaligned), this cabinet design employs a topframe.Top Frame6-ATop Frame StilesTop Frame RailsFaceFrameRailsFace FrameFace FrameStilesThe top frame is made of four pieces thatare pocket screwed together. Because it isa one-piece frame it is easily installed. Anoptional nail rail at the back of the cabinetallows the cabinet to be secured to the wallat the time of installation.To make sure that the cabinet sides areparallel to each other, the Top Frame andthe floor must be EXACTLY THE SAMEWIDTH. This is accomplished by firstjoining the frame together, then removingless than a 1/16th of an inch off the edgeof the frame by running it through a tablesaw. This will then give you the correcttablesaw setting to cut the floor EXACTLY identical to the top frame, which willresult in perfectly parallel cabinet sides.6-C6-BTop FrameFace FrameSingle face frame cabinetPg. 6Top FrameFace FrameFace frame cabinets set together
HardwareNote: We recommend that you acquireyour hardware BEFORE BUILDINGTHE CABINET and follow the manufacturers instructions completely. For the15” cabinet with overlay drawers builtin this booklet, we recommend thatyou use 22” drawer slides.Frameless cabinets are a recent European development that are sometimes referred to as Eurocabinets. The cabinet is essentially a box with noface frame. The sides, floor and solid top are usually made from 3/4” material. The design evolvedfrom new developments in cabinet hardware thatallow the doors to be mounted directly to the sideof the cabinet rather than the face frame, whichis traditionally the way it is done. Along with thedoor hinge hardware, Europeans also developedhardware for quickly installing the drawers. European hardware has become the standard in theindustry and designs have been developed so thatthe hardware can be used with the traditional faceframe. One huge advantage of the hardware is thedoor hinges are very easily adjusted for alignmentwith the turn of a screw.7-AStileDrawer SlideFig. 7-B shows the drawer slide hardware that weare using in the 15” cabinet. A bottom-mount drawer slide with a roller on the front is secured into thecabinet. The other part of the slide is screwed tothe bottom edge of the drawer. This hardware isdesigned to work with a drawer that is 1” narrowerthan the opening in the face frame.The two door hinges are located in two 35mm holesdrilled in the frame of the door. The door hingesare then screwed to the face frame edge. Fig. 7-Cshows a drill press setup for locating the hinge cupsthat uses the Kreg Trak and Stop components.HingeRailStudy the hardware and make samples of how itwill be used before you make the cabinet. It is agood idea to have one or two extra sets of hardware so you can make some sample pieces andkeep them.7-C7-BDrilling 35mm hole in door stile for hinges to fit into.Pg. 7
Kreg JoineryTM FundamentalsIntroduction toKreg Joinery Kreg Joinery is one of the easiest waysto assemble cabinets and many types offurniture. The joint is easy to make with theproper equipment. The concept is quitesimple. One of the boards is secured intoa Kreg Jig and the specialized step drillbit is used to drill an angled hole as shownin Fig. 8-A. A self-tapping screw is theninserted into the Pocket Hole formed by thedrill bit and the point of the screw is securedinto the mating workpiece, as shown in Fig.8-C. Although Pocket Hole technology hasbeen used in the furniture making industryfor years, two more recent inventions fromthe 1980’s, the Kreg Jig and the development of the self-tapping wood screw, havemade the technology available to all levelsof woodworkers.8-ADrilling a Pocket HoleDepth CollarKreg Jigs secure one workpiece in thedrilling position, as shown in the photos onpage 9. Holes are drilled at a 15 degree angle on the backside of the workpiece usinga special step drill bit with a depth collar sothat the drill bit does not penetrate the endof the board. There are a number of manual Kreg Jigs available as well as semiautomatic and fully-automatic machines ata variety of price levels that produce PocketHoles.Clamping PadStep Drill BitKreg Jig 8-BSide view of Pocket Hole drilled at15 degree angle into end of Rail.RailPocket Hole8-CStileSelf Tapping ScrewDriverCompleted joint after drivingself-tapping screw.RailPocket HolePg. 8
