Apparel- Dyeing And Finish Guidelines - NatureWorks

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Ingeo Fibre Apparel Product GuidelinesDyeing and FinishingContents:1. Introduction to Ingeo fibre2. General considerations for dye and finish3. Dye selection4. Shades and washing fastness5. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo fibre- Ingeo fibre / cotton- Ingeo fibre / wool- Package dye6. Process routes7. Atmospheric dyeing

Apparel Product Guidelines1. Introduction to Ingeo fibres

Ingeo fibre The only synthetic fibre commercially available in bulkquantities, that is made entirely from annually renewable rawmaterials - not oilCornFermentation sunshine H20SUSTAINABILITYCompostLactic AcidPolymerGarmentsIngeo FibreNot only from nature - but also back to nature

Ingeo fibreFrom nature, and back to nature- plus performance:¾Excellent wicking properties¾ Moisture management Comfort¾ FreshLow odor retention¾Does not support bacterial growth¾ Hypoallergenic No skin irritation¾Rapid soil release¾ Quick drying¾ Excellent after wash appearance Easy careAnd all supported by detailed technical bulletins

Ingeo fibre selected technical bulletinsSubjectBulletinnumberApparelOdour release290904Hohenstein Institute testing260904Washing and dry cleaning performance50904Fibre & fabric properties180904Home textilesFibre fill compression testing200904Duvet / comforter performance130904Pillow performance320904Furnishing flammability characteristics110104Non wovenMoisture transport in Ingeo fibre non woven fabrics380904Wipes regularity technical bulletin (toxicology)390904Wipes commercial production information110804Multi productCompostability120904Ingeo fibre fabric UV resistance370904These and more available on www.ingeofibers.com

Apparel Product Guidelines2. Dyeing - general considerations

Ingeo fibre dyeing and finishingGeneral considerations:1) Lower melt point (170 C) Safe, effective, heat setting – 130 C for 30secNo high temperature heat set for blends with:¾ Nylon, PET¾ Elastane ( 3% with no heat set OK)

Ingeo fibre dyeing and finishingIngeo andFinishingIngeo FabricFabricDyeingDyeingandFinishingGeneral considerations:2) Sensitivity to high temperature and alkali conditions: Safe, effective dyeing - 110 C for up to 30minSafe, effective processes developed:¾ Scour¾ Reduction clear¾ Reactive dye¾ Cotton pre bleach¾ etc

Ingeo fibre dyeing and finishingGeneral considerations:3) disperse dyes behave differently from PET on Ingeo fibre : Not all dyes good for PET are good for Ingeo fibre¾ Different exhaustion (some correlation with acetate dyeing) Dye shades are different on Ingeo fibre compare with PET:¾ Brighter than on PET¾ Higher visual colour yield than PETDYE SELECTION FOR INGEO FIBRE DYEING IS ESSENTIAL

Apparel Product Guidelines3. Dye selection

Ingeo fibre dyeing and finishingDifferent dyes – different exhaustion100%% exhaustion PLA 1100C, 30min PETb 1300C, 30min

Ingeo fibre dyeing and finishingSame dye – different gth (nm)700

TMINGEO Fabric Dyeing and FinishingSelected dyestuff for high wash fastness - DyStarTernariesSupport dyesDianix Flavine XFDianix Yellow Brown XFDianix Scarlet XFDianix Deep Red SFDianix Turquoise XFDianix Blue XFDianix Navy XFDianix Rubine XFNDianix Black XF

TMINGEO Fabric Dyeing and FinishingSelected dyestuff for high light fastness - DyStarTernariesDianix Orange AM-SLRDianix Red AM-SLRDianix Blue AM-SLRSupport dyesDianix Yellow AM-GDianix Turquoise S-BGDianix Navy AM-GDianix Black AM-BDianix Yellow AM-42Dianix Dark Red AM-2BDianix Blue AM-77

TMINGEO Fabric Dyeing and FinishingSelected dyestuff for standard fastness - DyStarTernariesSupport dyesDianix Yellow AC-E newDianix Red AC-E 01Dianix Flavine XFDianix Blue AC-EDianix Violet S-4RDianix Red C-4G 150%Dianix Dark Blue SE-3RTDianix Yellow Brown CCDianix Rubine C-B 150%Dianix Blue K-FBLDianix Turquoise S-BG

DyStar Colouration PackageComprehensive processingsuggestions from DyStarCD ROM with Colour matchingdata base

Apparel Product Guidelines4. Shades and washing fastness

Shades and fastnessAATCC 2A (500C) fastness on pale / medium shades

Shades and fastnessAATCC 1A (400C) fastness on medium / dark shades

Apparel Product Guidelines5. Process routes

Ingeo fibre knit fabric Dyeing (Staple Yarns)Typical RouteScour / Dye / (Reduction clear) Hydro Relax dry Slit Pad soften Stenter dry / heat set130oC for 20 - 30sec

