Introduction To Cabinetmaking
Introduction to CabinetmakingCabinetmakingSimplifiedWALL CABINETSEvery year professional andamateur woodworkers buildthousands of cabinets. One ofthe biggest misconceptionsabout building cabinets is thatyou need a shop full of expensive machinery to achieveprofessional results. On thecontrary, cabinets are actuallyquite simple constructions thatwith a few well-designed toolscan be very easy to build.Kreg Jigs , invented in the late1980’s have changed the waymany woodworkers choose tobuild.This booklet is designed to actas a primer to get you startedin cabinetmaking. Rather thanoffering a lot of theory we striveto teach you cabinetmaking byexample.The simple example that wechose to build in this booklet is a 15” wide base cabinetwith one drawer and one door.This is a good place to startbecause it is full sized and yetsmall enough so one personcan build the whole thing without any help. Once you buildthis cabinet and learn the system you will be able to buildan entire kitchen. Using thissystem you will also be ableto build professional lookingbookcases, display cabinets,entertainment centers and justabout any other type of cabinet that you would like.3-A30”12”Panel DoorsFace Frame18”DrawerFront3-BCounter Top1-1/2”25”23-1/4”24”36” 34-1/2”CabinetSide30”4-1/2”20-1/4”Panel DoorsFace FrameBASE CABINETSPg. 3
Introduction to CabinetmakingDon’t expect the first cabinet youbuild to be perfect. There will besome mistakes and that is to beexpected. Try not to be too goaloriented or upset if you make amistake. That is how you learn. Werecommend that before you jumpinto building an entire kitchen, youshould build at least two samplecabinets as you will learn quite a lotfrom each experience.4-ATop Frame RailTop FrameBackTop Frame StileYou can use your sample cabinetsin your shop as a storage place, ora tool stand. The 15” wide samplecabinet detailed in this booklet is anexcellent size for use as a stand fora drill press, grinder or sharpeningstation. Please read through theentire text and study the drawingsbefore starting this project.DrawerFace Frame RailFace FrameCabinet SideDoorDoor Panel4-BFace Frame StileKick BoardExploded view of cabinet.Pg. 4
Face Frames ExplainedIntroduction to Face Frames5-ACabinet types are usually divided into two different construction methods: face frame andframeless. The 15” cabinet that we are making in this booklet is the face frame style whichmeans that there is a frame on the front of thecabinet as shown in Fig. 4-A. Using a face frameis the traditional way of making cabinets andcase furniture. The frameless cabinet styles area more recent European development that issometimes referred to as a Euro cabinet. Frameless cabinets, as the name suggests, don’thave a face frame and require relatively expensive equipment to manufacture because thereis little room for error. Face frame cabinets, likethe one shown in this booklet, are easier for thesmall shop or the hobbyist to build. The cabinetis essentially a box with a face frame attached tothe front of it. The face frame reinforces the boxand helps to keep it square. The doors are thenmounted to hang from the face frame. Becausethe face frame supports the box and keeps itsquare, the back of the cabinet can be made ofthinner materials such as 1/4” plywood or another man-made material. The back provides littlestructural support compared to the face framewhich is located on the front of the cabinet.StilesFrameWidthRailsFrameThicknessFace Frame FrontThe face frame is designed to extend past thecabinet carcase 1/4” on each side so when thecabinets are attached to each other, there is atight fit between the frames. The 1/4” of excessmaterial on each side also allows the cabinetside to be scribed to the wall if it is not straight.The face frame also serves to cover the edge ofthe materials used to make the box. Single cabinets are often joined together at the face frameto make multiple cabinets as the one shown inFig. 6-C. Another option is to make multiplecabinet compartments with one face frame.5-BDimensions of the Face FrameThe face frame is the widest part of the cabinet. It is 1/2” (1/4” on each side) wider thanthe cabinet carcase. Because the width ofthe face frame determines the width of thecabinet, it should be the first measurementdetermined when designing a cabinet. If thedistance between a refrigerator and a stove is15-1/2”, the cabinet should be designed witha 15” wide face frame. That would allow fora little space on each side of the cabinet. Fig.5-A and 5-B shows the front and the back ofthe typical face frame. The Pocket Holes arelocated in the backside of the cabinet and arenot visible from the front. The face frame stilesextend from the top of the cabinet to the bottom so end grain is not shown.Pocket Holesplaced on backsideof RailsFace Frame BackPg. 5
