DIAMOND HILL COUNTY GALWAY
YOUR TRAVEL MAGAZINEHeritageFood & DrinkCultureOutdoorsOn LocationMB20GBR01TILDIAMOND HILLCOUNTY GALWAYHISTORICLANDMARKSFAbulous Food& DRINKIRELAND’SCULTURETHE GREATOUTDOORSIRELANDON SCREENDrama and romancein Ireland’s castlesDelicious feasts totempt the taste budsUrban escapes filledwith warm welcomesWalking Ireland’stracks and trailsDiscover real-life Westerosin Northern Ireland
WelcomeWELCOMETO IRELANDIfIf modernmodern lifelife hashas leftleft youyou yearningyearning forfor moremore authenticauthenticexperiences,experiences, thenthen thethe islandisland ofof IrelandIreland isis thethe perfectperfectantidote.antidote. YouYou see,see, IrelandIreland isis moremore thanthan justjust aadestination,destination, it’sit’s aa feeling feeling It’sIt’s thethe thrillthrill ofof standingstanding atat thethe toptop ofof Donegal’sDonegal’s SlieveSlieveLeagueLeague cliffscliffs alongalong thethe WildWild AtlanticAtlantic Way.Way. It’sIt’s thethesensationsensation youyou getget atat aa traditionaltraditional IrishIrish musicmusic session,session,suchsuch asas thethe onesones thatthat kickkick offoff inin MattMatt Molloy’sMolloy’s ofofWestport,Westport, CountyCounty Mayo,Mayo, oror thethe HouseHouse ofof McDonnellMcDonnellinin Ballycastle,Ballycastle, CountyCounty Antrim.Antrim.It’sIt’s thethe coolcool touchtouch ofof thethe ancientancient stonesstones thatthat dotdotthethe islandsislands ofof LoughLough Erne,Erne, CountyCounty Fermanagh.Fermanagh. TheTheshipbuildingshipbuilding heritageheritage ofof Belfast:Belfast: thethe citycity thatthat builtbuilt thetheTitanic.Titanic. AndAnd thethe chancechance toto seesee thethe real-lifereal-life locationslocationsforor thethe viewsviews fromfrom aa JediJedifor HBO’sHBO’s GameGame ofof ThronesThrones orknight’sknight’s islandisland hideaway,hideaway, asas seenseen inin StarStar Wars.Wars. It’sIt’sthosethose 100,000100,000 welcomeswelcomes youyou getget fromfrom thethe people.people.TheyThey saysay youyou shouldshould alwaysalways listenlisten toto youryour heart.heart. RightRightnow,now, IrelandIreland cancan fillfill youryour heartheart withwith thethe goodgood stuff.stuff. Ireland.comCONTENTS44HistoricHistoric LandmarksLandmarksTakeTake aa triptrip intointo Ireland’sIreland’s fascinatingfascinating pastpast88FabulousFabulous FoodFood && drinkdrinkGetGet stuckstuck intointo thethe flavoursflavours ofof IrelandIreland1212Ireland’sIreland’s CultureCultureAA culturalcultural adventureadventure throughthrough festivals,festivals,literatureliterature andand threethree ofof thethe island’sisland’s greatgreat citiescities1616TheThe GreatGreat OutdoorsOutdoorsHeadHead intointo naturenature toto enjoyenjoy somesome ofof Ireland’sIreland’s bestbestoutdooroutdoor delightsdelights2020IrelandIreland OnOn ScreenScreenSeeSee whywhy IrelandIreland isis aa starstar ofof filmfilm andand TVTV2424PlacesPlaces toto staystayB&Bs,B&Bs, castles,castles, campingcamping andand eco-friendlyeco-friendly accommodationaccommodation2626AA golfgolf coursecourse calledcalled IrelandIrelandSampleSample somesome ofof thethe island’sisland’s amazingamazing golfgolf coursescourses2727IrelandIreland informationinformationYourYour essentialessential guideguide toto thethe islandisland ofof IrelandIrelandPUBLISHEDPUBLISHEDBYBYL;S 2MIXPaper fromt&lptlftliibl et.lLlt'CMFSC" C016201PEACEPEACE BRIDGEBRIDGEDERRYDERRY LONDONDERRYLONDONDERRY o Tourism INTING:WW&&GGBAIRDBAIRD3
HeritageHISTORIC LANDMARKSIreland’s historic landmarks are not all about bricks andmortar. As you walk up the 800-year-old stone steps atHook Head Lighthouse in County Wexford; wander through the17th century pleasure gardens at Loughcrew in County Meath; orstare up at a round tower built nearly 900 years ago by monks atDevenish Island in Lough Erne, County Fermanagh – it’s good totake some time to absorb the history embedded in these walls.Nothing captures the imagination quite like a good story, andon the island of Ireland, you don’t have to look far to find one. Intowns and villages, on hillsides and cliff-edges – especially aroundIreland’s Ancient East – you’ll find battlements, fortifications andhistoric mansions that fizz with tales of lavish parties, fascinatingcharacters and even a ghost or two. Take the eerie 16th