Ingeo fibre knit fabric Dyeing (Filament Yarns)Typical RouteKnit Slit Pre heat set125oC for 20 - 30 sec Scour / dye / (reduction clear) Relax dry Pad soften Dry and post heat set130oC for 20 - 30 sec

Ingeo fibre woven fabric dyeing Many variations in woven fabrics finishing routes Suggested routing for trial start point only:Stenter pre heat set Open width desize/scour Jet dye reduction clear (dark shades) Hydro extract Detwist/open Pad soften stenter dry / post heat set130oC for 20 - 30 sec130oC for 20 - 30 sec

Apparel Product Guidelines6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo fibre- Ingeo fibre / cotton- Ingeo fibre / wool- Package dye

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles100% Ingeo fibreScouro60-70 Co50 C1 g/l Kieralon MFB (BASF)1 g/l Na2Co315minso50 Co50 C

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles100% Ingeo fibreDyeo110 C*o60 C015-30 mins1-2 C/mino3 C/mino50 Co40 C1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)Acetic acid/ sodiumacetate to pH 4-5Dianix dyes* Very heavy shadesmay be dyed for 30min0at 115 C for maximumcolour yield

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles100% Ingeo fibreReduction Clear (dark shades)o60-70 C 15minso50 C2 g/l sodium hydrosulphite2 g/l Na2Co3o50 Co50 C

Apparel Product Guidelines6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo fibre- Ingeo fibre / cotton- Ingeo fibre / wool- Package dye

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo fibre / cottonPre bleach - Peroxideo95 C30mins20mino70 Co40 C3 g/l Na2Co33 cc/l Hydrogen peroxide (35%)0.5g/l Baystabil LFS-T1cc/l Baysolex EXToo50 C50 C0.3cc/l AceticAcido40 C

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo fibre / cottonAlternative pre bleach - TAED (tetra acetyl ethylene diamine)Good white base with decreased hydrolysiso95 C40mins20mino70 Coo40 C50 Co50 Co40 C0.5g/l Na2Co35.0cc/l Hydrogen peroxide (35%)2.0g/l Warwick T202 (TAED)1.0g/l Pitchrun L300 (scouring agent)1.0g/l Neocrystal CG2000 (sequestering agent)1.0g/l Neorate PLC7000 (peroxide stabiliser)Neutralise with acetic acid if needed

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo fibre/cottonDisperse / Direct - one batho110 C15-30mino3 C/min0o60 C1-2 C/mino100 Co1 C/mino80 Co3 C/mino50 Co40 C10 g/l sodium sulphate1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)2 g/l Persoftal L (Bayer)Acetic acid/sodium acetateto pH 5Dianix/Sirius dyes

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo fibre /cottonDisperse / Direct - one bath after treat for darker shades5min10min10min10min10min10minRinseNeutralise Acetic Acido40 CSirius B*over 5min*NaOH** over 10min% Sirius B 1.0 (1.5 x %of total direct dye)Minimum 1.5%/ maximum 7.0%**cc/l NaOH (40%) 1 amount of Sirius B ( in %)Minimum 2.5%

IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo fibre/ cotton (start point for trials only)Disperse / Reactive - stage 1o110 Coo60 C30mins1-2 C/mino3 C/mino50 Co60-70 C 15minso50 Co40 CDianix dyes1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)2 g/l Persoftal L (Bayer)Acetic acid/sodium acetateto pH 52 g/l sodium hydrosulphite2 g/l Na2Co3o50 C

INGEOTM Dyeing and Finishing - Dye cyclesIngeo / cotton (start point for trials only)Disperse / reactive - stage 2o80 Co60 C20‘40‘o50 CNaOHo30 CoAcetic acid to pH 6Sodium sulphateo50 CRemazol RGB dyes30 C

Apparel Product Guidelines6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo fibre- Ingeo fibre / cotton- Ingeo fibre / wool- Package dyeNB – there has been limited work on dyeing of Ingeo fibre blended withwool, and the information provided is based on our best knowledge todate. It can only be taken as guidelines for development work.

