NATURAL WOOD Floor - 4.imimg

7m ago
20 Views
1 Downloads
2.81 MB
48 Pages
Last View : 4d ago
Last Download : 5m ago
Upload by : Madison Stoltz
Transcription

NATURAL WOOD floor Solid & Engineered Wood VOLUME I I

NOthing like the warmth of wood when you step in Let your floors of your already perfect home have the final clap. Give your floors the allnatural floors from Ego. Here’s presenting an exotic assortment of engineered and solid wood flooring. Unlike laminates, these Natural Wood flooring are made from 100% real wood that add a timeless appeal to your home interiors. Leaving aesthetics aside, they are also technically better equipped. They blend in naturally into any decor and also add a soothing effect, giving your home a glow that will be envied by all.

3

10 SOLIDWOOD & HERRINGBONE COLLECTION 16 ENGINEERED WOOD 32 GIANT COLLECTION

5 CONTENTS SOLIDWOOD & HERRINBONE COLLECTION 10 ENGINEERED WOOD 16 GIANT COLLECTION 32 EGO PROFILE 36 EGO RETAIL NETWORK 37 NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION 38 HERRINGBONE INSTALLATION 39 CLIC INSTALLATION 40 GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION 42 FAQ’S 43 GENERAL MAINTENANCE 44 EGO CARE PRODUCTS 45

ENGINEERED V/S SOLIDWOOD The main distinguishing factors between Engineered wood and Solidwood flooring is its panel construction. ENGINEERED wood 1-STRIP PLANK Multi - Layers of high quality finish Hardwood Surface Middle Surface Veneer Size : 13.5 x 136 x 2130 / 1820 / 1200 / 910 mm 9/16” X 5 11/32” X 7’ / 6’ Types : Premium or Classic Finish : Lacquered SOLIDWOOD - to be given Multi - Layers of high quality finish Hardwood Surface Middle Surface Size : 18 x 163 x 300-1200mm, 18*125*910/Random(mm), 15*90*960mm Types : Premium or Classic Finish : Lacquered, Oiled or Unlacquered *Techinacal specs and size may vary depending upon the availability of raw material

7 Others distinguishing factors: ENGINEERED FLOORS SOLIDWOOD FLOORS Dimensional stability The cross grain technology in engineered floors makes them dimensionally 70% more stable than conventional solid wood floors. This technology minimizes tension in wood and results flooring to be more resistance to shrinkage,gapping and warping Very prone to expansion, warping, cupping and shrinkage, to a significant degree when exposed to temperture changes. Resistance to moisture and heat Engineered floors are more resistant to both moisture and heat if compared to solid wood floors. Solid wood is unsuitable for applications at any location with increased moisture or high temperatures such as below-grade installation and over radiant heat. Resistance to climatic changes Engineered floors are more resistant to higher moisture levels than solid flooring and thus a better choice for installation over radiant heat sources, damp basemants, and at locations in rainy climates. Solid wood generally expands and contracts a lot more than engineered wood during climatic changes, especially extremes in heat and cold and rainy season. Real wood Engineered floors are not laminates. They are made from 100% real wood and so they exude the natural beauty and warmth of which is expected of solid wood floors. Solid wood flors are made of real wood. Precision in pre-finished Engineered floors are pre-finished in the factory. This results a higher precision and even application ( 1gm/m2) as compared to finishing at site Most solid wood floors are finished manually at site resulting non-precision result and this also makes the floors less durable and more prone to scratches and stains. In addition, the entire installation duration is also lengthened Floors have 6 layers of lacquer cured by UV light; which is only possible with machine application and thus, making them more durable and highly scratch and stain resistance. Pre-finished floors make installation 3 times fster as compared to unfinished solid floors. Frequency in re-sanding Ego Naturalwood floors can also be sanded upto 3 times. Solid wood floors can be sanded upto 3 times. They cannot be re-sanded once you get down to the “tongue”