centuryLeap Castle in County Offaly, which claims to be the “world’smost haunted location”. Or Carrickfergus, a Norman strongholdin County Antrim, which has been besieged by the Scots, Irish,English and French over its 800 year history. And just becausethe island’s grand country houses look genteel, it doesn’t meanthey don’t have their own tales of intrigue, like Westport Housein County Mayo. Today, it may be the very picture of aristocraticelegance, but step down into the dungeons and you can seethe remains of the castle that once belonged to the notorious16th century pirate queen, Grace O’Malley.Ireland’s early Christian history is also packed with fascinatingstories and beautiful settings. Dating from the mid-6th century,Clonmacnoise was established by St Ciarán on an idyllic site onthe River Shannon – stroll around here and you’re catapulted backto an age of “saints and scholars”. At Gallarus Oratory on SleaHead in County Kerry, you can still experience what drew monkshere hundreds of years ago – heart-stirring views of the broodingThree Sisters coastal peaks and the vast coastal bay of SmerwickHarbour. And on St Patrick’s Trail, which weaves through keysites linked to Ireland’s patron saint in counties Armagh andDown, beauty abounds, especially at tranquil Saul Church.It’s inevitable that a journey into Ireland’s past will lead toIreland’s cities, whether it’s the Viking history of Dublin andWaterford or Titanic-era Belfast. And, whichever one you visit, acompelling piece of history awaits. Walk the 400-year-old walls inDerry Londonderry, where cannons roared during the 17th century.Travel back to the Middle Ages with a stroll along Kilkenny’sMedieval Mile. Or imagine the life of a Norman soldier at the13th century King John’s Castle in Limerick. On the island of Ireland,you can experience history like never before. 4DEVENISH ISLANDCOUNTY FERMANAGH5
PHOTO: GARETH MCCORMACKHeritage12435STEP INTOTHE STORIESMuseums, galleries and visitor attractions on theisland of Ireland bring the past to life, from the hopesand dreams of emigrants to the creativity of the Celts1 The National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology DublinThe big draw at the National Museum is Ireland’s Bronze Agejewellery. Exquisitely crafted between 2200BC and 500BC, it’sone of the most important prehistoric gold collections in Europe.Within the museum, you’ll also find remarkably preserved bogbodies from the Iron Age, an exhibition on Viking Ireland andthe beautifully decorated 8th century Ardagh Chalice.2 Titanic Belfast BelfastThis monumental museum stands at the head of the slipwayswhere the “Ship of Dreams” was built. Inside, nine interactivegalleries with original artefacts, dramatic recreations andinteractive features allow you to fully immerse yourself in thehistory of the Titanic and the vibrant city that built her.3 Waterford treasures WaterfordReputed to be Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford is packed withhistory and the best place to uncover it is in the trio of museums6CASTLESOF DREAMS6called the Waterford Treasures. Here, the Medieval Museum,Bishop’s Palace and Reginald’s Tower (pictured) recount thestory of the city, from its foundations 1,100 years ago by theVikings to an era of Georgian opulence in the 18th century.4 Derryglad Folk and Heritage Museum County RoscommonIreland’s history is about big dramatic events, but it’s also aboutthe life and times of ordinary people. At this small familyowned museum you’ll discover a trove of humble objects thatshow what life was really like not so very long ago. Examinehorse-drawn farm machinery, browse the display of school life,and visit a reconstructed 1930s bar and grocery – the heart ofevery country town.5 Ulster American Folk Park County TyroneEmigration to the New World is central to Ireland’s story, andat this vast folk park you can walk into houses from the period,both Irish and American. The buildings were either moved fromtheir original sites, or replicated, and show both what people leftbehind and the new lives they created. Costumed characters telltheir stories and build a bridge to the past.6 Powerscourt Estate County WicklowIn the 17th and 18th centuries, a rich and vain aristocracy soughtto make their mark with huge houses