Face Frames ExplainedBuilding a cabinet is essentially a matter ofbuilding a box. Most of the joinery used tobuild the cabinet in this booklet features KregJoinery . Kreg Joinery is a relatively newtechnique in which an angled hole is drilledinto one workpiece only and then is joinedto the second workpiece using a specializedself-tapping wood screw. Kreg Joinery hasmany advantages compared to other woodjoinery techniques for a variety of reasons.Alignment is simplified with Kreg Joinery asonly one of the workpieces must be drilled prior to assembly. Assembly and clamping timeis decreased as you can connect one joint at atime and not need to wait for the glue to dry.This cabinet design has been simplified sothat it can be assembled from the absoluteleast number of parts. There are only eightparts, including the optional mounting rail.The two identical sides, floor and back aremade from manmade panel materials suchas plywood, medium density fiberboard orparticle board. The face frame and top frameare made from solid stock and are efficientlyassembled using Kreg Joinery . Complicated machining such as the use of dadosand rabbets, are avoided. Rather than usingindividual pieces of wood or triangular corner blocks that are an installed individually(which is time consuming and can be misaligned), this cabinet design employs a topframe.Top Frame6-ATop Frame StilesTop Frame RailsFaceFrameRailsFace FrameFace FrameStilesThe top frame is made of four pieces thatare pocket screwed together. Because it isa one-piece frame it is easily installed. Anoptional nail rail at the back of the cabinetallows the cabinet to be secured to the wallat the time of installation.To make sure that the cabinet sides areparallel to each other, the Top Frame andthe floor must be EXACTLY THE SAMEWIDTH. This is accomplished by firstjoining the frame together, then removingless than a 1/16th of an inch off the edgeof the frame by running it through a tablesaw. This will then give you the correcttablesaw setting to cut the floor EXACTLY identical to the top frame, which willresult in perfectly parallel cabinet sides.6-C6-BTop FrameFace FrameSingle face frame cabinetPg. 6Top FrameFace FrameFace frame cabinets set together
Building a 15” Base CabinetSimple Design Yet Ready for Production!In this cabinet design, I create two simpleframes with Kreg Joinery that serve as areference point for the rest of the cabinet.The standard face frame and also a “topframe” which stabilizes the top of the cabinet.It makes the assembly of the cabinet a snap,and I think that it is a better overall product.It is especially easy for one person workingalone to assemble.I’ve used this design in cabinetmaking classesand now have students, some of whom havenever done any woodworking, finish complete cabinets in two days. That includes resaw and bookmatching the door panel. Thisbooklet is designed to systematically presentthe information needed to build a high-quality,professional cabinet that can be easily replicated to build an entire kitchen. With thatsaid, let’s get started. I’m sure you’ll enjoythe simplicity and speed of this constructionprocess.17-ATop Frame RailTop FrameBackTop Frame StileNail RailFace Frame RailsPlacement of the Pocket HolesBefore you start, the placement of PocketHoles in the side panels is important to planout in advance. If the side panel is to be exposed to the room, you’ll want to position thePocket Holes on the inside face of the paneland plug them if necessary. If the side panelwill be against a house wall or another cabinet, the Pocket Holes should be placed onthe outside face, as it won’t be visible. If theside panel will be against an appliance andtrim will be used to hide the side panel, placethe Pocket Holes on the outside face.The 15” sample cabinet illustrated in thisbooklet is the face frame style, which meansthat there is a frame on the front of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 17-A. The cabinet is essentially a box with a face frame attached tothe front of it. The frame reinforces the boxand keeps it square. The frame is designedto be 1/2” wider than the cabinet so the whenthe cabinets are attached to each other thereis a tight fit between the frames. This cabinet design also has a top frame which keepsthe tops of the sides in place and makes thecabinet easier to assemble. The two framesare made from solid stock and are quickly assembled using Kreg Joinery .Face FrameCabinet SideFace Frame StileFloorToe Kick SpacePg. 17Kick Board