DEAD KNOT live knots Sapwood small knots

9 characteristics of wood Wood is a living, breathing material. It ages over time like any natural material. Natural solid wood has characteristics which include knots, variations in grain, and color differences. Seasoning and drying the wood reduces splitting and warping, but some natural movement is to be expected. wood is a completely natural product, it is entirely normal that colour, knots and sap vary from species to species, from grade to grade and even from batch to batch. This is one of the things that makes wood so interesting. The thing that governs the colour variations, knots and sap content more than anything else, is the grade of the wood used to make the flooring planks. There are four grades of wood to choose from, they are: Prime or AB Select or ABC Natural or ABCD And Rustic or CD Although the names of the grades of wood may well suggest that certain grades might be better than others, it is important to point out that the grade of wood has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of the wood, it concerns itself purely with appearance. Equally, while many people may appreciate and prefer prime grade wood, there is nothing to suggest that a rustic grade won’t look great in the right setting. Regarding colour variations in wood, prime grade wood is highly consistent in its colour, with little variation, unless of course the wood itself is naturally variable, like some of the tiger woods for example. Select grade wood on the other hand, while still being fairly consistent, does feature more of a colour variation than prime grade. You should expect natural grade and rustic grade wood to show significant colour variations, but in many ways this can add to their charm, depending on the look you’re hoping to achieve. While knots are an intrinsic part of the make up of wood, generally speaking, the higher the grade of wood, the smaller the size of the knots and the fewer knots there are. Prime grade wood for example, while it does contain knots, features knots that are small and unobtrusive. The other grades of wood typically sport knots that increase in size, as you move down the list of grades. Finally, when it comes to sap, again the amount of sap in the wood increases as you descend the list of grades. Sapwood is the part of a tree that is situated on the outside of the trunk and is the youngest part of the tree. As the wood matures it contains less sap and the wood with the lowest sap tends to be found at the heart of the trunk. Clearly you would expect the higher the grade of wood, the lower the amount of sap and you would be absolutely correct. Going down the list from prime to rustic, you will find an increased level of in sap in the wood used to produce your floor.

THE SOLIDWOOD & HERRINGBONE COLLECTION

11 SOLIDWOOD COLLECTION There’s a timeless feeling of warmth in solid wood flooring. It has a beauty quotient and sophistication that is difficult to reproduce with other floor covering options. Solid wood floors are machined from one piece of timber and are available in a range of widths and thickness’s. These floors last a lifetime, although you can have it sanded and re-stained for a refreshing new look. It comes in a wide range of shades. HERRINGBONE COLLECTION Presenting the Herringbone Collection from Ego in three different shades ie Natural, Caramel, Royal Brown. Reflecting the best of flooring techniques, they have been a European traditional floor pattern for a long time. Herringbone is a pattern produced by alternating rows of strip flooring. They are installed one piece at a time, forming several distinct patterns. Most importantly, it can be installed like any other solid wood flooring in a linear form. Look out for our three unique shades in the new herringbone series From Ego. features AD48 - An air-dried finish that is easy to repair and maintain. Traditional and vintage look. Italian uneven surface and chiseled edges. Available in T&G. Solid wood Dimension -18 x 163 x 300-1200mm, 18*125*910/Random(mm), 15*90*960mm Herringbone Dimension -15 x 82.6 x 578.2mm TEST ITEM UNIT PHYSICAL PROPERTY STANDARD TEST RESULT SOLIDWOOD TEST RESULT HERRINGBONE Density kg/m3 700 761 768 Moisture content % 8-11% 9.80 9.30 Thickness Tolerance mm 0.5 18.20 15.30 Length Tolerance mm ‘ 0.5, -0.5 1200 578.10 Width Tolerance mm 0.3 163.10 / 125.10 82.60 Level difference between board mm 1.0 0.75 0.60 Angle difference (90degree) mm 0.2 0.06 0.03 Banana effect mm 0.15 0.10 0.10 compare to the master sample ok ok Concave (U) length 0.50%, width 0.15% L,凸0.25%; W:0 L,凸0.05%; W:0 Convex ( ) Length 0.50%, width 0.2% 500 500 Color difference Bending Abrasion Test 500 The Printed decors only give an impression of the real colors and variation of colors and tones in the design,but are not identical to the real color.

