D Sailing Course Materials
SAILING COURSE MATERIALSOVERVIEWINTRODUCTIONThe NCSC has an unusual ownership arrangement -- almost unique in the USA. Yousail a boat jointly owned by all members of the club. The club thus has an interest in how yousail. We don't want you to crack up our boats. The club is also concerned about your safety.We have a good reputation as competent, safe sailors. We don't want you to spoil that record.Before we started this training course we had many incidents. Some examples:Ran aground in New Jersey. Stuck in the mud.Another grounding; broke the tiller.Two boats collided under the bridge. One demasted.Boats often stalled in foul current, and had to be towed in.Since we started the course the number of incidents has been significantly reduced.SAILING COURSE ARRANGEMENTThis is only an elementary course in sailing. There is much to learn. We give youenough so that you can sail safely near New Castle. Sailing instruction is also provided duringthe sailing season on Saturdays and Sundays without appointment and in the week byappointment. This instruction is done by skippers who have agreed to be available at thesetimes to instruct any unkeyed member who desires instruction.CHECK-OUT PROCEDUREWhen you "check-out" we give you a key to the sail house, and you are then free tosail at any time. No reservation is needed. But you must know how to sail before you get thatkey. We start with a written examination, open book, that you take at home. When you havesubmitted an acceptable paper, you may check-out on the river with a member of the SailingCommittee.The open-book exam should be easy -- if you have attended classes, studied thelessons, covered the reading assignments and sailed enough.NOMENCLATUREWe have a new vocabulary that you have to learn. You must at least talk like a sailor:Parts of the boat -- see model sloop, Maneuvers, and Commands needed -- so the skipper canexplain what he intends to do, and the crew will know what is expected of them. Chapters 2-5give some vocabulary. See also the glossary at the end of the book.STOWAGEEverything must be in its place if the boat is to be orderly and safe. You cannot meetan emergency if your boat is cluttered with gear, lines, pop bottles, life jackets, etc. Whenyou finish with something, e.g., the whisker pole, put it away in its place. Keep everything inits place, always the same place so that you can find it in a hurry. Note where you find things,and remember to return gear to those same places. The handbook includes a stowage chart(Page 5.1).Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010
TIDE AND CURRENT TABLESNew Castle is an excellent place to sail, except for one element -- a strong current. You mustlearn to cope with it. It can be done. Tide is the vertical rise and fall of the water level causedby changes in gravitational attraction between the earth, moon and sun. The term is frequentlymisused. The tidal current is the horizontal flow of water from one point to another, resultingfrom different tidal heights (or depths).Both tide and current are important to us. The depth of water, or movement of tide,varies about five feet at New Castle. The current ranges from zero to about 3 mph. A smallboat sometimes cannot sail at 3 mph. When that happens, you must avoid having the currentcarry you away from the mooring. It is imperative that in light airs you first try to sail againstthe current to see whether you can make headway against it. If you cannot, go back to themooring immediately. Paddle or sail back close to shore, where the current is weakest. Thereis an exception: Sometimes you can sail with the current in anticipation of an early turn in thecurrent, which will then return you to the mooring. Otherwise, unless you are quite confidentthat you have enough wind to sail against the current, you should invariably sail upstream onthe ebb tide, and downstream on the flood. That is, against the current in each instance. Thenif the wind drops, the current will bring you home.HOW TO USE TIDE TABLESYou will find a tide table on the notice board in the sail house, and in a cutty on eachboat. A copy is sent out each spring to be inserted in Section 1 of your handbook. Tide tablesgive the times of high and low tides at New Castle.USE OF CURRENT TABLESThe current tables give the current in knots abreast of New Castle. Positive valuesindicate flood (current flowing north) and negative values indicate ebb (current flowingsouth).Note that the times of high and low tide do not coincide with slack current. Slackcurrent is usually about an hour behind the tide change.Note also that, for about half an hour before slack current to about half an hour after,there will be practically no current.Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010
CHARTSA chart is a map for navigators and other mariners. It is very different from your usualland map or road map. Note the following:1. The ship channel is indicated by dashed lines, between which there is deep water for deepdraft vessels.2. The small figures are soundings (depths) in feet at mean low water -- about as shallow as itever gets at that point. High tide will add about 5 ft. to these soundings.3. Buoys are indicated by a dot and a diamond. A larger purple dot with a diamond indicatesa lighted buoy.4. The three R's: Red, Right, Returning.5. Ships returning to port are favored on charts and by navigation aids.6. Ranges enable pilots to know when they are in the channel. Most ranges are for incomingships:DeepwaterNew CastleBulkhead BarReedy IslandBakerListon --Liston point is where the river legally becomes the bay.7. Landmarks on shore are indicated, e.g., belfry, tank.8. Distinguishing characteristics of lights are shown:R"2D" This marks a red buoy, identified Qk.Fl. Red as 2D, meaning the second buoy onBellthat range (Deepwater). It has a light and a bell. The light flashes quickly. The bellsoundswhen waves from a passing vessel rock the buoy.9. Fathom lines, similar to contour lines. A fathom is 6 feet. The one-fathom line has "6" atintervals, the two-fathom line has "12", and so on. Inside the one-fathom line near the time oflow tide, be wary of running aground. The chart should be useful to you in telling you whereyou are on the river, how deep the water is ahead, where the channel is, and where the oceangoing vessels (the big ships) will pass. Each of our boats has a section of the chart rolled up ina tube along with the tide tables.