and sprawling grounds– and they don’t come much grander than Powerscourt.Located on a commanding hilltop position with views of theGreat Sugarloaf Mountain, Powerscourt is a showstopper withexquisite gardens that unfold over 47 acres. Welcome to the ageof elegance! Ireland.comDUNGUAIRE CASTLECOUNTY GALWAYIreland’s castles are set in some of the most beautifulparts of the island, from tranquil lakefronts to the edgeof dramatic coastal cliffs. We look at threeof the most captivating Travel around Ireland and you’ll quickly discover that castleshere have the power to stop you in your tracks with theirsheer good looks. Whether it’s a crumbling 12th century pileoverlooking a glassy lake, a gracious Baronial mansion set inglistening green fields or a dramatic cliffside ruin pounded bywaves, these structures never fail to surprise and delight.A good place to start is with Dunguaire Castle. Nestled onthe south shore of Galway Bay, this 16th century tower houseis built on the site of a 7th century fort. It’s fairly modest – ascastles go – but its history takes in the clans of Ireland, QueenElizabeth I of England, the Celtic revival of the early 20 th centuryand a divorce case so scandalous that it triggered a change inthe law. With the waters of Galway Bay to the north, and thebarren, rocky landscape of County Clare’s Burren to the south,Dunguaire has one of the most scenic locations on the island. Nowonder it’s the most photographed castle in the west!If it’s pretty countryside replete with woods, fields and riversyou’re after, head for Huntington Castle in County Carlow. Thisdramatic structure was built as a garrison in 1625, probably onthe site of an abbey, which in turn replaced an ancient temple,so it’s no surprise that it’s filled with legends, including ghostlydruids and weeping ladies. Take a tour around the castle withowner Alexander Durdin-Robertson, whose descendants havebeen living here since the 17th century, and you’ll discover"dunguaire has one of the most scenic locationson the island of ireland. no wonder it’s the mostphotographed castle in the west"everything from the stories behind the portraits, to a remarkabletemple in the basement that is devoted to the Egyptian goddess,Isis. And don’t miss the gardens at Huntington – laid out in the1680s, they’re filled with lawns, ponds and beautiful woodland.For a total contrast, go north as far as you can go, to Antrimon the rugged Causeway Coast, where you’ll find the ruins ofDunluce Castle. Perched on a craggy outcrop that’s pounded bythe waves, Dunluce is accessible over a footbridge, with a stoutheart and steady feet. It seems a remote and dangerous place tolive – a ship from the Spanish Armada was wrecked on the rocks,and a pair of lovers met their end below the castle – yet this wildspot is enchanting. The Earl of Ulster built the first castle hereback in the 13th century, on an old Viking fort, and by the mid 16thcentury, it was fought over by rival clans – it’s even attracted thebanshee (a mythical wailing female spirit), according to legend.And you can see why: this stretch along the cliffs of Antrimlifts the heart and refreshes the soul with some of the finestviews around. 7
Food & DrinkFABULOUS FOOD & DRINKSeafood chowder by the fire in a wind-whipped coastalpub. Traditional Irish stew in the surrounds of an18th century market. Afternoon tea overlooking a misty lough.Food in Ireland isn’t just about the taste; it’s about the place, theexperience, the land and sea, and the people who created it.Whether you’re enjoying beautifully crafted dishes of local,seasonal produce in Wine & Brine, Moira, County Armagh, orsavouring a bowl of Killary Harbour mussels at the MisunderstoodHeron food truck in the wild surrounds of County Galway’sKillary Fjord, it’s bound to be memorable.To get to the heart and soul of food on the island of Ireland, afarmers’ market is a good place to start. Here, busy stalls ladenwith artisan cheese, local charcuterie, beech-smoked Irishsalmon, soda breads and mountain lamb reflect the richness andvariety of what’s on offer. Farmers’ markets take place all overthe island, usually – but not exclusively – on the weekend. Someto look out for include the Midleton Farmers’ Market in CountyCork, Kilkenny Farmers’ Market in the