PINBALL PLANS

2y ago
4 Views
1 Downloads
376.62 KB
6 Pages
Last View : 2m ago
Last Download : 3m ago
Upload by : Dani Mulvey
Transcription

Pinball PlansPINBALL PLANSMy grandfather's 70-year-old bagatelle game still provides hours of fun on those rainy Muskoka-cottage days. His timeless designinspired my own version which includes movable flippers similar to those on today's electronic pinball machines. Your own modificationscan increase or reduce the level of difficulty - you may want to change the number of point holes, pins, or flippers.The instructions for the frame uses 'finger joints', but any good quality butt joint, dovetail or mortise and tenon joint will work fine.Tools Needed:- Sabre saw or band saw- table saw or radial arm saw- drill- 5/16" bit, 3/4" bitMaterials list:- 2" x 3/4" x 96" mahogany- 2' x 4' mahogany door skin- 2' x 4' x 1/4" birch veneer particle board- 1' x 2' x 3/4" pine- 8" x 5/16" dowel- 2' surgical tubing- 8" of 5/16" x 1/2" poplar- 6" of picture-hanging wire- 5/16" x 1 9/16" wooden pins- 3/4" diameter wooden balls- wooden drawer pulls- 2" x 3/8" compression spring- 1 5/8" x 3/16" expansion springs- 1/4" diameter screw eyes- 3/4" square self-adhesive rubber feet- 3/4" washers with 5/16" holes- Self-adhesive numbers (Letraset)Quantity11111111226212742Finished cut size:PartDescriptionABCDEFG2" x 3/4" x 18" mahogany2" x 3/4" x 28" mahogany17 1/8" x 27 1/8" mahogany door skin17 18" x 27 1/8" x birch fibreboard8 1/4" x 16 5/8" x 3/4" pine4 7/8" x 4 7/8" x 3/4" pine18 3/4" x 5/8" x 3/4" pineQuantity2211121For smaller parts H to T, refer to illustrations and templates.INSTRUCTIONS:1. Set up a blade-thickness finger joint jig and make the "cuts" for the finger joints into the ends of parts A, 3/4" html (1 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]

Pinball Plans2. Cut the "fingers" in the ends of parts B. Use the mated end of part A as your guide to cut the first finger.3. Rout a 1/4" deep x 3/8" wide groove in parts A and B, 1" from the top side. Be sure to stop 3/8" from the ends. To protect the fingerjoints from chipping while routing, make two more finger joints from scrap mahogany and insert them into the ends of A and B.4. Use a 3/4" bit to cut holes into part D, (see illustration). Use the distance chart for point holes.5. Glue part C to underside of part D.6. Apply glue to the grooves and finger joints of parts A and B.7. Join bottom part A and parts B and insert the joined parts C/D into the groove. Complete the frame attaching the top part A. Tap thefinger joints tight and clamp. Check that the corners are square. Nail a 1 1/2" finishing nail through the fingers from the underside.8. Drill 5/16" holes for the pins through parts C/D, (see illustration).9. Cut the surgical tubing into 3/4" lengths and push it over the closed ends of long needlenose pliers. Spread the tubing open and fit itonto the wooden pins so the tubing butts up to the underside of the pin heads.10. Glue all pins in place except for those in the flippers.11. Use the included diagram to cut part E from 3/4" pine. Sand part E smooth and glue it into place using clamps at the fine ends.12. Cut part G from 3/4" pine, round the top end, then sand and glue 7/8" from part B on the right side of the frame.13. Cut parts F from 3/4" pine. Sand and glue in place using clamps on the fine ends.14. Once parts E and F have dried, remove clamps and sand the fine ends to blend in with the side walls of parts A, B, and G. This willhelp the balls roll smoothly.15. Cut pieces H, J, K, and L; then sand and glue in place. Be sure to provide at least 7/8" clearance from any pin. Note: part I will be setin place later.16. Cut parts M as per diagram, sand, and drill 5/16" holes to accept pins. Glue the pins into place flush to the tops of parts M.17. Cut parts Q from poplar, drill 5/16" holes, sand, and screw in eye hooks as shown in the flipper-assembly diagram.18. Slip metal washers over pins in parts M and push through the holes from the top of the game. Turn the board over and push parts Qin place at a 45 degree angle to the flippers. Mark a line across parts P and the end of the pins. This allows you to drill a small hole toaccept a reinforcing brad. Replace the pins; then glue and insert the brad.19. Cut a 3 1/2" length of 5/16" dowel - part P- and glue it into the wooden knob. Cut a 1/4" length of tubing and roll it onto part P, up tothe knob. This will eliminate any noise of the knob hitting part A. Screw an eye into the end of the dowel. Drill a 5/16" hole into the lowerpart of A, centred between part G and the left-side of B, low enough to clear the door skin. (Use a file to enlarge the hole)20. Attach the picture wire and expansion springs as shown. Before you nail and glue part R (cut from poplar), position it for comfortabletension and so that it provides enough kick for the flippers. The angle of the flippers can be adjusted by the length of picture wire youuse.21. Cut another length of dowel 3 1/2" long for part 0. Sand dowel until the 5/16" compression spring slides smoothly.22. Cut part N from 3/4" pine and drill a 5/16" hole for the dowel. Glue and nail from the underside.23. Drill a 5/16" hole 5/8" from the top edge and 1 1/8" from the corner of the board's right-hand side. This hole accepts the dowel for theshooter. File it larger for a smooth flow.24. Slip the spring on the dowel and push it through the hole; then roll on the 1/4" length of tubing and glue it to the knob.25. Cut leg pieces S and T from the remaining 3/4" pine. Mitre and glue the L-shaped legs in place; then drill the holes and use drywallscrews to fasten the legs securely to the inside of parts A and B. Attach rubber feet.26. Now you are ready to complete part I. It is very important that part I be positioned correctly to allow the best deflection from pin X sothat the ball can bounce back up the board to the right-hand side and not down to the left. Hold part I with your left hand and use yourright hand to shoot a ball up the board around part E. It should bounce off pin X in the correct direction. Glue I in place and sand the fineends smooth to side l (2 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]

