SMOKIES GUIDE - NPS History

Park weather Spring - March hasthe most changeableweather; snow can fallon any day, especiallyat the higher elevations.Backpackers are oftencaught off guard whena sunnyday in the 70s F isfollowed by a wet,bitterly cold one. Bymid- to late April, theweather is milder. Summer - Bymid-June, heat, hazeand humidity are thenorm. Most precipitation occurs as afternoonthundershowers. Autumn - Inmid-September, aMOVING ROCKS HARMSpattern of warm, sunnydays and crisp, clearAQUATIC LIFE.nights often begins.However, cool, rainydays also occur. Snow may fall at thePlease see the map on page 16 forhigher elevations in November.locations. Picnic pavilions may Winter - Days during this ficklebe reserved for 12.50- 80 atseason can be sunny and 65 F or snowyrecreation.gov.with highs in the 20s. At the lowelevations, snows of 1" or more occurOther services3-5 times per year. At Newfound Gap,There are no gas stations, showers, or69" fall on average. Lows of -20 F arerestaurants in the national park.possible at the higher elevations.These temperatureand precipitationaverages arebased on data forthe last 20 years.Temperaturesare in degreesFahrenheit. Anaverage of over84" (7 feet) ofprecipitation fallson the higherelevations of theSmokies. On Mt.Le Conte, anaverage of 82.8" ofsnow falls per year.FishingFishing is permitted year-round inthe park, and a Tennessee or NorthCarolina fishing license is required.Either state license is valid throughoutthe park and no trout stamp is required.Fishing with bait is prohibited inthe park. A special permit is requiredfor the Cherokee Reservation andGatlinburg. Licenses are available innearby towns.A free fishing map with a completelist of all park fishing regulations is available at visitor centers.Camping in the backcountrySummertime camping can be anexciting adventure for persons properlyequipped and informed. To facilitatethis activity, the National Park Servicemaintains more than 800 miles oftrails and more than 100 backcountrycampsites and shelters throughout thepark. One of the greatest challenges forbackcountry campers is deciding whereto go. Here are some tools to help.1. Go online to view the park’s officialtrail map (nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/maps.htm), which shows all park trails,campsites and shelters. Park rules andregulations are also listed here. If youwish, you can purchase the printedversion of the trail map for 1 by stopping at any park visitor center or calling865.436.7318 x226 or shopping onlineat SmokiesInformation.org.2. Call or stop by the park’s backcountry office, which is open dailyfrom 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., for trip planning help. The office is located inSugarlands Visitor Center, two milessouth of Gatlinburg on U.S. 441.865.436.1297.3. Make your reservation and obtainyour permit through the backcountryoffice at Sugarlands Visitor Center(by phone or in person) or online atsmokiespermits.nps.gov.Reservations and permits arerequired for all overnight stays in thebackcountry. The cost is 4 per personper night. Reservations may be madeup to 30 days in advance.Smokies Guide Summer 2018 3Summer hikers should be especiallyaware of abrupt weather changes andthe danger of hypothermia—thelowering of body temperature. Thecombination of rain, cold and wind(especially at the higher elevations) isextremely dangerous.To prevent hypothermia, carryreliable rain gear at all times. Layerclothing that provides warmth whenwet (not cotton). Be prepared forsudden and drastic weather changes.Stay dry.Driving distances andestimated timesCherokee, NC to:Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour)Cades Cove: 57 miles(2 hours)Newfound Gap: 18 miles(½ hour)Clingmans Dome:25 miles (¾ hour)Cataloochee: 39 miles(1½ hours)Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour)Gatlinburg, TN to:Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour)Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour)Newfound Gap: 16 miles(½ hour)Clingmans Dome: 23 miles(¾ hour)Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours)Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles(¼ hour)Deep Creek:48 miles (1½ hours)Townsend, TN to:Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour)Newfound Gap: 34 miles(1¼ hours)Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour)Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours)Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour)Cataloochee: 87 miles(2¼ hours)