Kreg JoineryTM FundamentalsKreg Joinery Advantages9-AKreg Joinery is significantlyfaster than other wood joiningtechniques for a number of reasons. The use of a self-tappingscrew eliminates the need to predrill the mating work piece, whichavoids many alignment problemscaused by having to layout anddrill for aligning fasteners as withdowel, biscuits and mortise andtenon joints. The self-tappingscrew serves as an internalclamp that eliminates the needto clamp the joint as the gluedries. This saves the investmentin various clamping devices, thetime and frustration of clamping,as well as problems associatedwith pulling the assembly out ofsquare with clamping pressure.You can add additional workpieces to the assembly -- sand, routand even stain while the glue isstill drying. Pocket Hole projectscan be completed in hours ratherthan days.With Kreg Joinery , speciallydesigned clamps are used toalign the surfaces of the matingboards together while the screwsare being driven. Kreg Joinery is unique from other joinery methods because there is noneed to use multiple clamps forassembly as you assemble onejoint at a time. The self-tappingwood screws serve as an internalclamp that instantly bonds theworkpieces together, negatingthe time usually spent waiting forthe glue to dry.4-,OGO ON WHITE GRAYOR ANY LIGHTER SHADEWHEN PRINTING COLOR4,OGO ON WHITE GRAYOR ANY LIGHTER SHADEWHEN PRINTING COLOR4,OGO ON 0ANTONE OR ANY DARKERSHADE WHEN PRINTINGCOLOR4,OGO ON WHITEOR LIGHT SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALEKreg Jig Benchtop Unit4-,OGO ON BLACK ORDARK SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE4-4,OGO ON WHITE GRAYOR ANY LIGHTER SHADEWHEN PRINTING COLOR,OGO ON WHITE GRAYOR ANY LIGHTER SHADEWHEN PRINTING COLOR4-4-4,OGO ON 0ANTONE OR ANY DARKERSHADE WHEN PRINTINGCOLOR,OGO ON 0ANTONE OR ANY DARKERSHADE WHEN PRINTINGCOLOR,OGO ON 0ANTONE OR ANY DARKERSHADE WHEN PRINTINGCOLOR4-4-4,OGO ON WHITEOR LIGHT SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE,OGO ON WHITEOR LIGHT SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE,OGO ON WHITEOR LIGHT SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE4-4-9-B4-,OGO ON BLACK ORDARK SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE,OGO ON BLACK ORDARK SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE,OGO ON BLACK ORDARK SHADE WHENPRINTING GRAYSCALE9-CKreg Jig Portable Base9-DKreg Jig Jr.Pg. 9Kreg Jig Mini
Kreg JoineryTM FundamentalsAssembling PocketHole Joints10-AFig. 10-A shows a completedPocket Hole Joint and a FaceClamp used to hold the workpieces together as the screw isdriven into place. Images 10-C,10-D, and 10-E show three different types of clamping tools thatallow Pocket Hole Joints to bequickly assembled.Photo 10-C shows a portableFace Clamp in use that requiresthe joint to be assembled off theedge of the workbench. The FaceClamp has a large clamp padthat registers the faces of the mating boards so that they are in thesame plane resulting in minimalsanding being required.Photo 10-D shows a Right AngleClamp that is used to secureboards at a 90 degree angle. Thisclamp features a steel dowel pinon one end of the clamp that fitsdown into the Pocket Hole and aswiveling pad on the other end thatreaches around the opposite sideof the board to hold the workpieces firmly in place while the screwis driven into an adjacent PocketHole.The Bench Klamp shown in Photo 10-E works very similarly to theFace Clamp shown in Fig. 10-C,but is designed to be routed intothe top of a workbench. This allows you to rotate the frame aroundthe clamp and assemble one jointat a time as it lays perfectly flat onthe workbench.Joint LineFace SideLarge Clamp PadFace Frame Clamp10-BFine Thread for HardwoodsType-17Self-Tapping TipCoarse Thread for Softwoods10-CKreg Premium Face Clamp - Item# PFC10-DKreg Right Angle Clamp - Item# RACPg. 1010-EKreg Bench Klamp - Item# KBK
Kreg JoineryTM ApplicationsPocket Hole Applicationsin Cabinetmaking11-ACabinet construction is the one ofthe most popular applications forPocket Hole technology. There arethree basic Pocket Hole orientations used to build the 15” cabinetdiscussed in this booklet.Top FrameThe end-to-edge application isused for making the joints in thetop frame and face frame as shownin Fig. 11-B.Face FrameThe panel-to-panel application isused to secure the floor of the cabinet to the sides as shown in Fig.11-C.11-BThe end-to-face application is usedfor attaching the face frame to thecabinet side as shown in Fig. 11-D.11-C11-DFloor11-B11-C11-DPanelFaceEdgeEndRail to StilePanelPanel to PanelPg. 11EndPanel to Face Frame
Kreg JoineryTM Applications12-APocket Holes are normally placed onthe backside or underside of a project where they are hidden from view.With a little design ingenuity thereare few situations in which a PocketHole needs to be visible from the frontof the cabinet. The drawings on thispage help to illustrate the placementof Pocket Holes on the backside andunderside of the 15” cabinet design.Note that Pocket Holes placed on thecabinet sides can usually be hiddenagainst another cabinet side, a wall, oran appliance.Nail RailSelecting the Correct ScrewDrawer SlideSpacerIt is important with Kreg Joinery touse a self-tapping wood screw. Ordinary drywall or hardware store typescrews are not self-tapping and willtend to split the wood. First, choose thecorrect screw length, which dependson the thickness of the wood, the setting of your Kreg Jig and the depthat which you drill the Pocket