Building a 15” Base CabinetCabinet PartsOverviewFig. 18-A is an exploded viewof the cabinet. The sides aresecured to the floor and thetop frame before the backand front face frames are attached to the box unit. Withthis design, complicated machining and the use of dadosand rabbets can be avoided.Also avoided with the use ofa top frame are filler pieces orangle brackets, which requiretedious positioning and installation.One of the questions to be answered when making a cabinet is how will the countertopbe attached to the cabinet?Another often asked questionrelating to this issue is how doyou keep the cabinet sidesparallel to each other? In thepast, individual corner blockshave been used to squarethe cabinet top and provide aplace for securing the counter to the top of the cabinet.An alternative to the cornerblocks is a filler piece called a“stretcher” which is the widthof the floor and keeps thesides parallel.Rather than using triangularcorner blocks which are installed individually this cabinet design employs a topframe. The top frame is madeof four face frame pieces thatare Pocket Screwed together.It provides the spacing function of the stretcher and thesquaring function of the triangular blocks. Because it is aone piece frame, it is easily installed when aligned with thetop of the cabinet.Top Frame Stile18-ATop FrameRailNail RailFaceFrameStileBackDrawer SlideHardwareSideSideDoorHingesFloorKick BoardToe Kick SpacePg. 18Face FrameRail
Building a 15” Base Cabinet19-ATop of CabinetBack1-1/2”10”1-1/2”19-CFront of Cabinet19-BNail Rail15”Side of �14-1/2”Pg. 19
Building a 15” Base Cabinet20-ACutlist DiagramTop Frame StilesTop Frame RailsNail RailBackSideSideFloorFaceFrameRailsKick BoardFaceFrameStilesCutlist Parts IdentificationThe parts identified on this page correspond with the cutlist on thefollowing page. Please reference dimensions from the list to sizeparts correctly prior to assembly.Pg. 20
Building a 15” Base CabinetStandard parts are always the same regardless of the width of the cabinet. These items can be made at one time andstockpiled for ease of processing when building a set of cabinets.Standard Parts Cut List for 15” Wall Cabinet:Part NameQty. Thickness WidthLengthSide23/4”23-1/4” 34-1/2”Top frame stile23/4”1-1/2”23”Face frame stile 23/4”1-1/2”30”Door frame stile 23/4”2”21-1/2”Drawer sides1/2”4”21-1/2”2Note:Note: There is a cut out for the kick board that is 4-1/2” high and3” wide. There is also an optional rabbet in the side panel that is1/4” deep and 3/8” wide to accept the back panel.Non-standard parts change in size (width or length) depending on the width of the cabinet (15”,18”, 21”, etc.). Theseparts include the floor, face frame rails, top frame rails, back, door frame rails, drawer rails, drawer fronts, nail rail,and kick board. The rule listed to the right of each component makes it very easy to re-calculate the dimensions forvarious sized cabinets.Non-Standard Parts Cut List for 15” Base Cabinet:Part NameQty. Thickness WidthLengthRule:Floor13/4”13”23”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 2”Top frame rail23/4”1-1/2”10”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 5”Face frame rail33/4”1-1/2”12”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 3”Back panel11/4”13-1/2”29-1/2”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 1-1/2”Door frame rail 23/4”2”9” PlusThe door frame rail is 9” for the 15” cabinet plus the lengthof the stub tenon or the length of the tenon on the cope and stick joint.The door panel should be sized AFTER the door frame is completed.Drawer front rail 21/2”4”10”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 5” Note: The drawer bottompanel should be sized AFTER the drawer box is completed.Drawer back rail 21/2”3-1/4”10”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 5” Note: The drawer bottompanel should be sized AFTER the drawer box is completed.Drawer front13/4”6”13”Drawer front to be same width as door.Nail rail13/4”5”13”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 2”Kick board13/4”4”14-1/2”Width of cabinet (15”) minus 1/2”.Pg. 21
Building a 15” Base CabinetAbout Standard PartsStandard parts shown shadedgray in Fig. 22-A are always thesame size because they do notchange with different cabinetwidths (ie. 15”, 18”, 21”). Because these parts are not custom pieces, they can be madein quantity and “stockpiled”.The sides, face frame stilesand top frame stiles are standard parts and are always thesame no matter what the widthof the cabinet may be.22-AStandard PartsTopFrameStilesStandard PartsSidesFaceFrameStilesPg. 22