GREAT SIGHTS TO SEE1. Clingmans DomeHighlights: mountain views, access toAppalachian TrailIf you want to reach the highest peakin the Smokies, turn off Newfound GapRoad near Newfound Gap and followthe seven-mile-long Clingmans DomeRoad to its end. From the large parkingarea, a very steep, paved, half-mile trailleads past a visitor center to the observation tower on top of Clingmans Dome.On a clear day, the views are unbeatable.At an elevation of 6,643', ClingmansDome is significantly cooler than thesurrounding lowlands and receives muchmore precipitation.A trip to Clingmans Dome is a tripto the Canadian-zone spruce-fir forest.This fragrant evergreen woodland issimilar to the boreal forests of NewEngland and eastern Canada. There isexcellent summer wildflower viewingalong the trail to the observation tower.Mileage from Gatlinburg––23from Cherokee––25from Townsend—412. CosbyHighlights: hiking, waterfallCosby features a large campground,picnic area, and plenty of hikingtrails. The 4.2-mile roundtrip hike toHenwallow Falls is moderate in difficultyand extremely popular. The one-milelong Cosby Self-guiding Nature Trail isa good way to stretch your legs and getacquainted with the area. Sutton RidgeOverlook and its impressive views areaccessible from the Lower Mt. Cammerer Trail. It’s 2.5 miles out and back.For more ambitious hikers, thestrenuous 10.4-mile roundtrip trek tothe historic Mt. Cammerer Fire Toweris one of the better long day hikes inthe Smokies.Cosby Campground is generally oneof the last campgrounds in the park tofill up. The picnic area includes a largecovered pavilion that can be reserved inadvance at recreation.gov.CATALOOCHEERoadClosedtos e d lesclovehicdaR o o to rmWaterrock KnobMileage from Gatlinburg—20from Cherokee—53from Townsend—403. Old Elkmont TownHighlights: historic buildings, walkingtrailsThe Elkmont area was once alogging boomtown and a bustlingenclave of summer vacation homes.Today, the National Park Service hasrestored the Appalachian Clubhouse,Spence cabin and four other historicbuildings that offer a glimpse intothe summer resort era.Elkmont also has a variety of easyto-moderate hiking trails, includingthe Cucumber Gap loop (5.5 miles),Elkmont Self-guiding Nature Trail (0.8mile roundtrip), Jakes Creek Falls (3.2miles roundtrip) and Huskey BranchFalls (4.3 miles roundtrip). Little RiverTrail makes a pleasant streamside stroll.Anglers have long frequented nearbyLittle River for its excellent trout fishing.Mileage from Gatlinburg––7from Townsend—15from Cherokee—394. Cataloochee ValleyHighlights: historic buildings, elkviewing, horse and hiking trailsFrom just about anywhere you start,the journey to Cataloochee is long andwinding. The last four miles are on acurvy, one-lane gravel road. Once safelyin the valley, however, you will findbeauty and history abound.Historic buildings include nicelypreserved homes, a church, and evena school. Popular trails include thetwo-mile roundtrip walk to theWoody house on Rough Fork Trailand the 7.5-mile Boogerman Loophike. The latter includes some difficultstream crossings.During summer, the best times toview elk and other wildlife are earlymorning and evening.Advance reservations viarecreation.gov are required forCataloochee Campground.Mileage from Cherokee—39from Gatlinburg—65from Townsend—87Smokies Guide Summer 2018 45. Deep CreekHighlights: walking trails, waterfalls,mountain bikingThe Deep Creek area is an off-thebeaten-path destination in the GreatSmoky Mountains, celebrated for itsrushing streams and waterfalls. Hikersenjoy the area because of the waterfallsand because there are several loop hikesto choose from. Mountain bikers cantake advantage of one of the few parktrails where bicycles are permitted.Deep Creek area loop hikes includeJuney Whank Falls (0.6 mile), ThreeWaterfalls Loop (2.4 miles), and DeepCreek-Indian Creek Loop (4.4 miles).Longer loop hikes are also available.Bicycles are allowed on Deep Creekand Indian Creek trails to the pointswhere the old roadbeds end and the trailtreads begin.Deep Creek Picnic Area is openyear-round. The picnic pavilion can bereserved at Recreation.gov.Mileage from Cherokee—14from Gatlinburg—48from Townsend—65