TACKING, REACHING, RUNNING AND JIBINGNow, finally, we come to the technique of sailing. How do we make the boat go? Theway the boat goes to windward, i.e. sails up-wind, is the ultimate test of the skipper and theboat. We will discuss the technique of sailing, and how the skipper and crew maneuver theboat, rudder, and sails in the several points of sailing -- tacking, reaching, running, comingabout and jibing.TackingTacking is sailing up-wind, zigzagging on alternate tacks.Port tack -- wind comes over the port side.Starboard tack -- wind comes over the starboard side.Tacking involves a common technique. All sloops from the tiny sailing dinghy to themagnificent craft that race for the America's Cup follow the same procedure.Sail as close to the wind as you can -- that is where you want to go. The sails will flutter whenyou sail too close. Since this flutter begins at the luff -the forward edge of the sail this iscalled luffing the sail or pinching. The Jib luffs first.When too far off the wind you lose ground, and do not advance rapidly to windward. Seekthe point between too far off the wind, and luffing too close to the wind. Then you will gainmost forward motion, without being retarded by sailing too close to the wind, or luffing.Usually the wind shifts direction frequently. Watch the tell-tales, the strips of yarn tied to theshrouds, that fly in the wind and show its direction. The mast-head fly also helps. A goodsailor will take advantage of every shift.LuffingAny time you turn the boat into the wind you are luffing. This term causes confusion since itis also used to describe the situation where the front portion of a sail is fluttering as a result ofsailing too tight on the wind for the current trim of the sail.Coming aboutThe change from one tack to the other is called coming about -- port tack to starboard, or viceversa.Since your boat will lose speed as it comes into the wind, be sure you have momentum("way"), but in a high wind, wait for a lull.Then command “Ready about.” Probably short for “Are you read to come about?” or thedirective “Make ready to come about.”Every member of the crew should reply; “Ready about,”1. to tell the skipper that he heard and understood the command, and2. to tell him he is ready to come about and do his part with the jib. If he is not ready totend the Jib, he should say so then; otherwise, he uncleats the Jib sheet and holds it in hishand.Skipper then says, “Hard-a-lee,” and without waiting for a response from the crew pushes thetiller hard to the lee side of the boat. Give the tiller a hard push, fast in the beginning of the
stroke. This will make the rudder actually push against the water and help to get the boat tocome around.How do you get around the tiller? One way is to stand up and pass the tiller behind you.Another way is to turn your back forward and go around, but this is not as good because youhave to take your eyes off the sail.Crew should let the jib flutter over. Do not pull the jib over quickly for it will hinder theboat's turning through the eye of the wind. When boat is past this point as it turns, pull insheet on other tack. Cleat it down quickly before the full force of the wind hits it. Nicetiming needed! Skipper meanwhile is watching for mainsail to fill on other tack. When thathappens, if it does, he or she adjusts course to sail as close to wind as possible and stillmaintain drive of the boat.In IronsYou may miss and get stuck in irons. Boat will not catch wind on either side. Soon you willbe making stern way (going backward). Remember you must reverse the tiller.Big difference out in the river is that often you cannot tell whether you are moving forward oraft. Look for bubbles going by. If none there, and usually there aren’t, try to make some witha splash of your hand. This is often a real hassle. Backing jib helps. Don't PinchNatural inclination is to sail too close to the wind. Boat will not sail well, you will lose speedand drive. You lose more than you gain by pinching.Sail By the WindThis is difficult concept for most new sailors. Don't try to sail for a point on shore or for abuoy, or to round the ice fenders. Instead, sail where the wind will let you sail. If you can'tmake the mark, or round the buoy, you just