Pinball Plans27. Stain and finish as desired. I used five coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish.28. Apply the self-adhesive numbers, (see illustration).Note: All points are attainable. Because the wooden balls are not 100-per-cent round, they will bounce in a never-ending variety ofdirections.DISTANCE CHART FOR PINS:DISTANCE CHART FOR POINT HOLES:Measure down from top edge of part D first,then across from the left side to the center of the hole.POINTSDOWNACROSS102"7 3/4"1003 3/4"7 3/4"205 3/4"4 1/8"205 3/4"11 1/4"507 3/4"7 3/4"3012 1/4"3 1/4"3012 1/4"12 1/4"5016 1/4"7 3/4"4019 7/8"3 1/4"4019 7/8"12 1/4"1025 3/8"7 3/4"526 3/4"6 1/4"526 3/4"9 1/4"Measured after assembly on inside measurements.DOWNACROSS4 1/2"3 3/8"4 1/2"4 5/8"4 1/2"10 5/8"4 1/2"11 5/8"7 1/8"6 1/2"7 1/8"8 1/2"8 1/4"7 1/2"11 1/2"1 1/4"11 1/2"4 3/4"12 1/8"11 1/4"12 1/8"12 3/4"14 7/8"1 1/4"14 7/8"4 3/4"16 1/8"6 3/4"16 1/8"8 1/4"16 3/4"7 1/2"17 1/8"14 3/4"22 3/4"3 7/8"22 3/4"11 1/8"24 1/8"4 7/8"24 1/8"10 1/8"26 1/8"7 tml (3 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]

Pinball PlansBACK LEG ml (4 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]FRONT LEG 'S'

Pinball html (5 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]

Pinball html (6 of 6) [2/28/2003 5:48:11 PM]

Pinball Plans 2. Cut the "fingers" in the ends of parts B. Use the mated end of part A as your guide to cut the first finger. 3. Rout a 1/4" deep x 3/8" wide groove in parts A and B, 1" from the top side. Be sure to stop 3/8" from the ends. To protect the finger

Related Documents:

209 Elvira and the Party Monsters (Bally 1995) Visual Pinball 210 Elvis (Stern 2004) Visual Pinball 211 Embryon (Bally 1980) Visual Pinball 212 Escape (Royal 1987) Visual Pinball 213 Escape from the Lost World (Bally 1987) Visual Pinball 214 Evil Fight (Playmatic 1980) Vi

The first pinball machine with a moving target. 1966 - Bazaar (Bally Mfg.). The first pinball machine with zipper flip-pers. 1968 - Williams increases flipper from 2” to the current 3” size. 1971 - Challenger (D. Gottlieb & Co.). The first 2-player head-to-head pinball machine. 1971 - 200

WPC: Williams Pinball Controller The WPC boardset was developed by Williams (Williams Electronic Games) and used in their pinball machines starting in 1990. They used it in all pinball machines they produced (and some additional arcade / redemption machines such as Slugfest, Hot Shots,

Houdini Harry Houdini was a world famous magician who pioneered the art of illusion. He is also the main character in an awesome pinball machine developed by American Pinball. Plumb Bob Tilt Weight on Tilt Assembly. P3-ROC Board Designed to control all of the real-time signaling features on a pinball machine.

Zen Pinball on PS3. This Table has been brought over to the Pinball FX2 Platform on Xbox 360. The have been slight modifications through this transfer like the Table Interruptions occurring less often as its Zen Pinball Brother. The Table has a lot of variation when it comes to Mission Modes which we will get into further in this Guide.

list of pinball systems we have a kit for. 4. Preparation Read and understand this manual. Contact us if you have any questions! Sales@pinnovators.com Unplug the Pinball Machine! Next remove the back glass on the system and open the light board to expose the System circuit boards. The

Jurassic Park workers, evacuate the rest of the people from the affected area, contain the fierce predators and hunt them down one by one in this action-packed pinball jungle! Add to all that various audio works from the characters of the film themselves to add that extra bit of authenticity. I hope my Guide will help you understand the Table .

The ASM Handbook should be regarded as a set of actions implemented by the ECAC States to be used in conjunction with the EUROCONTROL Specification for the application of the Flexible Use of Airspace (FUA). The ASM Handbook should neither be considered as a substitute for official national regulations in individual ECAC States nor for the ASM Part of the ICAO European Region Air Navigation .