Words with a Rangercontinued from page 1. . . adaptable of wildlife, as long as theycan find suitable habitat, which we helpto provide here in the Great SmokyMountains. Many avian species aresensitive environmental indicators thatcan alert us to ecological disruption,often before it directly affects us.Many migrating birds are triggeredto travel by the length of the day ratherthan temperature or food availability.These birds arrive in our area at thesame time each year, but the foodthey rely on may not be on the sameschedule. Have the caterpillars they liketo eat already emerged and pupated oris there enough other food for them tofatten back up and nest successfully?A study of the Black-throatedBlue Warbler done in New Hampshireshows this species is arriving fromits winter grounds at the same timeeach year, but is adapting to changingconditions by going into nesting behavior right away. They aren’t able tobuild up their fat reserves after theirlong migration because, if they did,there wouldn’t be enough food fortheir chicks.Through the AT Seasons (AT Appalachian Trail) citizen science project, we encourage visitors to collectand enter data about avian patternsfor the National Phenology Network(NPN). AT Seasons connects various parks and organizations that areactively monitoring seasonal changesin plants and animals along the Appalachian Trail, which goes through GreatSmoky Mountains National Park.Four bird species are the focusof the AT Seasons project with theNPN: Black-throated Blue Warbler,Black-throated Green Warbler, WinterWren and Black-capped Chickadee.Each can be found by learning torecognize its call. The wren has a longcomplex call with many trills and chirps.The other three are easily recognizedwith a mnemonic (see story and sidebaron the front page).PARK NEWSGreat Smoky Mountains National Park news briefsAll Taxa Biodiversity InventoryAfter 20 years of pursuing an All TaxaBiodiversity Inventory (ATBI), with taxonomists scouring the ridges and valleysof Great Smoky Mountains NationalPark in search of everything from birdsto bryophytes to butterflies, the park isclosing in on three major species discovery milestones: The 1,000th park species new to thescience books The 10,000th species added topark lists The 20,000th species known to live inthe park“We are definitely going to hit the1,000th species new to science markin 2018,” said Todd Witcher, executivedirector of Discover Life in America(DLIA). “We have several potential newspecies going through the vetting processright now.”The ATBI was launched in 1998as an effort to identify every variety ofplant and animal in the park. DLIAwas chartered in 1998 to help make theATBI a reality. The Smokies have longbeen renowned for their abundance anddiversity of life, including some 1,600species of flowering plants, 30 types ofDiscovers New Plants, Animals insalamanders and at least 1,862 butterfliesand moths. Knowing what creaturesreside in the park helps the National ParkServcie better respond to threats like airpollution, forest insects and diseases, andnon-native species.The organization uses mini grantsand other incentives to persuade biologists from around the globe to spendtime in the park collecting specimens,and later identifying what they found.New information is then logged into amassive database that not only showswhat’s here, but also reveals where inthe park it has been reported and whatother creatures are associated with it.The information is invaluable to parkmanagers. Few if any of the world’sother natural areas can boast such indepth knowledge of their resident floraand fauna.Going forward, DLIA will notonly continue researching the Smokies,it will take the lessons it learned hereand share them with other parks andsites worldwide. “We have signed amemorandum of understanding withthe Xishuangbanna Tropical BotanicalGarden in China to help them withSurvey Shows Park’s Firewood Policy is Workingdevastate millions of park trees. OtherNew research by the Nature Conservinvasive forest pests like the hemlockancy indicates that the majority ofwoolly adelgid and balsam woollycampers in Great Smoky Mountainsadelgid have already caused catastrophicNational Park are aware of the park’sdamage to certain areas of the Smokies.firewood regulations and are abidingSeventy percent of survey respondby them. The rules, enacted in 2015,ents said they agreed with the firewoodallow campers to bring only certifiedpolicy and thought it was the rightheat-treated firewood into the park.thing to do to protect trees. Eighty-fourCertified wood may be purchasedpercent of campers surveyed said theyat many businesses inside and outsidewere aware of the park regulations andthe park. Visitors are also free