OAK 18 X 125 X 910 mm MERBAU 18 X 125 X Random mm

13 BAMBOO 15 X 90 X 960mm MANOR 18 X 163 X 300-1200 mm

ABBOT 18 X 163 X 300-1200 mm HERRINGBONE NATURAL 15 X 82.6 X 578.2 mm

15 HERRINGBONE CARAMEL 15 X 82.6 X 578.2 mm HERRINGBONE ROYAL BROWN 15 X 82.6 X 578.2 mm

THE ENGINEERED COLLECTION

17 ENEGINEERED WOOD COLLECTION Engineered wood flooring are constructed from several wood plies that are glued together. The two decorative layers are made of wood. The bottom layer is usually particle board or made of plywood. The cross ply veneer construction is ideal for a customized finish to their floors. There is a variety of engineered flooring to choose from. features Construction of the floor: a. 3 layer/multi layer of high quality finish b. Hardwood – surface: 3.6mm c. Solid wood middle layer: 8.4mm d. Solid wood base layer: 2.0mm e. Final Finish thickness above IPS – 17mm (14mm floor and 3mm foam) Coating: a. Lacquered or Coated – strictly material by KLUMPP, best because in top layer coating Ego Engineered flooring is finished with an Anti-Scratch top-coat. This produces more durable Ego Engineered flooring with high resistance against abrasion and scratch. Besides being durable, the coatings also fulfill the highest international environment standards and are environmentally – friendly. b. It is coated with Anti-scratch Agent (Aluminium Oxide) for extra protection for high traffic and commercial areas. c. Ego Engineered flooring could be resurfaced 2-3 times by removing the existing finish and recoating with a new compatible coating. d. Ego Engineered flooring uses miraphen UV-lacquers are free of formaldehyde, Organic Solvents, Halogenated Hydrocarbons, heavy metals, Pesticides, Herbicides and Insecticides. Type of joint: Patented Click System Moisture Content: 8% 2% Grade: specifically ‘A’ Timber Glue: Formaldehyde Chamber Test (E1) is a test to determine volume of formaldehyde emission from the board. The standard is set by the governing body in Europe. Test Standard Classification Gloss Value DIN 67530 / 60 degree 30 Inflammability DIN4102 B1 Pendulum hardness on glass DIN 53157 Minimum ca. 100 swings Abrasion resistance Aluminum oxide UV Coating ASTM 500 g weight wheel CS 17 stone 20,000 cycles Scratch resistance DIN 68861 TL 4 4C Cigarette test DIN 68861 TL 6 6C Heat test EN 12722 120 degree C Cross cut test DIN 53151 GT 0 The Printed decors only give an impression of the real colors and variation of colors and tones in the design,but are not identical to the real color.

WALNUT 1 STRIP 3/14 X 136 X 1820/2130 mm MERBAU 1 STRIP 3/13.5 X 136 X 1820/2130 mm

19 TEAK 1 STRIP 3/14 X 125 X 910 MM OAK 1 STRIP 3/13.5 X 136 X 1820/2130 mm

NOUGHAT 1 STRIP 3/13.5 X 185 X 1820/2130 mm NATURAL 1 STRIP 3/14 X 190 X 1900 mm

21 OAK TIBER 1 STRIP 3/13.5 X 185 X 1820/2130 MM Cognac 1 STRIP 3/13.5 X 185 X 1820/2130 mm

WALNUT 1 strip 4 / 15 X 190 X 19900 MM SmokeD Oak 1 strip 3/14.5 X 136 X 1820/2310 mm

23 oak carAmel 1 strip 3/13.5 X 185 X 1820/2310 mm TEAk 1 strip 4/15 X 190 X 1900 mm

grey rustic oak 3 / 13.5 X 185 X 1820 mm DOUSSIE 3 STRIP 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 mm

25 MERBAU 33 STRIP STRIP 3/13.5 3/13.5 XX 195 195 XX 2200 2200 MM MM OAK TERRA 3 STRIP 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 MM

Smoked Oak 3 STRIP 3/13.5 X 185 X 2200 mm Natural Oak 3 STRIP 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 mm

27 OAK HAVANA 3 strip 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 MM WALNUT 3 STRIP 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 mm

carbonized oak 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm teak 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm

29 oak 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm merbau 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm

smoked oak 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm black walnut 13/5 X 90 X 600 mm