have to take another tack. You might as well bephilosophical about it. Sailing can be either frustrating or relaxing. It is pretty much in yourstate of mind.Wind will “head you.” It shifts over so that you are sailing directly into the wind. You luff.When you luff, bear off. Wind can shift in the other direction. When it does, “head up,”closer to the wind. Tell-tales will help you decide where the wind is, plus the way you heelover. Get all you can out of the wind. Try always to work up to windward.Lay the MarkIn racing you will hear the expression, “lay the mark.” It means if we tack now, can we laythe mark? i.e., get around the mark (buoy marking a turn in the race). 45 off wind on onetack, plus 45 off on other tack add up to 90 , so when you are abeam of the mark, you shouldbe able to “fetch the mark.” This gives you an idea of when to tack, or come about. You musttake the current into your calculations also.Two ways to parry a hard gust of wind.The gust, if strong enough, may heel the boat over, and perhaps even capsize it, if not parried.1. Head up closer to the wind. This lessens force of wind on sails.2. Let out the mainsheet. This spills wind from the sail. “Ease the sheet.” Don't ease thesheet unless you have to, because it usually slows you down. In a hard puff you may have todo so. Be sure crew is ready to ease the jib sheet on command. A stationary boat is moreeasily knocked down.
ReachingSailing with the wind from abeam to off the quarter. Your objective or destination is notdirectly to windward.1. Close reach: wind coming from between 45 and 90 degrees2. Beam reach: wind coming from abeam (90 degrees)3. Broad reach: wind coming off the quarter (more than 90 degrees, but not directlybehind)Now you can sail toward a particular spot on shore, or for a buoy. An easy way to sail. Fast.Not much heel. Don't get careless. The wind can shift. Tend the sail and adjust when needed.RunningWind coming from directly behind; seemingly an easy way to sail. But beware of accidentaljibe.Stopper knot in the mainsheet needed now.Watch tell-tales closely. Almost constantly.If wind gets into dangerous position - same side as mainsail, you may have to jibe.Pitch pole.When the boat flips end for end with the stern of the boat coming over the bow. This is quiterare but can be quite dangerous and can result in severe damage to boat and crew. Generally itis caused by running at high speed down wind with spinnaker set and having the crew weighttoo far forward. This results in the bow burying in the water and flipping the boat. To guardagainst this, move crew aft. Skipper should be aft already. If she insists on burying her nose,come around more into the wind, i.e. closer to the wind. If wind is too strong to jibe, comeabout.Planing - skimming across the surface of the water with the hull lifting out of the water sothat only a fraction of the hull is submerged.JibingYou may be running, or simply decide to change your course. Command “prepare to jibe,”haul in some on the mainsheet, command “Jibe ho,” push the tiller away from the side theboom is on (this brings the stern of the boat through the wind). When the stern passes throughthe wind, the wind will push the boom across the boat (usually very fast). As soon as thishappens steer back in the direction from which you came a little bit to compensate for theboat’s tendency to head up into the wind (this is referred to as an “S” gybe). Do not over steeror you could swamp the boat.Some new skippers get confused and come about when they meant to jibe, and vice versa.When wind catches sail on other side, let out sheet fast. Make sure sheet does not tangle, anddon't get it tangled around your feet. It's easy to capsize in a jibe if not done properly. Crewmust be nimble and get over from one side to other at just right moment. Pass tiller behindyou or straddle it. If wind hits too hard, come on around into wind a bit.At first don't try to execute a jibe and keep your boat pointing at a particular point on shore,forget about the shore for a moment, sail by the wind. After mainsail has come over, jibe iscompleted, and boat is sailing safely, THEN see where you are and set your course. In a raceit is different. There you must keep track of where you are.