to collect88 percent knew that transporting firedead and down wood in the park forwood spreads forest pests and diseases.their campfires.Firewood users spent an average ofThe firewood regulations are 5.92 per bundle for wood purchaseddesigned to prevent destructive, nonoutside the park and around 6.91 fornative insects like the emerald ash borer,wood purchased in the park. Dead andAsian long-horned beetle and gypsydown wood gathered in the park is free.moth from invading the Smokies. Thesenon-native insects have the potential toSmokies Guide Summer 2018 5Smokiestheir species inventory,” Witcher said.In addition, DLIA is working withseveral sites in the U.S. like Big ThicketNational Preserve, Oak Ridge Reservation, and Crane Hollow Nature Preserveto help them succeed with similarprojects. In fact, the Smokies speciesinventory has helped spark a nationwidemovement at sites—ranging from tinynature centers to national forests—totake stock of their biological assets. Theprocedures pioneered by DLIA are serving as models for programs from Texasto Maine and have even led to a cooperative agreement with the E.O. WilsonFoundation’s ‘Half Earth’ project.As part of its educational mission,DLIA recruits legions of volunteers andinterns to become ‘citizen scientists’ whohelp with the work. These participantsgain not only an insider’s look at theparks and preserves, they gain first handknowledge of biology, field science andlaboratory practices.Funding for DLIA comes mostlyfrom donations from individuals andinstitutions as well as facility supportprovided by the national park. To learnmore, please visit DLIA.org.GOT WOOD?Go to Firewoodscout.orgfor a list of nearly100 locations in andnear the park wherecertified firewood maybe purchased. This woodis certified to have beenheat-treated to kill allwood-boring insects andtheir eggs.Destruction to tree byemerald ash borer.

and frogs have eyes thatare extremely sensitiveto light. Prolongedexposure to brightlights can cause themto become disoriented and may affecttheir hormones,skin coloration,body temperatureand reproduction.All theStarsin the SkyWith some of thedarkest skies inthe eastern UnitedStates, the Smokiesprovide a clearview of starlightfor our enjoymentand for the benefitof wildlifeIn national parkslike this one, natural darkness is aresource that is protected just likebears, salamanders and wildflowers areprotected. The National Park Serviceworks to preserve darkness for severalreasons, including enjoyment by parkvisitors and benefits to wildlife.For many people who live in largeurban areas, the night sky is a dome oflight without a single visible star. Fortunately, the Smokies have some of thedarkest skies in the eastern U.S. On aclear, moonless night, if you step awayfrom the lights and give your eyes a fewminutes to adjust, amazing sights likethe Milky Way, the Little Dipper and thesummer triangle snap into view. If youhappen to havea pair of binoculars, the stars and planetsbecome even more fascinating.Close to half the animals living inthe Smokies are nocturnal. These speciesdepend on darkness to evade predatorsand find food. Migrating songbirdsuse the stars for navigation and maybecome confused near large cities orcommunications towers with warninglights. Amphibians like salamandersMilky Way:This is actuallyEarth’s home galaxy,although most of itsstars are thousands oflight years away. Thehundreds of billionsof stars in this galaxyappear as a dim cloud inthe summer sky. Look forit to the east near Cygnusand the Summer Triangle.Big Dipper: One of thebrightest and easiest to identify, thisgroup of seven stars resembles a waterdipper or perhaps a bear. Some NativeAmericans say the bowl of the dipper is agreat bear and the handle is the hunterschasing the bear. Look for this one highin the northern sky.when facing south. Vega is one of thebrightest stars in the summer sky.Cygnus the Swan: Once you’ve foundthe Summer Triangle, look for Cygnusnearby. With a lot of imagination you cansee a swan; or the distinctive shape thatinspired the nickname “Northern Cross.”Big DipperLittle DipperVegaDenebSummerTriangleLittle Dipper: The outer lip of theBig Dipper points to the North Star(Polaris), which is the last and brighteststar in the handle of the Little Dipper. Ifyou need to get oriented, Polaris is duenorth all year-round.AltairSummer Triangle: Three stars, Vega,Deneb and Altair make up the SummerTriangle. Look almost straight overheadThe best time to view the Perseid meteor showersthis year will be August 11-13. Watch for50-60 meteors per hour!Cygnusthe SwanImage by Thomas McManusSmokies Guide Summer 2018 6