medieval city of Kilkenny,and the Walled City Market in Derry Londonderry.Occupying a special place in the hearts of Cork city locals, theEnglish Market has been around since 1788 and is a great place topick up traditional specialties such as drisheen (blood sausage)and pigs’ trotters, as well as freshly baked bread, fish, cheese andthe Cork favourite – spiced beef. In Belfast, foodies favour thehistoric surrounds of the 19th century St George’s Market (Fri-Sun)for everything from wild venison to fudge.Beyond the markets, the island is packed with pubs, restaurantsand cafés where you can taste traditional Irish food. Order a glassof Guinness and settle down to centuries of tradition with anIrish stew at Hargadon’s grocery-pub in Sligo or an Ulster fry atMaggie May’s in Belfast. And keep your eye out on menus forboxty (a potato pancake), coddle (a Dublin dish of bacon, sausageand potato), a Waterford blaa (a soft, floury bread roll unique tothe city), and, of course, Irish whiskey, Irish stout, local craft beersand artisan gins.Travel around and it’s not hard to see the excitementsurrounding the food scene right now, from food festivals torestaurant-packed city streets. But visit during autumn, andyou’ll be treated to a whole three months of culinary celebrationswith the Taste the Island series of events. Taking in a range offood and drink experiences like distilleries and breweries, foodtrails, festivals, cookery classes and even a bit of foraging it’s agreat way to experience local culture, through your taste buds! 8HOOK HEADCOUNTY WEXFORD9
Food & DrinkGREAT FOOD TOURSFood tours are the perfect way to experience thepure flavours and traditional foods of each localityon the island of Ireland.Ireland is undergoing a food revolution as the farmers,fishermen, producers and chefs realise that their green isleboasts some of the purest, richest flavours in the world. Andfood tours have become a popular way for locals and visitorsalike to experience the best of each locality.“People always tell us they wish they had done the tour atthe start of their trip,” says Caroline Wilson, who runs Taste &Tour NI’s food and drink-focused walking tours of Belfast city.“They’re amazed at the variety on offer – and they love thatthey’re getting to meet locals and not just other tourists.”Each tour has its own distinct personality, too. About anhour and a half down the road from Belfast, Enniskillen TasteExperience uncovers several sides to this historic town’s food– from local butcher Pat O’Doherty’s Fermanagh Black Bacon,reared on the peaceful pastures of Lough Erne’s Inish Corkishisland, to contemporary fine-dining at 28 Darling Street.Want to find out more about the foodie city of Cork? Theknowledgeable guides of Fab Food Trails will give you the insidestory on Cork’s historic English Market, where products such astripe carry a piece of local history within them. Galway FoodTours’ Around the Marketplace starts with Atlantic oystersand Irish farmhouse cheese at the medieval city’s belovedfarmers’ market before you get to meet the producers and tastethe flavours of award-winning restaurants and cafés. And inDerry Londonderry, the Made in Derry Food Tour takes in streetfood, craft beers and local cheese on a four-hour stroll to discoverover 25 local food and drinks in the surrounds of this historicwalled city.Alternatively, you could dive deep into Ireland’s fertilelandscape. Taste Wexford’s Flour, Feathers and Fruit tour takesyou to a traditional stone-ground mill, a strawberry farm and anorganic pig and chicken farm in one afternoon; while a foragingtour with Wild Food Mary in the heart of County Offaly mightyield hedgerow herbs, fruits and flowers or autumnal berries andchanterelles, depending on the season.But what all these tours have in common is this: the chanceto mingle with local people for a few memorable hours, whilejoining them in rediscovering their ancient food heritage andcreating a place for it in the island’s identity.234 "People are amazed at the variety of food on offer,and love that they’re getting to meet the locals andnot just other touristsFORAGINGCOUNTY LEITRIMTASTE & TOURBELFAST1"TASTE THE WILDATLANTIC WAY1234IRELAND’SNATURALFLAVOURSGreat flavours, passionate producers and traditionshanded down through