Why Jibe?Various situations where it is a good maneuver:1. Wind may shift when you are running. Forced to jibe.2. You may start to run on one tack and find you must change your course.3. Rounding buoys in triangular race, you usually have to jibe at least once.4. When changing your course, you may have choice of coming about or jibing. A jibe isfaster.It may be dangerous in a high wind. If so, come about instead.5. With man overboard, a jibe is fastest way to turn around and pick up a sailor in the water.Copyright New Castle Sailing Club 2010DUTIES OF CREW ON ANY POINT OF SAILING
l. Look out ahead and warn skipper of anything in the way. He or she may not be able to seearound the sails.2. Tell skipper of approaching boat, e.g. ship coming in the channel, power cruiser coming upfrom behind. Learn to indicate location of objects by parts of your boat: “Two points offstarboard bow.” “Power cruiser off the port quarter.” (Behind the skipper)3. Hike out, which keeps the boat balanced and gives more drive. Imperative in a race. Anacrobatic sport, learn to get back in when the wind eases. Hike far out in a gust. Keep boaton even keel if possible. If crew does not do this without being told, skipper should tell them.Telling them once should be enough.4. In light air crew may have to move to center of boat, even sit on lee side. Do this withoutbeing told. Crew should be sensitive to trim of boat. Fore and aft trim is important also, butharder to reckon with. Skipper should sit on aft end of seat. Not on transom or on deck, noron lee side unless air is very light. Crew sits next to skipper. This will help to get proper foreand aft trim.5. When sailing with a Fisherman's reef (jib sheeted in tight, main most of the way out), crewshould hold Jib sheet in hand ready to ease jib in a puff, because boat will not head up intowind otherwise.6. Crew should spring into action without being told when boat goes aground (center boardpops up). Haul up board quickly.7. Keep time in a race.8. Tidy up the boat. Bail. Hand skipper anything he wants.9. Consult the chart. Help with piloting. (Distinguish between piloting and navigation.)Watch for changes in weather. Check on leeway or drift and inform the skipper.10. Respect the skipper's word. They are in command of the ship. What they say goes. Don'targue. Do it, and argue later. - Exception would be a novice sailor at the helm. Instructorshould sit beside them, and be ready to take over the helm or the mainsheet or both quickly, ifthey do something wrong.“Bristol Fashion”1. Leave boat shipshape. Wipe out the sand. Often more honored in the breach than in theobservance. Remember, the log tells who had the boat last.2. Bail out the water in the bilge.3. Instructor should tell you how to rig the boat and "put it to bed."4. As you pull away in the dinghy, look back to see if everything is in order. Checkmooring lines.We had a boat chafe through a mooring line, break loose, and land down at therefinery with a hole bashed in its side. All because it was moored improperly.
5. If any repair is needed, do it. If you can't complete repair, note on blackboard insail house what is missing. Get materials, report damage to boat captain.6. If short a batten or a crank, tie one on to sail bag in sail house.7. Sign the log when you come ashore, giving time of return.
WEATHER - HOW TO ESTIMATE WIND VELOCITYI. INTRODUCTIONA discussion of wind observations to be made before sailing.This is not weather forecasting. Instead we simply cover the indications of wind and weatherthat will help us decide whether or not to sail.Although many days are suitable for sailing, we unfortunately have to emphasize storms andother dangers. But there are many more good days than bad.II. WHEN AND WHERE TO OBSERVE THE WIND?Start at home when you decide whether to sail. Continue observing during your drive to themoorings. Also while your sailing.Call for weather reports close to the time that you leave to go sailing. Hourly forecasts(including wind) can be found at Accuweather.comIII. WHAT IS TOO LITTLE OR TOO MUCH WIND?Some people feel we need 10 mph to sail against the current, with not more than 15-17 mphsafe for beginners in small boats such as Thistles and Flying Scots. Skillful sailors can handlehigher winds. Boats over 20 feet thrive on winds of 20-25 mph.Nothing is certain about the wind; direction and speed can change.IV. FREQUENT WIND PATTERNSA. After midnight to early morning - little or no wind.B. Dawn - often a flat calm.C. Dawn to 10am - picks up slowly (by 10am there's enough to sail)D. Mid-afternoon - strongest wind of the day.E. 3pm DST - wind begins to slacken.F. Nightfall - steadily drops to nearly zero again.*** But don't always count on this. Pattern often does not hold.V. WHAT TO WATCH TO ESTIMATE WIND SPEEDA. Trees - good but very difficult to read.B. Clouds - not very helpful.C. Flags - really excellent indicators.D. Smoke from smokestacks - also excellent.E. Surface of water - Best indicator of all.*** None of these ar
1. The ship channel is indicated by dashed lines, between which there is deep water for deep-draft vessels. 2. The small figures are soundings (depths) in feet at mean low water -- about as shallow as it ever gets at that point. High tide will add about 5 ft. to these soundings. 3. Buoys are indicated by a dot and a diamond.
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