Building a 15” Base CabinetNon-Standard PartsNonstandard parts, which areshown shaded gray in Fig. 23-A,are the parts that determine thewidth of the cabinet. They are different lengths depending on thecabinet sizes. The bottom, back,kickboard, nail rail, and framerails change in size as the cabinetchanges in size.To make sure that the cabinetsides are parallel to each otherthe top frame and the floor mustbe EXACTLY THE SAME WIDTH.This is accomplished by using thesame tablesaw rip fence settingto cut a hair off the width of thetop frame and then cut the floor tothe same width.23-ANon-Standard PartsNail RailTop Frame RailsNon-Standard PartsFaceFrameRailsKick BoardPg. 23Floor
Building a 15” Base CabinetGENERAL CABINETBUILDING SUGGESTIONS24-ABuilding cabinets efficiently can best be accomplished by following the simple steps below.Step 1: Make one complete cabinet at atime (with the exception of thecountertop). We recommendbeginning with a base cabinetthat doesn’t span a cornerbecause these are the simplest.These types of cabinets are thefocus of this booklet.Step 2: Once all the cases are made,drawers and doors can be madeand finished.Step 3: Door and drawer hardwareshould be installed.Face FrameStep 4: Attach backs.Step 5: Install cabinets.Step 6: Countertops constructed andinstalled. Important! It will beeasier to install your wallcabinets if you haven’t installedthe base cabinets.FloorTop FrameTop Frame and Floor are ripped to the exact same width onthe tablesaw to achieve perfectly parallel cabinet sides.Pg. 24
Making the DrawerAfter the doors are made, installed and aligned, the nexttask is to attach the drawerfronts. Carefully measure thewidth of the door and cut thedrawer face to that width. Makea spacer that will rest on top ofthe door. With the drawer boxin the cabinet, place the drawerfront on top of the spacer. Rollthe drawer box out and use acouple of clamps to secure thedrawer front to the drawer box.Drive a screw from inside thebox through the drawer box andinto the drawer front.33-AWe like to use the SPS-F1 (1”)or SPS-F125 (1-1/4”) screwsbecause the self-tapping tipseliminate pre-drilling. Keep inmind that if you’ve used a 1/2”material for the drawer box and3/4” material for the drawer front,a 1-1/4” screw is too long.DrawerFront33-BWidth of Face Frame OpeningWidth of Drawer Box1/2” Gap requiredfor hardware tofunction correctly.Pg. 33
Making the DoorCabinet doors are made in many different styles. Most cabinetdoors are made with the frame and panel design because itis a good way of making a wide door without the expansionand contraction problems of solid wood. The style of the doordetermines the hardware design that can be used to mountit. If the door fits inside the face frame, it is called an “inset”door and requires the appropriate hardware. Furniture often ismade with inset doors. Cabinets are usually made with overlay doors which are wider than the face frame opening. Thefirst consideration should be whether you want overlay or insetstyle doors.If you choose overlay doors, the next decision is how muchoverlay you want. Traditional cabinets typically use a 1/2” overlay, meaning the door covers a 1/2” of the face frame on allsides. Usually the overlay door is one inch wider and one inchlonger than the face frame opening. The 15” sample cabinetdoor opening in the face frame is 20-1/2” by 12”. The doorwill be made to be 21-1/2” by 13”.The amount of overlay isdetermined by the hinge design. There are many choices inhardware and the details of the choices available are beyondthe scope of this booklet. Magazines, books, catalogs, homecenters and home shows are good sources of information.and the side stiles (vertical members). The side stiles run thelength of the door and cover the end grain of the horizontalrails. There are two options for making the door frames, whichare shown in Fig. 34-A and 34-B on page 34. The easiest option is the stub tenon, which is made with standard woodworking equipment such as a dado blade or a slot cutter router bit.The door stiles and rails are 2” inches wide by 3/4” of an inchthick. A 1/2” deep dado that is 1/4” wide is made on the insideof both the rail and the stile pieces. The dado on the insideof the door is the space in which the door panel is located.The stub tenon, which is 1/2” by 1/4”, is the same size as thedado and is glued in the dado after the door panel is fitted tothe door frame. The stub tenon has a number of advantages.It is fairly easy to make and doesn’t require the purchase ofspecial equipment such as a matching set of router or shapercutters. The simple design compliments just about any styleof décor and is especially at home with the very popular Artsand Crafts