Hole.When joining 3/4” to 3/4” stock, whichis what we are doing with our cabinet,a 1-1/4” screw length is standard. I useKreg Self-tapping Pocket Hole screwswhich are specially designed for KregJoinery . They feature a type-17 selftapping auger point that eliminates predrilling and a washer head that seatsflush in the bottom of the Pocket Hole.These screws have a deep #2 squaredrive recess, which provides a verypositive fit when driving the screw.It is also important to use a screwthread appropriate for the hardnessof the material being joined (see Fig.10-B). A fine-thread screw is usedany time you’re driving the screw intoa hardwood (i.e., oak, maple, walnut,cherry, hickory, etc).SideFloorKick Board12-BPocket Holes inbackside of Nail RailThe coarse thread screw has a largerthread diameter and provides greaterholding power when driving a screwinto soft material such as plywood, particle board, MDF, melamine, and pine.12-CPocket Holesplaced in bottomside of floorSidePocket HolesPg. 12
Stock PreparationFirst Things FirstSuccessful results of any woodworking project depends on theaccuracy of stock preparation. Any errors during this step compound as the project progresses. This critical process involvesmuch more than just cutting up the pieces for your project. Theinitial step in stock preparation is planning. Plans and shop drawings will help you to visualize the finished project.Make a cutting list, which is a detailed account of the size andnumber of the parts required. To begin, inspect the wood. Lookfor flaws, warp, checks, splits or other defects that may provedangerous. When inspecting the wood, observe grain patternsand color. It is a good practice to buy 25% more material thanyou need. There is always some waste, but remember that themore material you have, the easier it is to make choices.Preparing Stock forYour ProjectFirst, check your machine set-ups. Is your jointer fence, tablesaw, and miter saw square and cutting accurately? Are yourjointer and planer knives sharp and adjusted correctly? Secondly, choose your lumber wisely. Lumber is usually availablein three forms. The more the wood has been processed thehigher the price. Rough lumber has not been processed sinceit was cut at the sawmill. It has a rough surface and is usuallyslightly warped. Surfaced lumber has been planed so that bothfaces of the board are parallel to each other and have a smoothplaned surface. This is also known as “surfaced two sides” or“S2S.” “Surfaced four sides” (“S4S”) means that the board hasbeen planed and the edges are square and parallel to each other. Plywood, particleboard and melamine sheets are the moststable materials available to the woodworker. The S4S (surfaced four sides) boards and man-made materials are the most13-Aconvenient. The drawback, of course, is that you have to pay ahigher price for these finished boards. Many woodworkers withwell-equipped shops prefer to surface rough lumber into the S4Smaterial.“Layout” is the term for the process of selecting and marking thestock required for the cutting lists. The boards are usually sortedby size and color. The widest and the longest boards should beused for drawer fronts. Ideally, the drawers fronts should all becut from the same board and mounted consecutively with thegrain creating a continuous flow. Door panel material shouldalso be chosen with care.A board that is 4 ft. long is the most manageable to machine.If the finished pieces will be short, leave as long as possibleand crosscut them to length last. The key to layout successis to plan ahead so that you can maximize the use of yourlumber and your time. Every situation is different and requiresa different solution. Jointing and planing may release tensionin the board and expose the interior of the board to the environment, which may have a different moisture content. Thefresh surfaces may either release or absorb moisture, and theboard may distort slightly.Many experienced woodworkers allow the wood moisturecontent to equalize by partially processing the wood and thenallowing it to stabilize for a couple of weeks in the shop before the final machining. The wood is cut and planed slightlyoversize and then stacked with shims between each board.Stacking the boards in this way allows air to circulate betweenthe boards so that they have the same moisture content asthe air in the shop. After the boards stabilize, they are jointedand planed again to remove any warp that developed.13-BTop TrakSupport Wing DetailSwing Stop 2.25”Back BoardPocket Hole ScrewsTable BoxMiter Saw with Kreg Trak and Stop System on Support WingsHeight ofMiter Saw