generations: there’s never beena better time to enjoy a true taste of IrelandWith bountiful oceans and fertile fields, Ireland’s producetranslates into pure deliciousness on the plate. Take beeffor starters. Rich green pastures and small-scale farmingmake grass-fed beef the standard on the island of Ireland. Wantto try it for yourself? Check out the Wagyu beef burgers atDerry Londonderry’s Pyke ’N’ Pommes food truck, or Hannan’sGlenarm Shorthorn Himalayan salt-aged sirloin at Balloo Housein County Down.Lamb is the bedrock on which one of Ireland’s most famousdishes, Irish stew, is built. This casserole of lamb, potatoes,onions and carrots might be simple, but it’s enduringly popularand reflects a culinary tradition of cooking over an open fire.10Pyke ’N’ Pommes Derry LondonderrySheridans Cheesemongers GalwayHarry’s Shack County LondonderryGlenarm Shorthorn County AntrimFrom its origins in the late 1970s, Ireland’s farmhouse cheesescene has grown into one of the most exciting in Europe, withpunchy new styles, including Young Buck raw milk blue cheeseand well established favourites such as Durrus, Killeen and StTola. A visit to a cheesemaker, such as Cashel Farmhouse Cheesein County Tipperary, is a great way to find out more about thecheese-making process, and farmers’ markets are ideal formeeting local producers and tasting artisan products.The flavours of the shoreline are showcased on the Tastethe Atlantic trail along the Wild Atlantic Way, with tours ofsmokehouses, seafood producers and oyster farms. Keep youreye out in restaurants all along the island’s coastline for smokedAtlantic salmon, oysters, mussels and crab.It’s not just the fine-dining restaurants or traditional pubswhere you can sample the ocean’s bounty, either. Enjoy fishfresh off the boat at Harry’s Shack on Portstewart Strand inCounty Londonderry or award-winning chowder at KillybegsSeafood Shack, overlooking the fishing port of Killybegs inCounty Donegal. For something a little different, make sure totry some of the island’s seaweeds, such as dulse or carrageenmoss from the Antrim coastline.And with a new generation of well-travelled chefs eager toexplore the island’s extraordinary natural larder, enjoying thegreat tastes of Ireland has never been easier! 11
CultureIRELAND’S CULTUREIreland’s spirit can’t be captured; it has to be lived. The stories,scenery, songs and special atmosphere are what bring peopleback here, time and again.With over 1,865 miles/3,000km of coastline, the ocean hasan inescapable influence on Ireland’s culture, especially in thetowns and villages scattered along its shores. From the currachboats unique to the west of Ireland to the lighthouses that standon rocky headlands, the way of life here is dominated by theocean. Ireland’s coastal communities play a huge part in keepingthe Irish language alive, with many speaking their nativetongue every day, in areas that are known as Gaeltachtaí. VisitAchill Island in County Mayo, or the western parts of the DinglePeninsula in Kerry and you’ll hear locals using Irish. Further northin County Antrim and along the Ards Peninsula, the same is truefor speakers of Ulster-Scots (Ullans), whose vibrant traditionalmusic and dance traditions keep the culture alive.For a small island, Ireland’s contribution to world literature isimmense. From playwrights to poets, songwriters to storytellers,Ireland’s literary heritage takes in four Nobel prizewinners(George Bernard Shaw, WB Yeats, Samuel Beckett and SeamusHeaney), and continues to thrive today with Pulitzer prizewinningpoet Paul Muldoon, and award-winning novelists such as EimearMcBride, Emma Donoghue, Colm Tóibín and Anna Burns. Thesewriters follow a historic tradition of storytelling across the islandof Ireland, which once took the form of folklore, heroic tales andmyths passed down by people known as seanchaí. The ancientart of storytelling is today celebrated at events such as the CapeClear Island Storytelling Festival in County Cork (Sept), as wellas popular literature festivals such as Listowel Writers’ Week,County Kerry (May); Dalkey Book Festival, County Dublin (June);and the Hillsborough Festival of Literature and Ideas in CountyDown (April). And in Dublin – a UNESCO City of Literature – youcan get the whole story at the