31 FINE WINTER 3/13.5 X 195 X 2200 MM

THE GIANT COLLECTION

33 GIANT COLLECTION Preserve that vintage look in your house with our Giant Collection. This collection is a part of the Natural Wood Collection from the house of Ego. These engineered floorings combine structurally design stable quality floors with the latest in surface treatment technology. They are ideal high quality flooring planks for big rooms to give it that extra good feeling of timelessness. The three-layer construction is also very stable and come with 4 surface treatments. The colour and size makes sure your room looks perfect, always to impress and inspire. features The floor planks come in various crafts - brushed, smoked, wax oiled and hand scraped knots The planks are 1ft wide and have a length longer than most They have a thickness of about 6 mm, and act as a top layer to the plank PARTICULARS TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Dimenssion 6/20 X 300 X 2200 mm Length tolerance 1.00 mm ( 0.04”) Width tolerance 0.10 mm ( 0.004”) Thickness tolerance 0.20 mm ( 0.008”) Height difference maximum 0.20 mm ( 0.008 mm) Product type Multi- ply construction Face layer thickness 6 mm after sanding,tolerance / 0.2;saw cutting Middle layer 12.0 mm lumbercore, Plywood Bottom layer 2.0 mm slice veneer ; longitudinal joints of multi strips allowed; the patterns must be closed Face Layer type full length 1 piece face Edge preparation 4 - sides tongue and grooved Other Machining According to sample Moisture content 9% 2 % Glue bonding Formaldehyde Emission / E-1 glue Installation for Glue down or nail down SURFACE FINISHING Coating type Hard Wax Oiled Glossines factor 10 % 3 % Color ( optional ) Variation Stained Sq ft /BOX 28.42 Locking Tongue and groove The Printed decors only give an impression of the real colors and variation of colors and tones in the design,but are not identical to the real color.

SANTAREN 6/20 X 300 X 2200 mm QUIMPER 6/20 X 300 X 2200 mm

35 LYON 6/20 X 300 X 2200 mm OSLO 6/20 X 300 X 2200 mm

EGO PROFILES Ego Profile match our flooring in quality and shade. These profiles come in various shapes and cover all kinds of corners. Inlike locally procured profiles, Ego profiles ensure that the warranty on Ego flooring remains intact as long as its valid. Ego profile are 0.6mm thick with a high grade fiber board which makes it highly durable and long lasting. These profile come with channel which are placed behind them so that no nail marks are seen permanently. It is the only flooring company that has its own manufacturing unit with 30 shades available to choose from T-Profile Reducer Profile Skirting Stair Nose End Profile Beading Note : These profiles can be made with 100% wood and can be polished to match the flooring colors.

37 ego retail network Hisar Jodhpur Bareilly Allahabad www.egofloor.com

NAIL DOWN INSTALLATION TOOLS REQUIRED (not supplied) Safety gear- mask, goggles, square, hammer or nailing gun, tape measure, spacer wedges, pencil, saw, utility knife Solid wood flooring can be nailed over existing wood floorboards provided they are dry, firm and level. When installing over concrete subfloors lay a DPM followed by 18-24(12/16”-1”) Exterior Grade plywood first then nail the flooring into the plywood. 18mm(3/4”) solid wood should not be fixed over batters or directly over joists. 1. Lay a suitable polythene vapor barrier onto the substrate, overlap any seams by at least 200mm(7 7/8”) and securely tape to provide a suitable seal. Lay 18-24 mm(12/16”-1”) Exterior Grade plywood across the floor in the opposite direction to the length of the new boards, to provide a material into which the nails can fix. The plywood sheets should be butted together allowing a 15mm(5/8”) perimeter gap for expansion. Ensure that all underfloor pipe work is lagged before the floor is laid. This will prevent localized shrinkage in the floor from hot adjacent pipes. 2. Mark out a straight line parallel to the chosen wall, allowing a 15mm(5/8”) gap for expansion. It may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to achieve correct alignment. 3. Square the first row of boards to the pre marked line with the tongue facing into the room. Top nail* (top nail at 250-300 mm(9 7/8” - 11 13/16”) intervals or onto every joist, and where possible within 75mm(3”) of the end of each board and countersink through the boards as near to the wall as possible) *Top nailing is nailing the board to the subfloor through the top of the board 4. Using the same spacing, of 250-300mm(9 7/8” - 11 13/16”), secret nail at a 45 ensuring a countersink through the tongue. For ease a mechanical floor nailer can be used for this job. 5. Fit the next run of boards groove to tongue and secret nail. 6. Continue to fit the board from left to right. Always stagger the end joins by a minimum of 150mm(6”) and a maximum of 300mm(11 13/16”). Measure and trim the last board to fit, allowing for the 15mm(5/8”) expansion gap. Where possible, use off-cuts to start the next row. 7. For the last row of boards you can use the sandwich technique to measure the width of board required, ensuring that the row is not less than 10cm(4”) in width. Place the board for last row on top of the previous row. Using a full width of cut board and spacer wedges placed up against the wall, scribe the last row to mark the correct cutting line. 8. Top nail and countersink the last run of boards to finish. 9. All pipes, pillars, frames etc must be cut around to provide suitable expansion gaps.