Stock PreparationCutting to lengthAfter the boards have been surfaced on all four sides, the laststage is to crosscut the piecesto the desired length. Before youstart cutting up your pile of wood,make sure that you have newlysharpened saw blades on yourmachines. Cutting the two endssquare and to the desired lengthis a two-step process. The initialstep is to cut one end square andthe second step is to cut the opposite end square and to the required length. I use my tablesawand the miter gauge to crosscutanything that is less than 20inches long and the radial-armsaw or miter saw for wood longerthan 20 inches. If more than oneboard is to be cut to the samelength, use a stop for accuracyand repeatability. The ideal stopwould be there when needed butalso allow multiple set-ups. Theanswer for the small shop is thereasonably priced Kreg PrecisionTrak and Stop System (Fig. 13-A).14-ARadial Arm Saw with Kreg Trak and Stop System14-BChoose the Right Sawfor the JobFig. 13-A and 13-B show aneasy way to make auxiliary support wings for your miter saw withtrak mounted for the stops. Fig.14-A shows the Kreg stops on theradial arm saw. The miter saw isusually more accurate than a radial arm saw. The Trak and Stopscan be mounted on either side ofthe saw. The curved design of theSwing StopTM allows a board tobypass the stop by simply slidingthe board into the stop, therebylifting it out of the way. Pieces ofmultiple lengths can be cut to theprecise length without ever touching a stop. For cutting short pieces less than 20 inches long, I usethe miter gauge on the tablesawwith the same Kreg Swing StopTMas shown in Fig. 14-B.Tablesaw with Kreg Precision Miter GaugePg. 14
Stock PreparationBuilding aCrosscut Sled15-AAlthough the miter saw and thetablesaw miter gauge are greatfor accurate crosscuts, they arenot ideal for cutting sheet materials used in the cabinetmaking process. The Kreg Trak andStop System can also be usedto build jigs and fixtures.The shop- made crosscut sledshown in Fig. 15-A and 15-B isone of the most useful jigs thatyou can make for your shop.The plywood platform shouldbe made of high quality material. The back fence supportingthe Kreg Top Trak should be 21/4” higher than the table. TheKreg Top Trak is screwed on topof the fence board which is secured to the plywood platformwith screws. You only need touse one 30” piece of Kreg Jigand Fixture Bar for the bottomof the sled. The sled bottomshould be 25” wide so that youcan cut a piece of plywood inhalf as shown in Fig. 15-A.Back FenceTop TrakPlywoodSwing StopTMKreg Jig andFixture BarPlywood SledPlatform15-BTop TrakSwing StopTMBack FencePlywood SledPlatformKreg Jig andFixture BarPg. 15
Building a 15” Base Cabinet15” Cabinet Overview16-AOver the years, a lot has beenwritten about cabinetmaking andthe best systems for making kitchen cabinets. Unfortunately, somecabinet designs are not practicalfor a small shop or use materialsthat are not readily available to thesmall shop or individual hobbyist.When I first started making cabinets, I doweled the face framewhich was much faster than themortise and tenon joint that my father and grandfather used. WhenI first saw the Kreg Jig at awoodworking show in Minneapolis, it took about ten seconds forme to figure out that I needed thistool.This one small device has mademore difference that any othertool in my shop. It has helped tomake my woodworking a lot fasterand easier, the quality of my workhas also improved. The cabinetdesign shown in this booklet hasevolved over the years. In thisdesign, I’m using modern technology such as Kreg Joinery andEuropean hardware to produce astronger cabinet in less time.Wall CabinetPanel DoorsFace Frame30”12”16-B18”Base Cabinet1-1/2”25”Counter TopDrawer Front23-1/4”24”36”34-1/2”Panel Doors30”4-1/2”20-1/4”Pg. 16Face Frame
Building a 15” Base CabinetSimple Design Yet Ready for Production!In this cabinet design, I create two simpleframes with Kreg Joinery that serve as areference point for the rest of the cabinet.The standard face frame and also a “topframe” which stabilizes the top of the cabinet.It makes the assembly of the cabinet a snap,and I think that it is a better overall product.It is especially easy for one person workingalone to assemble.I’ve used this design in cabinetmaking classesand now have students, some of whom havenever done any woodworking, finish complete cabinets in two days. That includes resaw and bookmatching the door panel. Thisbooklet is designed to systematically presentthe information needed to build a high-quality,professional cabinet that can be easily replicated to build an entire kitchen. With thatsaid, let’s get started. I’m sure you’ll enjoythe simplicity and speed of this constructionprocess.17-ATop Frame RailTop FrameBackTop Frame StileNail RailFace Frame RailsPlacement of the Pocket HolesBefore you start, the placement of PocketHoles in the side panels is important to planout in advance. If the side panel is to be exposed to the room, you’ll want to position thePocket Holes on the inside face of the paneland plug them if necessary. If the side panelwill be against a house wall or another cabinet, the Pocket