new Museum of Literature Ireland,which boasts multimedia exhibitions and priceless artefacts.Of course, while many a story has been told in the firelit, stonefloored surrounds of a traditional Irish pub, they’re more famousas places to hear a spot of music. Dotted around the island, fromthe cosmopolitan cities of Cork and Waterford to quiet ruralspots such as the 17th century thatched cottage of Crosskeys Inn,County Antrim, you’ll find hundreds of traditional pubs with aweekly roster of in-house musicians and guest performers. Dropin, sit back and enjoy the tunes. And if you’ve got the know-how,pull up a stool and join in the more the merrier. 12THE ROSTREVOR INNCOUNTY DOWN13
CultureFESTIVAL ISLANDCome rain or shine, festival season never stops inIreland, where there’s always something to celebrateand everyone loves a good partySpring12The island of Ireland springs to life with St Patrick’s Day onthe 17th March. Kicking off with the earliest festival at 6am inDingle, County Kerry, the festivities and parades spread aroundthe island from Dublin’s carnival-style party to the Home ofSt Patrick Festival in County Armagh and Down. April is whenthe Galway Food Festival makes its tasty mark on the west;while the super-fun Star Wars Day on May 4th celebrates someof the finest Star Wars locations on the Wild Atlantic Way. Stillhave room for more? Try the Belfast Maritime Festival along thecity’s quays with Tall Ships, nautical fun and great food.3SummerCelebrating summer vibes, Sea Sessions is the biggest surf andmusic festival in Ireland, bringing thousands to Bundoran inCounty Donegal. The Ould Lammas Fair sees traditional music,dancing, horse trading, artisan markets and more take over theseaside town of Ballycastle, County Antrim. And if it’s cultureyou’re after, you’re spoiled for choice with Bloomsday in Dublin;the Dalriada Festival in Glenarm Castle, County Antrim; and theacclaimed Carlow Arts Festival in Carlow town.5THREE CITIESWith 11 cities all boasting great food, easy-going localsand lots of culture, you’re sure to be busy on the islandof Ireland. We’ve got three to get you startedGreat for atmosphere: GalwayBig-hearted, bohemian and brimming with energy, Galway ispacked with the best of the west. Known as the “City of Tribes” –after the 14 medieval tribes who once ruled it – the people herehave cultivated a culturally diverse haven that remains true toits traditional roots. The streets of this city sing with an upbeatspirit literally! Galway is famed for its buskers, with ShopStreet, William Street and the historic Spanish Arch often alivewith music. Come evening time, traditional Irish music poursfrom the doorways of many a pub, with Tig Cóilí, Taaffes Bar andThe Crane Bar all famed for their great tunes. Add in Galway’sstatus as a UNESCO City of Film, its designation as EuropeanCapital of Culture in 2020, and the fact that it’s been named asone of Lonely Planet’s top ten cities to visit in their Best in Travel2020 guide, and you’ve the perfect city break sorted.Great for food: BelfastIt may be famous for building the Titanic, but right now, Belfast’sfood scene is flourishing with award-winning restaurants,trailblazing chefs and great local produce. Wondering where14Festival season seriously heats up in autumn, with the DublinTheatre Festival – 18 days of drama and delight – and the BelfastInternational Festival, with theatre, dance and visual arts. InCork, the famous Guinness Cork Jazz Festival takes centre stage,with internationally acclaimed blues and brilliance. But it’sthe spookiest celebration that steals the show every autumn:DerryHalloween is billed as the greatest Halloween party in theworld, featuring haunted houses, ghost walks and spectacularcostumes. Hot on its heels is the Púca Halloween Festival incounties Meath and Louth. Named after the Irish word for“ghost”, this fiesta takes scaring seriously!WINTERVoted best opera festival in the world, Wexford Festival Operabrings 12 whole days of operatic majesty to the southeast. Musicof a totally different kind can be enjoyed at the Atlantic Sessionsin Portrush and Portstewart with concerts in restaurants,hotels, bars and cafés along the Causeway Coast. Things getfestive in Dublin with both the Docklands Christmas Festivaland the New Year’s