Environmental Standards In The Textile And Shoe Sector

ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARDS PAY OFFThe BREFs advise manufacturing companies: allowtechnological improvements and the methods of theenvironmental management system to work hand in hand.Your operational environmental management not onlyprepares the ground for corresponding technical measures such as the integration of environmental standards inproduction.The most important savings potential:It also has a far broader effect: for example in sales,personnel management or marketing. Instruments suchas the quality management standards EN ISO 9000 ff, theenvironmental management standard EN ISO 14001 or theEuropean EMAS (Eco-Management and Audit Scheme) willsupport you in this.ä Lower spending on waste water and waste airtreatment.ACQUIRE NEW MARKETS – SECURE EXISTING ONESAs a supplier in the textile and shoe industry, your chances of acquiring new sales markets and securing existingones will rise if you can demonstrate better environmentalperformance than your competitors. Consumers are increasingly looking for products that cause no environmentaldamage in their manufacture, use and disposal (Environmental Awareness Study 2010, UBA). As a result, tradingcompanies and branded companies are increasingly marketing their products with additional ecological benefits.Keep up with this global development and integrate corresponding environmental standards into your production.LOWER PRODUCTION COSTSOperational environmental management and good housekeeping on their own can save a company large quantitiesof energy, raw materials or waste – at little or no effort orexpense. Further technically demanding measures mayrequire greater input of personnel and funds. However, heretoo, the effects will pay off in the medium and long term.The more efficiently your company uses energy, fresh wateror chemicals, the less its impact on the environment. Andyour costs are reduced at the same time.Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sectorä Lower costs thanks to savings in resources such asenergy and water.ä Lower spending, for example on raw materials orchemicals, through more efficient use.ä Lower spending on disposal thanks to lowervolumes of waste and better sorting for recycling.ä Lower spending on the purchasing of raw materialsthanks to the efficient use of materials and the recycling of production waste.Use this guideline to help you calculate: many environmental protection measures pay for themselves after justa short time.COMMERCE AND BANKS CALL FOR ENVIRONMENTALSTANDARDSCivil society organisations and the press keep a close eye onthe environmental management of manufacturing industry– even beyond the realm of international production chains.In the past, campaigns against companies that abuse socialstandards have repeatedly led to loss of sales and damageto image. Textiles or shoes manufactured under poor orlacking environmental standards are similarly affected. Forthis reason, traders and branded companies are increasinglyon the lookout for suppliers that fulfil high environmentalrequirements.Similarly, banks and other investors calculate the risks ofa possible environmental burden precisely when issuingcredit to companies.For example, the International Finance Corporation (IFC)– a subsidiary of the World Bank and the world‘s largestsource of credit for private industrial projects - obliges itsborrowers to take account of environmental protectionrequirements that are also based upon the BREFs.7