Holes should be placed onthe outside face, as it won’t be visible. If theside panel will be against an appliance andtrim will be used to hide the side panel, placethe Pocket Holes on the outside face.The 15” sample cabinet illustrated in thisbooklet is the face frame style, which meansthat there is a frame on the front of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 17-A. The cabinet is essentially a box with a face frame attached tothe front of it. The frame reinforces the boxand keeps it square. The frame is designedto be 1/2” wider than the cabinet so the whenthe cabinets are attached to each other thereis a tight fit between the frames. This cabinet design also has a top frame which keepsthe tops of the sides in place and makes thecabinet easier to assemble. The two framesare made from solid stock and are quickly assembled using Kreg Joinery .Face FrameCabinet SideFace Frame StileFloorToe Kick SpacePg. 17Kick Board
Building a 15” Base CabinetCabinet PartsOverviewFig. 18-A is an exploded viewof the cabinet. The sides aresecured to the floor and thetop frame before the backand front face frames are attached to the box unit. Withthis design, complicated machining and the use of dadosand rabbets can be avoided.Also avoided with the use ofa top frame are filler pieces orangle brackets, which requiretedious positioning and installation.One of the questions to be answered when making a cabinet is how will the countertopbe attached to the cabinet?Another often asked questionrelating to this issue is how doyou keep the cabinet sidesparallel to each other? In thepast, individual corner blockshave been used to squarethe cabinet top and provide aplace for securing the counter to the top of the cabinet.An alternative to the cornerblocks is a filler piece called a“stretcher” which is the widthof the floor and keeps thesides parallel.Rather than using triangularcorner blocks which are installed individually this cabinet design employs a topframe. The top frame is madeof four face frame pieces thatare Pocket Screwed together.It provides the spacing function of the stretcher and thesquaring function of the triangular blocks. Because it is aone piece frame, it is easily installed when aligned with thetop of the cabinet.Top Frame Stile18-ATo
aligned), this cabinet design employs a top frame. The top frame is made of four pieces that are pocket screwed together. Because it is a one-piece frame it is easily installed. An optional nail rail at the back of the cabinet allows the cabinet to be secured to the wall at the time
cabinet file extractors to ensure that cabinet files are not inadvertently mixed. This value has no meaning in a cabinet file that is not in a set. iCabinet: Specifies the sequential number of this cabinet in a multicabinet set. The first cabinet has iCabinet 0. This field, along with the setID field, is used by cabinet file extractors to .
Build The Cabinet Carcass Drill 3/4” pocket holes into each end of the cabinet bottom. Also drill 3/4” pocket holes into the top edge of the cabinet sides. Mark 3” up on each of the cabinet side pieces. Place the cabinet bottom at the
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MRH 810 Guitar Amplifier Cabinet MODE 1 - Cabinet: you can choose between 5 selected cabinet emulation 1 - Based on Marshall* 1960 4x12 cabinet with Celestion* G12T-75W speakers 2 - Based on Marshall* 1960 4x12 cabinet with Celestion* G12T-25W speakers 3 - Based on Mesa Boogie* Rectifier 4x12 cabinet with Celestion* Vintage 30 spe
KITCHEN CABINET CUSTOM DEPTH&CABINET TYPES Available on standard cabinet types in depth increments and decrements. Base cabinets with drawers that are customized from 15" to 24" deep will include working drawers. CABINET TYPE CUSTOM DEPTH Wall Cabinets 12" increase 3"- 6"- 9"-12" CABINET TYPE CUSTOM DEPTH
Cabinet Rail/Stile Cabinet Opening Example: (cabinet opening shown above): If your cabinet opening is 15" wide by 27" high and you use a ½" overlay hinge (industry standard), add 1" to both the width and height measurements The door size required to cover the cabinet opening would be 16" x 28". This cabinet door would overlay the face
Door Door Door Fully Adjustable Shelves Side View Top View Door Door Door 12" Wall Cabinets Side View Base Cabinet Top View Base Cabinet Flush Drawer Door Base/Vanity Cabinets Tall Cabinets 84" & 90" have 3 shelves, 96" has 4 shelves Upper doors align with 30", 36", and 42" wall cabinet Integrated Toe Kick CABINET DIMENSIONS
Hacker/Sommers, A Writer’s Reference, 7th ed. (Boston: Bedford, 2011) Slide 2 of 11 Sample MLA Research Paper Summary and long quotation are each introduced with a signal phrase naming the author. Long quotation is set off from the text; quotation marks are omitted. Page number is given in parentheses after the final period. Marginal annotations indicate MLA-style formatting and effective .