Festival, and as a new year unfolds, TradFestin the city’s Temple Bar area is the place to be, with traditionalmusic concerts and gigs. ST PATRICK’S FESTIVALDUBLIN6123456Music session GalwaySawers BelfastMuseum of Literature Ireland DublinGalway OystersBig Fish BelfastHa’penny Bridge DublinPHOTO: ST PATRICK’S FESTIVAL4AUTUMNto start? Head to St George’s Market (Fri-Sun) for fresh flavoursfollowed by the John Hewitt pub for a taste of Irish craft beers.You can sample the best innovative cooking at Michelin-starredrestaurants Ox and Eipic; enjoy seafood at the Mourne SeafoodBar and John Long’s – famous for its fish and chips; or try bigbowls of ramen, Irish-style, at Bia Rebel. Fancy something alittle different? The Titanic Belfast Sunday Afternoon Tea servesup tasty treats by the “Grand Staircase”.Great for culture: DublinDublin welcomes every visitor with a smile and the promise thatno trip will end without a story or two. It’s easy to see how thisViking city has inspired so many artists of every calling – andit loves to celebrate them, too, with free entry to the NationalGallery, the National Museums, the Hugh Lane Gallery and theIrish Museum of Modern Art. The city’s political history is bestappreciated with a tour of Dublin Castle, fascinating GlasnevinCemetery or spooky Kilmainham Gaol, while Trinity CollegeDublin is home to the 9th century illuminated manuscript, TheBook of Kells. For a truly immersive experience, join the DublinLiterary Pub Crawl and stroll around the watering holes ofIreland’s literary greats. And the best thing about Dublin? Younever know what’s waiting around the corner After all, Bonohimself has been known to busk on Grafton Street almost everyChristmas Eve – no ticket required. Ireland.com15
OutdoorsTHE GREAT OUTDOORSAkayaking trip down a glassy canal draped in greenery. Acycle around a lake overlooked by grand country housesand soaring forests. A walk along a windswept coastal trail bymarram grass-tufted sand dunes and crashing waves. VisitingIreland is all about getting outdoors and getting active.When it comes to adventures on two feet, Ireland serves up avast array of trails, paths, routes and even walking festivals forboth the novice and the experienced walker. You can enjoy edgeof-the-world views and blasts of salty sea air on cliff-edge pathsaround Slieve League in County Donegal, the Causeway Coast inNorthern Ireland and Loop Head in County Clare. You can escapeinto the rich green beauty of undulating valleys such as the Glenof Aherlow in County Tipperary. And you can weave around theremarkable granite outcrops of the Mourne Mountains in CountyDown. There are vast walking routes around Atlantic Oceanheadlands and short jaunts through ancient woods, and there’salways a warm welcome. Writer Christopher Somerville haswalked all over Europe but has a particular soft spot for Ireland.“I like walking here because the people are lovely, everything isvery manageable, and there’s a sense that you’re walking wherenot many outsiders do,” he explains. “There’s a weight of historyon every field and hillside.”And it’s not just walking that will allow you to uncover thathistory. Ireland’s waterways have witnessed everything fromhuge battles on the River Shannon to horse-drawn commercialbarges on the canals. Today they are places of pure beauty, edgedwith an abundance of ferns and reeds and humming with birdsand wildlife. Try a slow adventure on a paddleboard down theLough Allen Canal in County Leitrim. Head out into the darkon a night kayaking trip on Lough Hyne, County Cork, wherebioluminescence lights up the water like an explosion of stars. Orexplore the maze of bays, narrow channels and islands aroundboth Upper and Lower Lough Erne in County Fermanagh.If you want to cover miles of landscape without too much effort– a bicycle trip is most definitely the way to go. Take a guidedtour along the Wild Atlantic Way with your baggage transferredeach time you change location; self tour the charming townsand villages of Ireland’s Ancient East on a rented bike; or testyour limits on the 298-mile/480km-long Kingfisher Trail aroundLeitrim, Cavan, Fermanagh, Donegal and Monaghan.With cycling routes to suit any level – from casual sights
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