Make your company an attractive partner for trade andbanks: document the orderly operation of your productionin accordance with international environmental legislationand minimise the risk to your own liability and reputation inthe process.Raising your own recognition levels, becoming more strongly accepted and frequently favoured as a trading partner,gaining a reputation as an opinion leader in the sector – inbrief: establishing trust – these are all communicationgoals that you can achieve more easily with the targeteddeclaration of your environmental management.DO GOOD AND TALK ABOUT ITRaising your own recognition levels, becoming more strongly accepted and frequently favoured as a trading partner,gaining a reputation as an opinion leader in the sector – inbrief: establishing trust – these are all communicationgoals that you can achieve more easily with the targeteddeclaration of your environmental management.„We produce textiles and shoes in an environmentallyfriendly manner“ – the more tangibly you communicatethis environmental commitment within and outside yourcompany, the stronger the positive effect of your involvement will be beyond environmental protection itself. Thestrategies and measures of public relations (PR) will helpyou in this.„Thanks to certification throughenvironmental and social labelseveryone - from supplier to consumer - has a clear orientation andalternatives for action.“Barbara Küppers, terre des hommesDeutschland e. V.„The implementation of environmental and social standards creates trust amongst customers andoffers companies security againstpublic attacks from workers‘ associations and NGOs.“Christiane Schnura,Kampagne für Saubere Kleidung8ä Raising your own recognition levels, becoming morestrongly accepted and frequently favoured as a tradingpartner, gaining a reputation as an opinion leader inthe sector – in brief: establishing trust – these are allcommunication goals that you can achieve more easilywith the targeted declaration of your environmentalmanagement.ä Existing and potential trading and manufacturing partners.ä Customers of your customers – including, for example,the private label that drives „your“ textile or shoe production chain.ä Investoren.ä Civil society at your location.Your environmental commitment has a high value for all ofthese dialogue groups – whether it is as a sign of innovation, qualitative reliability, know-how, sustainability or socialresponsibility.The precise message that you direct at „your“ dialoguegroup and the strategy that you wish to use for this - forexample active dialogue, informing or reaction - dependson the individual circumstances.The press is an important communications channel forreaching your dialogue group. For this reason you shouldinform the editorial offices of the trade press of theenvironmental activities at your company – just as manycompanies in this guideline do with their good practiceexamples. Or inform the local press at your location ofthe measures you are taking to ensure clean water, cleanair and better training for your workforce. Make surethat you do not undertake any greenwashing. The pressEnvironmental standards in the textile and shoe sector

is just one of many effective communications channels.Check whether you can also present your environmentalmanagement on the internet. Seek out partnerships withassociations or start a company initiative yourself on thetheme of environmental standards.Check if you can be certified for nationally or internationally-recognised product labels. Independent environmental labels enjoy great trust – amongst businesspartners as well as consumers. In the appendix you willfind sources for further information on this theme.Do not be afraid to approach the PR departments of majorprivate labels that ultimately market your product. Thesecompanies are often interested in your good practice examples themselves, to integrate them into their own brandPR. Unfortunately, it is often difficult for largebranded companies to research thecomplex supply chains of theirgeneral and sub importers.This is your opportunity toput yourself in afavourable light.„Comprehensive PR work and anEMAS-conform sustainability report are good opportunities to lendyour company transparency andtrustworthiness.“Hilke Patzwall, VAUDE Sport GmbH & Co. KG9

THE BEST AVAILABLE TECHNIQUES FOR TEXTILE AND SHOEPRODUCTION„With the maintaining of environmental standards and the achieving of own sustainability goalscompanies not only avoid risks toimage and consequently sales, butcan also increase the energy andresource efficiency of their valuechains.“Stefan Dierks, Tchibo GmbH„The BREFs should be globallyvalid references for the operationof industrial plants.“Markus Reinken, LIDL Stiftung & Co. KG„For years now we have been observing a continuous increase indemand for goods produced in anenvironmentally-friendly manner.Anyone turning a blind eye to thiswill lose key groups of buyers.“The European Union aims to achieve a high degree ofenvironmental protection for especially relevant industrialbranches in the member states of the EU. To this end, in1996 it adopted the Integrated Pollution Prevention andControl Directive (IPPC Directive). The IPPC Directive –amended in 2010 by the Directive on Industrial Emissions –obliges many production facilities in the EU states to avoidor reduce emissions in the air, water and soil, as well aswaste. To this end it foresees the best available techniquesdescribed in the so-called BREFs – Best Available Techniques Reference Documents. Without these techniquesthe plants concerned receive no operating permit.As a reference for the operation of industrial plants theBREFs also apply beyond the EU as their area of legalvalidity. For example, the UN ECE (United Nations Economic Commission for Europe) uses the information fromthe BREFs in its protocols for the Convention on Longrange Transboundary Air Pollution, which specify thethreshold values for environmental pollutants.A BREF describes the technologies and procedures thatare currently the most ecologically advantageous andeconomically practical for the respective plant type. Thesetechniques are stipulated and updated at regular intervals, with the EU member states consulting industry andenvironmental bodies.Processes of particular environmental relevance in theproduction of textiles and shoes are textile finishing andleather production. For these two production stages theBREFs “Textile industry” and “Tanning of hides and skins”describe detailed environmentally-friendly techniques.Astrid Schödel, s.Oliver Bernd FreierGmbH & Co. KG10Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector

PRODUCTION OF RAW FIBRESYARN PRODUCTIONGREY CLOTHPRODUCTIONTEXTILE FINISHINGMAKING UPProcess stepsProduction ofNatural fibresProduction ofman-made ,PackingRelevantenvironmentaleffectsLand usePesticidePreservativesWater demandWaste waterpollution,Air emissions,poorly biodegradable textileauxiliariesTextile auxiliariesand chemicalsuse,Fibre waste,Noise pollution,Dust emissionsTextile auxiliariesand chemicalsuse,Noise pollution,Dust emissions,Waste,poorly biodegradable sizingagentsWater demand ,Waste waterpollution,Textile auxiliariesand chemicalsuse,Air emissions,Energy demandEnergy demandWasteFrom the raw fibre to the finished textile product: the key environmental effects of the textile industryTHE PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES AND SHOES PLACES ABURDEN ON THE ENVIRONMENTThe environmental effects of the textile industryThe textile and clothing industry is one of the most important industrial sectors worldwide. It is one of the oldestand most complex segments of manufacturing industry.Several hundred million employees work, primarily insmall and medium-sized companies, to produce clothing,technical textiles (such as vehicle seat covers, tarpaulinsor tyre fabrics) as well as house and home textiles (suchas towels, bed linen or curtains). Every step required inprocessing has a resultant effect on the environment.„Via optimised production processes it is generally possible torecoup the spending on sustainableenvironmental measures.“Manfred Junkert, HDS – Bundesverband der Schuhindustrie e. V.Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector11

The environmental effects of the shoe industryThe global shoe market has changed enormously. Ofthe over 2.8 billion pairs of shoes traded in the EU statesin 2008 alone, 85 percent originated from productioncountries outside the EU – a figure that was just 60 percentin 2005 (Eurostat). Nine out of ten pairs of imported shoeswere produced in Asia – particularly in China (72.6 %), andVietnam (11.9 %). As is the case with textile production,the manufacture of shoes is broken down into numeroussub-stages, such as the manufacturing of the shoe andsole materials. Here too, emissions are generated in all ofthe individual stages, polluting air and water in particular.MANUFACTURE OF UPPER MATERIALSMANUFACTURE OF BOTTOM TMENTProcessstepsLeather(scope ofthe BREF)Fabrics fromnatural orman-madefibresPlasticsLeather(scope ofthe BREF)RubberPlasticsCuttingPreparing ofpartsStitching ofpartsAGO nCleaning/pretreating ofshoe,Waxing/sprayingpolishingof shoeRelevantenvironmentaleffectsWaterdemand/Waste waterpollution,Use ofchemicals,WasteWaterdemand/Waste waterpollution,ChemicalsWasteWasteAir emissions (VOC)Waterdemand/Waste waterpollution,Use ofchemicals,WasteUse ofchemicalsAir emissions(VOC)WasteAir emissions (VOC)Air emissions (VOC),WasteUse ofchemicalsAir emissions (VOC),WasteUse ofchemicals.Air emissions(VOC), use ofchemicalsWaste waterpollutionFrom raw material to finished shoe: effects on the environment12Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector

BENCHMARKS: THIS IS HOW LITTLE THE MANUFACTUREOF TEXTILES AND SHOES SHOULD POLLUTE THEENVIRONMENTwhere these correspond to a good international industrialstandard.The benchmarks stated here are based on the statementsof the Environmental, Health and Safety Guidelines „TextileManufacturing“ and „Tanning and Leather Finishing“. Thepublisher of these guidelines, the International FinanceCorporation, uses the BREFs as a key source of informationin these.Every amount of energy, chemicals or water saved benefitsthe environment and reduces operating costs.When estimating saving potential within your companysector-specific orientation values for emissions and wastecan help,Benchmarks in textile productionCONSUMPTION OF RESOURCES AND ENERGYPROCESSELECTRICAL ENERGY(KWH/KG TEXTILE SUBSTRATE)THERMAL ENERGY(MJ/KG TEXTILE SUBSTRATE)WATER CONSUMPTION(L/KG TEXTILE SUBSTRATE)Wool scouring0,33,52–6Yarn finishing––70–120Yarn dyeing0,8 – 1,113–1615 – 30 (dyeing)30–50 (rinsing)Dyeing loose fibres0,1 – 0,44– 144– 15 (dyeing)4–20 (rinsing)Finishing knitted fabrics1–610–6070–120Finishing woven fabric0,5 – 1,530– 7050–100Finishing dyed knitted fabrics–– 200Source: IFC-EHS Guidelines „Textile Manufacturing“AIR EMISSIONSPARAMETEREMISSION VALUE IN mg/Nm3VOC2 / 20 / 50 / 75 / 100 / 150 a) b)Formaldehyde20Ammonia30Total dust50„Environmental protection and therational use of energy have a highvalue for the German textile andclothing industry. The central taskhere is to establish productionprocesses in an ecologically andeconomically responsible manneron the basis of statutory requirements, i.e. to use resourcesefficiently.“a) calculated as total carbonb) As the 30-minute mean for stack emission:ä 2 mg/Nm3 for VOCs classified as carcinogenic or mutagenic with mass flowgreater than or equal to 10 g/hour;ä 20 mg/Nm3 for discharges of halogenated VOCs with a mass flow equal orgreater than 100 g/hour;ä 50 mg/Nm3 for waste gases from drying for large installations (solventconsumption 15 t/a);ä 75 mg/Nm³ for coating application processes for large installations (solventconsumption 15 t/a);ä - 100mg/Nm³ for small installations (solvent consumption 15 t/a).ä If solvent is recovered from emissions and reused, the limit value is150mg/Nm³Source: IFC-EHS Guidelines „Textile Manufacturing“Christina Meßner, Gesamtverband derdeutschen Textil- und Modeindustrie e. V.Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector13

Benchmarks in textile productionWASTE WATER AND WASTE QUANTITIESORIGIN OF WASTE WATERWASTE WATER EMISSIONS AT THE POINT OF DISCHARGEBENCHMARKPARAMETEREMISSION VALUEWool scouring2–6 l/kg textile substratepH value6–9Yarn finishing (wool)35–45 l/kg textile substrateBOD530 mg/lYarn finishing (cotton)100–120 l/kg textile substrateCOD160 mg/lYarn finishing (synthetic fibres)65–85 l/kg textile substrateAOX1 mg/lFinishing of knitted fabrics (wool)60–70 l/kg textile substrateSuspended solids50 mg/lFinishing of knitted fabrics (cotton)60–135 l/kg textile substrateOil and grease10 mg/lFinishing of knitted fabrics(synthetic fibres)35–80 l/kg textile substratePesticides0,05–0,10 mg/l a)Cadmium0,02 mg/lFinishing of woven fabric (wool)70–140 l/kg textile substrateChromium, total0,5 mg/lFinishing of woven fabric (cotton)50–70 l/kg textile substrateChrom VI0,1 mg/lFinishing, including printing, of woven fabric150–80 l/kg textile substrateCobalt0,5 mg/lCopper0,5 mg/lNickel0,5 mg/lZinc2 mg/lPhenol0,5 mg/lSulphide1 mg/lPhosphorous, total2 mg/lAmmonium- nitrogen10 mg/lTotal nitrogen10 mg/lColour7 m-1 (436 nm, Gelb)5 m-1 (525 nm, Rot)3 m-1 (620 nm, Blau)Toxicity to fish eggs2Temperature increase 3 C(wool)Finishing of woven fabric (synthetic fibres)100–180 l/kg textile substrateSludge from waste water treatment1–5 kg/m3Source: FC-EHS Guidelines „Textile Manufacturing“a) 0.05 mg/l for total pesticides (organophosphorous pesticides excluded); 0.10mg/l for organophosphorous pesticides.Source: IFC-EHS Guidelines „Textile Manufacturing“14Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector

Benchmarks in leather productionnCONSUMPTION OF RESOURCES AND ENERGYWASTE WATER EMISSIONS AT THE POINT OF DISCHARGECONSUMPTION PERUNIT PRODUCEDBENCHMARKEnergy/fuel9.3–42 GJ/t raw hideChemicals 500 kg/t raw hideWater consumption12–30 m3/t raw hide(salted bovine hide)32–69 m3/t raw hide(pig skin)containing sulphides a)110–265 l/Fell(salted sheepskin)360 l/Fell (wool-on sheepskin)Source: IFC-EHS Guidelines „Tanning and Leather Finishing“,adaptiert durch das UmweltbundesamtVOC EMISSIONS FROM LEATHER COATINGTHRESHOLD VALUE FOR SOLVENTCONSUMPTIONEMISSIONS VALUE10–25 t/a85 g VOC/m 25 t/a75 g VOC/m2 10 t/a150 g VOC/m2 a)2a) For leather coating in furniture manufacture and particular leather goodsused as small consumer goods, such as bags, belts, wallets etc.PARAMETEREMISSIONS VALUEpH value6–9BOD550 mg/lCOD250 mg/lSuspended solids50 mg/lSulphide in partial flow2 mg/lChromium VI0,1 mg/lChromium, total in partial flowcontaining chromium b)1 mg/lSulphate c)300 mg/lAmmonium-nitrogen10 mg/ld)Total Kjeldahl Nitrogend)10 mg/lPhosphorous, total2 mg/lPhenol0,5 mg/la) Waste water from soaking, liming and deliming, each including rinsingb) Waste water from tanning, including dewatering and from wet finishing, eachincluding rinsingc) for areas where the sewer system don’t tolerate sulphated) for nitrification a water temperature of at least 12 C is necessarySource: IFC-EHS Guidelines „Tanning and Leather Finishing“, adapted by theFederal Environment AgencySource: Directive 2010/75/EUVOC EMISSIONS FROM SHOE PRODUCTIONTHRESHOLD VALUE FOR SOLVENTCONSUMPTIONEMISSION VALUE 5 t/a25 g VOC per pairSource: Directive 2010/75/EUEnvironmental standards in the textile and shoe sector15

ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT: THE FIRST STEPS AND THEEFFECTS THEY HAVEEnvironmental management is not limited to textileand shoe production, it is also one of the best availabletechniques for all industrial branches. Therefore, in thisguideline it sets the initial impulse as far as your operational environmental protection is concerned.Strategic environmental management starts with the analysisof operational material and energy flows. This enables youto recognise exactly where you can optimise. In the process,options for organisational improvement or unproductivecosts incurred also become evident. Dispensing with thesecan significantly increase the cost efficiency and quality ofyour products. Thanks to your transparent documentationof the quantity and environmental relevance of substancesemployed and disposed of the trust of your customers andpartners in you as a supplier will grow.The tasks of environmental management concern such keycorporate fields as:ä Analysis of the input and output mass flows in yourproduction.ä Well-documented procedures for the maintenance ofyour plant and the storage, dosage and preparation ofthe chemicals employed.ä A functioning information and communication structure throughout the length of your value chain.The processes in the textiles industry are highly complex.The BREFs therefore advises you to work closely with yoursuppliers. Do not only strive to achieve this at your site,also implement it step-by-step for the co-operation withproduction partners beyond the region. In this way youwill establish a chain of environmental responsibility thatwill be increasingly decisive for your marketing success.Recognition and controlling of input and output massflo

DESIGN: DiehlDesign GmbH Printed on 100% recovered paper. Environmental standards in the textile and shoe sector 3 CONTENT 4 Content 5 BAT guideline - in brief . ge of the textile and shoe production chain - if this guide-line and the stakeholders from industry, trade and society involved with it pass on this message, then more and more .