HERRINGBONE INSTALLATION 39 Lay out the Room 1. Check the room for square ness. Measure the diagonals of the room. If they are equal, the room is square. 2. Two things must be considered when deciding on the orientation of the Herringbone patternA. The long dimension of the room. B. The pattern running to the major architectural interest point of the room.e.g. main entrance, window wall, or fireplace. 3. Pre-plan your working lines. It is usually best to center your first line along the orientation of the pattern (Drawing #1.) This line is called the “centerline.” Plan the layout, VI. Start installing flooring at intersection of all working lines. (The selected center point of a Herringbone Unit will be along the centerline.) 1. Place the first piece of flooring as shown in Drawing #5 and #5a. The tongue edge of the piece should face the far wall, with the tongue edge along the Starter Diagonal. The left corner of piece #1 should be aligned with the intersection of the reference line and baseline. 2. Place the second piece as shown in Drawing #5. and #5a.This piece must be perpendicular to piece #1. Use a small carpenter’s square to insure PRECISE ALIGNMENT, These two pieces determine the square ness of the entire installation. After a piece has been placed, there can be minor adjustments in alignment by tapping the piece with a rubber mallet. 3. Continue placing the pieces in the order shown in Drawing #5 & #5a. Continue with the pattern until reaching the far wall. Then work the pattern to the right, one row at a time, alternating the direction of the flooring. (Always orient the tongue in the same direction.) Start each row carefully. Use the square to align the starting piece on each row and periodically check alignment. Leave pieces that fit along walls as the last step. 4. Upon completing the upper right quadrant, go back to the intersection of the working lines and complete the upper left quadrant one row at a time. Carefully align the first piece of each row and periodically check alignment with the carpenter’s square. Alternate the direction of the flooring until upper quadrant is completed. 5. Continue in the two remaining areas. Start at the centerline and continue working the pattern backwards. When installing the pattern backwards it is easiest to maintain alignment by coming back with double rows, as shown in Drawing #6. “Fit” flooring into doorways where it is to butt against other flooring, or against a reducer strip. Leave 3/4” expansion space around masonry structures, such as a fireplace. (This void can be filled with a solid piece of cork and stained.)

CLIC INSTALLATION 1.Clic InstallationAfter cleaning the sub floor, roll over the vapour barrier sheet with a minimum 20cm (8inch) overlap. Unroll the sheet along the longest wall. 2. Underlayment may be used for sound insulation and / or for smoothing out slight irregularities of the sub floor. 3. Lay a loose board upside down as a proper height guide against the door jamb. Cut the bottom of the frame off, leaving the required expansion gap allowance. 4. Boards shall run lengthwise against the longest wall. When possible try to run floor boards parallel to incoming sunlight or main light source. T-mould is required for rooms exceeding 100m² (1.080sq ft). 5.Begin installation from the left hand corner, tongue-side against the wall. Use spacers to maintain an even expansion gap allowance. 6. Align the next board, lay it down and push downward until the short edge’s plastic tongue clicks into locking position. Proceed with the subsequent boards in similar manner to complete the installed first row. 7. The figure shows the short edge plastic tongues latch locking mechanism. 8. For aesthetical reasons, on starting the next row, always make sure to stagger the end joints by at least 30cm (12inch). Try to use cut piece from the previous row to start a new one. 9. Connect the long edges tongue with the groove at some 15 angle and lay it down.