designs. If you use the stub tenon, remember toadd the 1” measurement (1/2” on each side) to the door rail.The rail for the 13” wide door should be 10” long.There are many considerations when choosing hardware.Concealed hinges provide a more contemporary look and aretypically used with solid, composite laminate or flat panel doorsin either an overlay or inset style. All things being equal, overlaydoors are easier to make and install because, with inset doors,the openings and the doors must be perfectly square.Concealed European style cup hinges typically mount into a35mm (diameter) hole bored 1/2” deep into the door, requiringa 35mm forstner bit used in a drill press. If you don’t have a drillpress, there are some jigs available through catalogs, whichmake a portable drill work like a drill press.For the 15” sample cabinet that we are making in this booklet,we are using an overlay door that is one inch longer and oneinch wider than the face frame opening. We are using two European style cup hinges for the door which are placed in 35mmholes in the door frames.The standard for mounting door hardware is to mount the centerline of the hinge 3” in from the topand bottom of the door. If the hinge provides a 1/2” overlay,then the centerline of the hinge should be mounted to the faceframe 2-1/2” below where the stile meets the rail.Stub Tenon Door34-A1/2”1/4” DadoStubTenon3/4”2”1/2” by 1/4” Dado1/2”A huge advantage of the European style cup hinge is the adjustability factor. These hinges have screws that allow thedoor to be adjusted up or down or in and out which allows forsquaring, leveling and alignment with the other doors in a setof cabinets.After deciding on the door design and what kind of hinges youwill use, you are ready to make the door. The door that weare making for the 15” cabinet is a simple panel door. Theframe is made of the top and bottom rail (horizontal members)Pg. 34RailStile
Making the DoorCope and Stick DoorsA more complicated door design is the rail and stile shownin Fig. 35-A. An interlockingjoint called the cope and stickjoint is produced by eitherusing router table cutters orshaper cutters. This joint requires making a series of cutswith two different cutters andprecisely adjusting the set-upfor a perfect fit. For the beginning woodworker, this task canbe intimidating due to the complex nature of the required fit.However, cope and stick doorsof professional quality are easily produced once you havemastered the techniques.Cope and stick doors require alearning curve which requiresstudy and practice. Like manywoodworking joints, they areeasily produced once youhave the correct set-up anddevelop the technique. If youdecide to use the cope andstick joint, practice making thejoint and carefully measurethe rail length for the 13” widesample cabinet door. Afterthe door is complete, drill theholes for mounting the European style cup hinges. The 2door hinges are located in two35mm holes drilled 1/2” deepin the door stile. The doorhinges are screwed to the faceframe edge. Drill the 35mmholes 3” from the end of thecabinet. Use a drill press withtwo stops, as shown in photo35-B.Cope and Stick Door35-ACopeStickDadoRailStile35-BDrilling 35mm holes in door stile for hinge cups.Pg.35
Making the Door2”Cope and StickDoor DimensionsTop View1/4”3/4”13”Side ViewFront ”13”Pg. 36
Wall CabinetsBuilding a 15”Wall CabinetWall cabinets mount on the wallabove the base cabinets and areusually the same width as thebase cabinet, as shown in Fig. 37A. The depth of the cabinet is usually 12”. When the wall cabinet islocated above an appliance, suchas a 30” wide stove the cabinetshould be 30” wide. The standardheight wall cabinet is 30” high andis designed to be used with a roomsoffit, which is box in the top cornerof the ceiling and wall junction thatis the same material as the wall.The soffit is usually a framed boxthat is secured to the corner ofthe room where the wall and ceiling meet. It is often covered withthe wall material that is used in therest of the room, which is usuallydrywall. The finished dimension(frame plus drywall thickness) ofthe soffit is usually 12” height and14” wide.Thus, the finished soffit extendspast the top of the wall cabinet 2”which gives it a pleasing professional ing on the height of theceiling and the size of the soffit, the distance between the wallcabinet and the countertop is usually 16 to 20”.In recent years, kitchens are frequently designed without soffitsand, in some cases, the cabinetgoes all the way up to the ceiling.A kitchen may have wall cabinetsof varying heights to accommodateappliances such as stove hoods orwall mounted microwaves. To accommodate different kitchen designs (soffit or no soffit), appliancesizes, wall height variations, etc,commercially made wall cabinetsare available in heights rangingfrom 9” to 48” in 3” increments.Obviously, the huge advantage ofa custom made cabinet is that itcan be designed and made for aspecific space.15”Pg. 37
