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Surface Science and Adhesionin Cosmetics

Scrivener Publishing100 Cummings Center, Suite 541JBeverly, MA 01915-6106Adhesion and Adhesives: Fundamental and Applied AspectsThe topics to be covered include, but not limited to, basic and theoretical aspectsof adhesion; modeling of adhesion phenomena; mechanisms of adhesion; surfaceand interfacial analysis and characterization; unraveling of events at interfaces;characterization of interphases; adhesion of thin films and coatings; adhesionaspects in reinforced composites; formation, characterization and durability ofadhesive joints; surface preparation methods; polymer surface modification;biological adhesion; particle adhesion; adhesion of metallized plastics; adhesion ofdiamond-like films; adhesion promoters; contact angle, wettability and adhesion;superhydrophobicity and superhydrophilicity. With regards to adhesives, the Serieswill include, but not limited to, green adhesives; novel and high-performanceadhesives; and medical adhesive applications.Series Editor: Dr. K.L. MittalP.O. Box 1280, Hopewell Junction, NY 12533, USAEmail: RAAreviews@gmail.comPublishers at ScrivenerMartin Scrivener (martin@scrivenerpublishing.com)Phillip Carmical (pcarmical@scrivenerpublishing.com)

Surface Science and Adhesionin CosmeticsEdited byK.L. Mittal and H.S. Bui

This edition first published 2021 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, USAand Scrivener Publishing LLC, 100 Cummings Center, Suite 541J, Beverly, MA 01915, USA 2021 Scrivener Publishing LLCFor more information about Scrivener publications please visit www.scrivenerpublishing.com.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, except as permitted by law. Advice on how to obtain permission to reuse material from this titleis available at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.Wiley Global Headquarters111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, USAFor details of our global editorial offices, customer services, and more information about Wiley products visit us at www.wiley.com.Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of WarrantyWhile the publisher and authors have used their best efforts in preparing this work, they make no rep resentations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work andspecifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation any implied warranties of merchant- ability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representa tives, written sales materials, or promotional statements for this work. The fact that an organization,website, or product is referred to in this work as a citation and/or potential source of further informa tion does not mean that the publisher and authors endorse the information or services the organiza tion, website, or product may provide or recommendations it may make. This work is sold with theunderstanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering professional services. The advice andstrategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a specialistwhere appropriate. Neither the publisher nor authors shall be liable for any loss of profit or any othercommercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.Further, readers should be aware that websites listed in this work may have changed or disappearedbetween when this work was written and when it is read.Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataISBN 978-1-119-65482-7Cover image: Pixabay.ComCover design by Russell RichardsonSet in size of 11pt and Minion Pro by Manila Typesetting Company, Makati, PhilippinesPrinted in the USA10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

ContentsPrefacePart 1: General Topics12Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods forLong-Wear LipsticksRebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao1.1 Introduction1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties1.2.1 Lip Anatomy and Biophysical Properties1.2.2 Surface Properties of the Lips1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks1.3.1 Stability Testing of Lipstick Formulations1.3.2 Physical Properties of Lipstick Formulations1.3.2.1 Lipstick Hardness and Deposition1.3.2.2 Lipstick Wear Assays1.3.2.3 Lipstick Cohesion Test1.3.2.4 Tack Testing1.3.2.5 Thermal Analysis of Lipsticks1.3.3 Visual Properties of Lipstick Formulations1.3.3.1 Transfer Resistance Test1.3.3.2 Gloss Measurement1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing1.5 SummaryAcknowledgementsReferencesEffect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its DepositMomoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui2.1 Introduction2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Propertiesand Potential 29353538v

vi Contents2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures2.3.1 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Wax Type2.3.1.1 Non-Natural Waxes2.3.1.2 Natural Waxes2.3.2 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Oil Polarity2.3.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Oil Viscosity2.3.4 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures: Cooling Rate2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System ContainingPolyethylene Wax2.4.1 Materials2.4.2 Measurements2.4.2.1 Oil Viscosity2.4.2.2 Oil Polarity by Relative Permittivity2.4.2.3 Hardness of Lipsticks2.4.2.4 Amount and Thickness of Lipstick Depositon Bioskin2.4.2.5 Wax Crystallization Study2.4.2.6 Morphology of Wax Structure by SEM2.5 Results and Discussion2.5.1 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Oil Viscosity2.5.2 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Oil Polarity2.5.3 Factors Affecting Lipstick Structure: Wax Amount2.5.4 Influence of Wax-Oil Lipstick Structureon its Deposition and Sensorial Perception2.6 SummaryAcknowledgementReferences3UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED)and Fluorescent (FL) Light SourcesMichael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser3.1 Introduction3.2 UV Cure Chemistry3.2.1 Initiation Reaction3.2.2 Propagation Reaction3.2.3 Chain Transfer Reaction3.2.4 Termination Reaction3.2.5 Photoinitiation3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-DopedLow-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbsand Light Emitting Diodes 6868737374747475757576