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsGeneral considerations Ingeo fibre and wool are highly compatible Both fibres dislike high temperature and alkali combinations:¾ The pH dyeing conditions for Ingeo fibre are good for wool¾ The lower dyeing temperature of Ingeo fibre affords moreprotection to wool than PET blend dyeing Stress / strain curves are similar:¾ Indicates compatibilityin most stages of processing1.5dtex 38mmFibre Stress Strain Data60HT PolyesterTenacity (cN/tex)5040LyocellCotton30PLAViscose20Wool1000510 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60Extension (%)

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsGeneral considerations for Ingeo fibre / wool blend dyeing : Disperse dyes will cross stain on wool¾ Can cause fastness issues(Similar issues on dyeing PET / wool blends)¾ After treatment to minimise cross staining is vital (particularly fordark shades)Wash fastness is limited to 40oC tests (e.g. AATCC 1A / C06, A2S)

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsSuggested dark shade recipes for Ingeo / wool- standard fastness(start point for lab trials only) :BlackNavy Dianix Flavine XFDianix Yellow Brown CCDianix Turquoise S-BGDianix Dark blue SE-3RT0.19%1.45%0.29%2.20% Isolan Black 2S-LD1.13% Dianix Flavine XF0.18%Dianix Turquoise S-BG0.42%Dianix Dark Blue SE-3RT 2.36% Isolan Dark Blue 2S-GL1.08%

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsScour (DyStar)15 min60 C50 Crinse at 50 C1 g/l Diadavin UNJ (Bayer/Sybron) orKieralon MFB (BASF)2 g/l soda ash.

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsDye (DyStar)110 C1-2 C/min30 min3 C/min40 C1 2 31) 1 % Avolan UL DLP (Bayer/Sybron)1 g/l Avolan IS (Bayer/Sybron)pH 4.5-5 acetic acid2) X % Dianix dyes3) Y % Supralan / Isolan dyes

Ingeo fibre / wool blendsAftertreat (DyStar)rinse at 50 Crinse at 50 Crinse at 30 C1.5 g/l Blankit INpH 8.5-9

Apparel Product Guidelines6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo fibre- Ingeo fibre / cotton- Ingeo fibre / wool- Package dye

Ingeo fibre Staple Yarn – package dyeing Limited experience¾ Winding– Density as PET 0.35gm/cc– Minimal yarn shrinkage minimal increase in packagedensity after dye¾Dyeing– Suggested dye cycle (start point for trials only) as follows

Ingeo fibre Staple Yarn – package dyeingIngeo fibre yarn package dye cycle(scour, reduction clear etc - as for fabrics)o110 CNB this is a suggested dye cycle15-30 minsas a start point for trials onlyo3 C/min01 C/minoo40 C1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)2g/l Ludigol ARAcetic acid to pH 4-550 CDianix dyesFlow rate: 3 min in to out,2 minutes out to inSimilar cycle is also appropriate for top dye

Ingeo fibre Staple Yarn – Package DyeingIngeo fibre yarn package dye cycle- alternative system with MSP (Mono sodium phosphate) buffer(scour, reduction clear etc - as for fabrics)o110 C15-30 minso3 C/minNB this is a suggested dye cycle01 C/minas a start point for trials onlyoo50 C50 Co40 CDyeMSP to pH 5.0 - 5.3Plus additional 4 g/l MSP2.0 g/l Basol WS,0.25 g/l Milease T (Lubricant)Flow rate: 3 min in to out,2 minutes out to in

Apparel Product Guidelines7. Atmospheric dyeing

Ingeo fibre - atmospheric dyeing Limited lab work suggests:¾Selected dyes give adequate exhaustion at 100oC, 30min¾Only pale to medium shades¾AATCC 1A fastnessTrichromatic combination as start point for trials only:Dianix Deep Red SFDianix Yellow Brown XFDianix Dark Blue SE-3RTSignificant for sweater yarn and garment dyeing

Ingeo fibre - atmospheric dyeing Process cycle¾¾¾Scour – as for 100% Ingeo fibreDye - as for 100% Ingeo fibre, but hold at 98oC for 30mininstead of 110oCReduction clear - pale to medium shades, so not normallyneeded . or mild process, eg Cyclanon ECO (DyStar)

More information at www.ingeofibers.comhumanity, nature and technology in balance

IMPORTANT NOTES:1) The information provided in this document is given in good faith based on the best knowledge of currenttechnology.The information provided can only be taken as a start point for trials to establish production routes forIngeo fibre products.Cargill Dow cannot be held responsible for any claims arising from the information contained within thisdocument, howsoever caused.2) Yarns produced from different merges, and from different suppliers of INGEO(TM) PLA fibers, may varyin dye uptake, which can influence the reproducibility of shades.It is therefore recommended that beforecarrying out any production dyeing on new merges or fiber from new suppliers, that the dye recipe isverified by a laboratory check.This is a similar procedure to other man made fibers, and so similar practices should be adopted to controlcolor reproducibility at the final coloration stage.INGEO (TM) is a trademark of NatureWorks LLC, 15305 Minnetonka Boulevard, Minnetonka, MN 55345-1512, USA

Dyeing and Finishing Contents: 1. Introduction to Ingeo fibre 2. General considerations for dye and finish 3. Dye selection 4. Shades and washing fastness 5. Dye cycles - 100% Ingeo fibre - Ingeo fibre / cotton - Ingeo fibre / wool - Package dye 6. Process routes 7. Atmospheric dyeing

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