41 10. Connect the long edges tongue with the groove at some 15 angle, push to slide the board along the joint towards the previous board. Align and lay it down, until the short edges plastic tongue clicks into the locking position. Proceed with the subsequent boards in a similar manner to complete the row. 11. All joints shall have a tight fit. When necessary use a tapping block and hammer to gently tap any gapped joints. Never hit the floor board directly with a hammer or mallet. 12. When necessary use a pull bar and hammer to tap gapped joints at adjoining walls and door jambs. 13. To lay the last row, place a full length floor board directly on top of the last installed row. Measure and cut the correct width by putting a full width scrap board with spacers inserted against the wall. 14. Trimming the boards width will unable the use of the plastic tongue at the boards short edge. Remove the plastic tongue; apply a continuous line of bead of adhesive along the lower lip. Immediately wipe off any excessive adhesive with damp cloth. Hold down the board with some weights while the adhesive cures. 15. In the case that the installed board needs to be removed, either because of poor colour blending or because of any other reason, start at the most right sided board of the row and insert the special separating tool into the groove. 16. Lift up the right side board and remove it. Carry on to the targeted board to be removed from the row. 17. On encountering pipes, measure the position and diameter of the pipe; drill hole(s) with a diameter of 10mm (3/8) bigger than measured. Cut off as shown in the figure and install the board in place. 18. Make sure to remove all spacers once the laying procedure is completed. Skirting boards or mouldings shall be fastened to the adjacent wall with nails or screws overlapping the expansion gap allowance.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION TOOLS REQUIRED (not supplied) Spacer wedges, Hammer, PVA wood glue, Tapping Block, Fitting straps, Square, Underlay, Tape measure, Saw, Pencil, Safety gear-mask, goggles, Utility knife, Knee pads, A suitable method for fixing on top of concrete or screed sub floors. Also suitable for installation over existing suitably firm, flat and secure wooden floors. Note: it is not recommended that boards with a width of over 150mm (6”) are fitting by gluing only. Screed floors must be at and level with no surface lumps and/or depressions in their surface. Uneven floors must be leveled to ensure even, uniform application of a liquid applied DPM. The floor can be leveled up to a maximum depth of 5mm (0.08”) with a good quality-leveling compound. This must be allowed to dry out completely before applying the suitable damp proofing liquid. With this system use an approved adhesive for gluing solid wood to the various sub floors. The glue is applied directly to the screed sub floor / existing wood floor to fix the boards. 1. Mark out a straight line parallel to the chosen wall, allowing a 15mm (5/8”) gap for expansion. It may be necessary to scribe the first row of boards to achieve correct alignment. 2. Once the first row of boards is correctly aligned and glued in place, weight them down while the glue sets. Any surplus glue that may seep out onto the surface or the wood must be removed immediately with a damp cloth. The glue should not be applied in the groove or the tongue of the flooring. 3. Continue to t the boards from left to the right. Always stagger the end joins by a minimum of 150mm (6”) and a maximum of 300mm (113/4”). Measure and trim the last board to fit, allowing for the 15mm (5/8”) expansion (5/8”) gap. Where possible, use cut-offs to start the next row. 4. Flooring straps can be used to pull boards together and hold them in place whilst the glue dries. 5. The expansion gap of 15mm (5/8”) must be maintained during installation 6. For the last row of boards, you can use the sandwich technique to measure the width of board required, ensuring that the row is not less than 10cm in width. 7. All pipes, pillars, frames etc must be cut around to provide suitable expansion gaps. It is not recommended that boards over 152mm (6”) are fitted by gluing down only. IMPORTANT: For America/Asia/Middle East/Africa/Russia, the gluing down installation is not recommended and will not be covered by the warranty of the producer