Practical yet beautiful styles of dress blend time-tested tradition with new influencesIn the early 1800s, when EuropeanAmerican settlers began trickling in tothe fertile valleys of the Great SmokyMountains, the Cherokee men andwomen they encountered dressed quitedifferently from the newcomers. TheCherokee were noted for their love ofbeauty in all things, and this passion wasattractively reflected in the quality andornamentation of their clothing.Of course members of the far-flungCherokee nation had been in closecontact with European-Americans formore than two centuries by the early1800s, especially in densely populated areas like coastal South Carolina.Consequently, there had already been agood deal of exchange of clothing stylesand other customs between the peoples.For example, Davy Crockett’s apparelundoubtedly reflected Cherokee influence, and the Cherokee adopted newmaterials like linen for shirts and woolfor breechclouts in their wardrobe.The early 19th century was therefore a time when the Cherokee wereadapting to various Old World influences while maintaining traditions fromtheir storied past. According to BarbaraDuncan, education director of theMuseum of the Cherokee Indian, “TheCherokee who lived in the mountainsheld onto their traditional clothing andother customs longer than the Cherokee living elsewhere.”Feathered Cape:This type of outerwear could beshort, just covering the shoulders,or a full-length gown wornfor warmth. The feathers camefrom a wide variety of birds,including Wild Turkey, Swans,Cardinals, Ravens or woodpeckers.The feathers were secured to a baseof cloth or special netting wovenfrom plant fibers.Garters and belts:Often finger woven of dyed wooland beads. These accessoriesmight also include plant fibersand hair from buffalo, bearor opossum.Skirt: By the beginning of the 19thcentury, Cherokee women were makingtheir traditional wraparound skirts fromEuropean materials like wool or cotton.The skirts fell just above or at the knee.Women decorated some skirts with ribbons and black and white beads. Duringthis time period, Cherokee women alsowore European style, ankle-lengthlinen skirts.Moccasins: Made from braintanned or smoke-tanned deerskin,Cherokee moccasins were distinguishedby long flaps on their sides. They couldbe decorated with beads, ribbons, bellsand porcupine quills. The wives ofpriests were said to have worn whitemoccasins dyed with kaolin.Smokies Guide Summer 2018 7Jewelr y/Ornamentation:Women wore up to two piercedearrings per ear, and perhaps a necklace made from glass or copper beads.Tattooing was thought to be common.Ornamentation for Cherokee women’slong hair might have included feathers,silver and pieces of finger weaving.Shirt/Jacket: Often made oflinen or calico and fastened withbreast buckles. Some were decoratedwith beads and trims and were sewnwith or without sleeves. Typically thesegarments were long, covering the hips.Leggings: Made from deer, elk orgroundhog skin, these practical itemsreached from mid-thigh to the foot andmade it possible for the wearer to runthrough thick briers and underbrush.Modern Cherokee profess they are warm inwinter and cool in summer. General GeorgeWashington was so impressed by the functionality of leggings that he ordered hundreds of pairs for his troops. Leggings wereattached to a belt with strings and could bedecorated with lace, beads, copperand silver bells.For more information on Cherokee clothing,visit the Museum of the Cherokee Indianin Cherokee, NC, and pick up a copy ofBarbara Duncan’s book Cherokee Clothingin the 1700s. Cherokeemuseum.org

To KnoxvilleTo Newportayk w r)Parinteslwlhi i n321Cosbyot dFo(closeExit443HartfordCHEROKEE NATIONAL FORESTExit447Park View416129411441PIGEON FORGEGatlinburg Welcome CenterNational ParkInformation Center32173321Hen Wallow FallsRoaring Fork MotorNature TrailMountCammererTrailGab40ek TrailCreRnunt aiMoRichRAlum CaveBluffsChimneyTopsBiganTrailION ATNewfoundGapRoad ProngTrailOconalufteeValleyOverlookChasteenCreek aLakeHRTkevieJuney WhankFalls TrailwDral aSwain CountyVisitor Center28 GSMA2018ge

blooming of flowers such as Lady Slipper Orchids in May and the mat-ing rituals of synchronous fireflies in June. We are learning that climate . LeConte Lodge (accessible by trail only) provides the only lodging in the park. 865.429.5704 or