Wall CabinetsMost wall cabinets are designedwith mechanisms for shelf heightadjustment. The standard is the useof multiple holes with shelf supportson which the shelf rest. Another option is the use of a front and backtrack with adjustable shelf supports.Get the adjustable shelf hardwarebefore planning and building thecabinet.Compared to the base cabinet, thewall cabinet is a lot easier to build. Itis smaller and has less pieces, plusit doesn’t have a drawer. The faceframe is a simple rectangle made ofthe standard 1-1/2” by 3/4” material.After the parts are cut to size usingthe wall cabinet cut list, assemblethe parts in a similar manner as thebottom cabinet as described in the“assembly” section of this booklet. Make a spacer for measuringthe distance between the floor andthe bottom edge of the face frame.A 3/4” spacer will secure the floorflush with the top edge of the faceframe rail. Another option is to usea 5/8” spacer so that the bottom is1/8” lower than the top edge of theface frame.The Pocket Holes on the top shouldbe located on the front and sides ofthe top. They should be oriented sothat the pocket holes are exposedon the top of the cabinet so, whenyou open the cabinet door, you don’tsee any Pocket Holes. For mostwall cabinets, the Pocket Holesshould be oriented on the bottom ofthe cabinet so when you open thedoor Pocket Holes are not visible.The one exception to having theholes on the bottom of the cabinet,is the wall cabinet above the sinkwhere the bottom of the cabinet isvisible. Plugs can be used to coverpocket holes in situations wherethey may be visible.As with the bottom cabinet, orientthe Pocket Hole screws so they arenot visible from the outside of thecabinet.38-ATopNail RailSideBackSideDoorFloorFace Frame RailFace Frame Stile15” Wall Cabinet Cut List:Part ”Face frame rail23/4”1-1/2”12”Face frame 13/4”13”11”Back11/4”13-1/2”29-1/2”Nail Rail13/4”13”4”Pg. 38
In this cabinet design, I create two simple frames with Kreg Joinery that serve as a reference point for the rest of the cabinet. The standard face frame and also a “top frame” which stabilizes the top of the cabinet. It makes the assembly of the cabinet
: FURN CABINET I C REDITS: 1 L EVEL: L1 CIP C ODE: 48.0702 P REREQUISITE: None CTSO: SkillsUSA C OURSE D ESCRIPTION This course will introduce the beginning furniture and cabinetmaking student to the various stages of construction and assembly of wood products and related materials. T
of a cabinet or piece of furniture. 3.1.6 Identify the elements of kitchen floor plans. APPROACHES STANDARD Discuss the importance of function and form for furniture and cabinetmaking. Identify alternative designs with convenience and flexibility. Explain the decision-
Graduates may find employment in furniture making and cabinetmaking, furniture repair refinishing and restoration, kitchen and commercial cabinetry, as well as boatbuilding and refitting. Other career options may include job estimating, sales of furniture, tools, hardware and machinery. Gra
9 SELF-STUDY SUMMARY REPORT Program Information Program Name: Residential Construction and Cabinetmaking Team Chair: Chris Harder / Scott Theilig Academic Dean: Mike Boyle Divisional
1701 Install a wall cabinet. Revised October 2018 6. High School Graduation Years 2020, 2021 and 2022 Cabinetmaking & Millwork CIP 48.0703 r Task Grid Proficiency Level Achieved: (X) Indicates Competency Achieved to Industry Proficiency Level 1702 Install a
work/products (Beading, Candles, Carving, Food Products, Soap, Weaving, etc.) ⃝I understand that if my work contains Indigenous visual representation that it is a reflection of the Indigenous culture of my native region. ⃝To the best of my knowledge, my work/products fall within Craft Council standards and expectations with respect to
Productions Cabinet Making Certificate of Completion (83 credits) previously listed as 79 credits . Required Courses: Quarter 1 ARWC101 Introduction to Cabinetmaking 3 . ARWC102 Safety Pri
Journal of Herbal Pharmacotherapy Boehm K, Büssing A, Ostermann T. Aromatherapy as an adjuvant treatment in cancer care: a descriptive systematic review. Eur J Integr Med. 2012; 4-1:129 Buckle J. (1998). Clinical aromatherapy and touch: Complementary therapies for nursing practice. Critical Care Nurse. 18 (5) : 54 Buckle J. (2014). Clinical Aromatherapy in Healthcare. London, England .