Contents 44UV Light SpectrumMatching the PI with the UV Light Sourceand Pigments Absorption/TransmissionUV Cure Oxygen Inhibition IssuesSpecial Considerations for the Use of UV Nail GelTechnology Due to Oxygen Inhibition3.5.1 UV Nail Gel Cure Units: GA-FL and LED3.5.2 UV Cure and Free Radical Oxygen Inhibition3.5.3 Methods for Mitigating Oxygen Inhibition DuringUV Cure3.5.4 Combinatorial Chemistry Technique Used toMitigate Oxygen Inhibition for Low Energy UV-ACure Resulting in Tack-Free SurfacesHow to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel3.6.1 Formulating with (Meth) Acrylate Monomers3.6.2 Formulating with the Proper PhotoinitiatorFormulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV CureOligomers and Monomers3.7.1 Formulation of a UV Nail Gel Using a UV CurePolyurethane Dispersion (UV-PUD)3.7.2 Bio-Based UV Cured Nail Gel MaterialsHuman Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy PropertiesAdhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail PlateRemoval of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail PlateAlternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution toRemedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus)UV Cured Nail Gel SafetyProspects on UV Nail GelsSummaryAcknowledgementsReferencesRheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Applicationand Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer FormulationsLeidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez,Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma4.1 Introduction4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail 105105106109110113116120

viii Contents4.4.1 Shear Rheology Characterization and Tack Test4.4.2 Application of Nail Paints: Brush Loading, Sagging,Nail Coating, and Dispensing4.4.3 Extensional Rheology Characterization usingDripping-onto-Substrate (DoS) Rheometry4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes4.6 Results and Discussion4.6.1 Shear Rheology of Twelve Nail Polishes4.6.2 Brush Loading and Sagging4.6.3 Brush Application4.6.4 Tack Test of Nail Lacquers4.6.5 Dripping Nail Polish after Automated Brush Loading4.6.6 Capillarity-Driven Pinching Dynamics andExtensional Rheology of Nail Polishes4.7 Summary and ConclusionsAcknowledgementsReferences5Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting CosmeticsAmar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk5.1 Introduction5.2 Adhesion to Skin5.2.1 Skin as a Substrate for Adhesion5.2.1.1 Structure of Human Skin5.2.1.2 Skin Surface Physicochemical Properties5.2.1.3 Skin Mechanical Properties5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics5.3.1 Silicones in Cosmetic Products5.3.2 Structure-Property Relation of Silicones5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics5.4.1 Silicone MQ Resins in Color Cosmetics5.4.1.1 MQ Resin Structure and Properties5.4.1.2 MQ Resin as a Tackifier for Long-WearBenefits5.4.2 Silsesquioxane Resins in Long-Wear Cosmetics5.4.3 Silicone Acrylate Copolymers in Long-WearCosmetics5.4.3.1 Hybrid Silicone Acrylate Emulsion forLong-Wear Cosmetics5.4.3.2 Solvent-Borne Hybrid Silicone 62168169169171

Contents5.4.4 Ionic Functionalized Silicones for Long-WearCosmetics5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-WearCosmeticsAcknowledgementsReferencesPart 2: Surface Science Aspects67Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface,Surface Forces and InteractionsGustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves6.1 Introduction6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface6.3 Chemical and Physical Modificationsof the Hair Surface6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface6.4.1 Mapping the Hair Surface Chemistry6.4.2 Forces at the Surface of Hair6.4.3 Interaction with Cosmetic Actives6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Natureof the Hair Surface6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorialand Consumer Benefits6.7 Prospects6.8 SummaryAcknowledgementsReferencesAFM for Hair Surface CharacterisationSteven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu7.1 Hair Structure7.2 Elements of AFM7.2.1 Imaging - Topography7.2.2 Force Measurements Using the AFM7.2.2.1 Force Curves7.2.2.2 Friction/Lateral Force7.2.2.3 Elastic Theory and Nanoindentation7.2.3 Requirements for Good Use of AFM – Calibration7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle7.3.1 Hair Dimensions and Considerations7.3.2 Hair Surface 27229