FAQ’S SOLIDWOOD 1) What is the difference between your pre-finished and unfinished flooring? Ans- The pre-finished Solid Wood Flooring is end matched with a tight micro-bevelled edge and has coats of UV oxide finish. The unfinished floor comes end matched with a square edge and must be finished on site. 2) How do I acclimate my Solid Wood Flooring? Ans- Let the flooring acclimated for 5 to 7 days, with boxes opened and laid flat in the room where the flooring is to be installed. If you are in an area with high humidity, you may need to install some humidity controls like a humidifier or dehumidifier. 3) How does moisture affect my Solid Wood Flooring? Ans- Excessive moisture can be lead to numerous changes to your floor, such as cupping, bucking or cracking Therefore, it is highly recommended that you do not use water to clean your floors A slightly damp cloth is not problematic. 4) What is the moisture content of Solid wood floor? Ans- Solid Wood flooring is kiln dried to a moisture content of 7 to 10 percent. Solid Wood floors will naturally expand and contract with fluctuations in temperature and humidity. However, Solid wood floors perform best when they are within a temperature/ humidity range of 7 to 10 percent. At this range, expansion and contraction can be reduced to its minimum. 5) What are some potential moisture problem I should look out for? Ans- Cupping and crowing are caused when water is trapped between the wood floor and the sub-floor. When this imbalance in moisture occurs, it is essential that the boards dry evenly: if not, cupping or crowing can appear. 43 location that are not recommended for Solid Wood Flooring Because it is a natural flooring products so, is not recommended to be installed in wet locations such as bathrooms, washroom, saunas, enclosed, porches or verandas, or any where that may require wet – mopping, Extended exposure to moisture of this type may cause your Solid Wood Flooring to wrap , swell or cracks. It is also not recommended to install in basement. Please note that certain species of Solid Wood Flooring are softer than other’s You should consider using these harder species for high traffic areas ENGINEERED WOOD 1)What is Engineered Flooring? Ans- Engineered Flooring is a product made up of the top layer of natural wood species, a middle layer of rubber wood and a bottom layer of soft wood veneer. The Product therefore has the natural characteristics of the selected wood species as opposed to a photographic layer like laminate The Engineered product has been designed to provide greater stability, particularly where moisture or heat pose problem for solid wood floors. 2)What does greater stability mean? Ans- The instability of solid wood is usually moisture or heat related. Under adverse condition, solid wood floor can warp, cup, swell or split apart. Engineered Flooring overcomes these problems by constructing a multipleply plank which counteracts twisting and remains flat and intact. This makes Engineered flooring a better choice for installation over radiant heat sources. Over concrete whether it’s below grade or above and in rainy climates. 3)How many layers does Engineered Flooring have? Ans- In addition to the top wood veneer, Engineered Flooring typically has or more core layer. Of course, there is stability with more layers. 6) How can I better protect my floor from early finish wear? Ans- It is a good idea to implement a regular cleaning routine, also use throw rugs and felt or plastic floor protectors on furniture. 4)Does engineering destroy the natural beauty of wood floors? Ans- Not at all, The top wood layer is the same genius wood that you have

Engineered floors are not laminates. Solid wood flors are made of real wood. They are made from 100% real wood and so they exude the natural beauty and warmth of which is expected of solid wood floors. Real wood Most solid wood floors are finished man-ually at site resulting non-precision result and this also makes the floors less du-

Related Documents:

3 Key Advantages of Wood-based Fuels 1.1 Wood energy is widely used and renewable 1.2 Sustainable wood production safeguards forest functions 1.3 Wood energy is available locally 1.4 Wood energy provides employment and income 1.5 Wood energy supports domestic economies 1.6 Wood energy is modern and leads to innovation 1.7 Wood energy can make a country independent of energy imports

wood (see Section "Role of wood moisture content on corrosion"). 3. Wood preservatives Wood preservatives are chemicals that are injected into the wood to help the wood resist attack by decay fungi, mold, and/or termites. Waterborne wood preservatives are commonly used when the wood may be in contact with humans or will be painted.

the floor space. The future is a CO 2 neutral world. Real wood Feel real wood. Each Parky floor is finished with a top layer of authentic wood species, in oak or walnut. Just like a solid wood floor, no two boards are the same. A beautiful natural look, combined with the warmth of wood. Waterproof surface The Parky board has a waterproof .

wood trusses. The versatility of wood trusses makes it an excellent roof framing system in hybrid construction where wood trusses are commonly used with steel, concrete or masonry wall systems. Environmental: Wood, the only renewable building material, has numerous environ-mental advantages. Wood trusses enhance wood's environmental

color influence - Natural, Mineral and Earth. Each color category is then divided into more precise tones, making sure we cover every important design color. True Natural True natural wood tones, without stain. Raw Natural The appearance of freshly cut wood. Natural Effect Natural wood, lightly stained to enhance the true beauty of nature.

color influence - Natural, Mineral and Earth. Each color category is then divided into more precise tones, making sure we cover every important design color. True Natural True natural wood tones, without stain. Raw Natural The appearance of freshly cut wood. Natural Effect Natural wood, lightly stained to enhance the true beauty of nature.

for Admonter Natural Floors Room concepts made of natural wood for floors, walls & ceilings. 2 3 When you opt for an Admonter natural wood floor, you are choosing excellent quality and a genuine natural product that is intended for use as flooring in interiors. Installation requires just a little skill and standard woodworking tools.

Artificial Intelligence: A Modern Approach Stuart Russell and Peter Norvig. 3rd Edition, 2010. 2 copies of are on 24hr reserve in the Engineering and Computer Science Library. Recommended but not required. Lecture notes cover much of the course material and will be available online before class.