Comparing Warm-season And Cool-season Grasses
COMPARING WARM-SEASON AND COOL-SEASON GRASSESFOR EROSION CONTROL, WATER QUALITY, AND WILDLIFE HABITATConservation Practice Fact SheetNatural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS)January 2004INTRODUCTIONThe terms "warm-season grasses" and "cool-seasongrasses" are broad categories that include a diversecollection of individual grass species. Each specieshas its own specific growth habits, environmental tolerances, and management requirements. The abilityof a particular species, or group of species, to providedesired benefits can vary tremendously, based on siteconditions and seasonal variations in temperature andprecipitation. While it is possible to provide somegeneral guidelines about warm-season and coolseason grass plantings, please be aware that exceptions can almost always be found when comparingone planting to another.Warm-season grasses are plants that grow mostlyfrom June through early September. They are welladapted to hot, dry weather, and will stay green inJuly and August, unlike the cool-season grasses thatgrow best in the spring and fall when soil and air temperatures are cooler.This fact sheet explains some of the advantages anddisadvantages associated with warm-season and coolseason grasses that are recommended for erosion control, water quality protection, and wildlife habitat improvement in Maryland.PROVIDING EROSION CONTROL ANDWATER QUALITY PROTECTIONCool-season grasses have a short-term advantage overwarm-season grasses for protecting the soil from erosion and for filtering sediment and other particulatesout of surface water. Cool-season species usuallyproduce dense stands in only a year or two, as compared to three or more years for warm-season grasses.As a result, cool-season grasses usually provide erosion control and sediment trapping benefits muchsooner after planting than warm-season grasses. Aftera few years, however, warm-season grasses will alsoprovide these benefits as the stands mature and become denser.Once established, warm-season grasses usually havethe advantage for nutrient uptake. Many species ofwarm-season grasses (especially tall species such asswitchgrass, coastal panicgrass, big bluestem, indiangrass, and eastern gamagrass) produce abundant topgrowth in addition to having root systems that areNRCS, MarylandThe bunchy growth habit and stiff stems of little bluestem, a nativewarm season grass, provide good wildlife habitat.much more extensive than those of cool-seasongrasses. The above and below-ground biomass produced during the summer months by warm-seasongrasses can immobilize large quantities of excess soilnutrients.Cool-season grasses usually produce less biomassoverall, but do have the advantage of growing earlierin the spring and later in the fall, thus providing nutrient uptake benefits when warm-season grasses aredormant.IMPROVING WILDLIFE HABITATMany species of wildlife prefer native warm-seasongrasses for several reasons. Most native warm-seasonplantings are generally taller and clumpier, and maintain their species diversity longer than their coolseason grass counterparts.Habitat StructureThe bunchy growth form of many native warm-seasongrasses provides the habitat structure important fornest-building by ground-nesting birds such as quailand pheasant. The openings between plant clumpsprovide an opportunity for these birds and other wildlife to move around and forage for food, while beingprotected by overhead cover. Although some coolseason grasses are also "bunch" grasses, they tend tospread out and fill in openings faster than most warmseason species.
2 - Comparing Warm-Season and Cool-Season Grasses -- Fact SheetThe stiff stems of native warm-season grasses aremore likely to remain standing through the winter andinto early spring, thus providing winter residents withprotection from the weather and predators. The limpstems of most cool-season grasses tend to mat downmuch more quickly, resulting in poorer cover for wildlife as the stand matures.some areas, and cool-seasons in others. Cool-seasongrasses do have one habitat advantage -- they can provide a better source of food (green foliage and insects)for wildlife in early spring because the plants "greenup" much earlier in the growing season.BiodiversityIn warm-season grass plantings, the openings betweenplants allow room for broadleaf forbs and legumes,which help support a diverse insect community andprovide food (e.g., foliage, seeds, nectar, insects) forbirds and other wildlife. Unlike most native warmseason species, most cool-season species can rapidlyout-compete the broadleaf plants, thus reducing thediversity and habitat value of the planting. It is alsonot unusual for one species of cool-season grass toeventually dominate a mixed planting, resulting in amonoculture.Recent studies have identified several other concernsassociated with introduced (i.e., not native) coolseason grasses, especially if they are planted in stripsadjacent to agricultural fields: When the diversity of a cool-season planting de-clines, so does insect diversity. This usually meansthat there are fewer beneficial insects (pollinatorsand predators), higher population levels of plantpests (such as aphids, mites, grasshoppers, andgrubs), and an increased risk of pest outbreaks intonearby agricultural fields. Pests are more likely to disperse into adjacentfields when cool-season grasses are stressed duringhot, dry weather. Mowing during this period canalso encourage insects to disperse into adjacentareas.Reduced plant and insect diversity may be related toendophyte infection of many cool-season grass species. Orchardgrass, timothy, and various fescues, ryegrasses, and bluegrasses have been reported to containendophytes. Endophyte-infected grasses are usuallymore drought-tolerant, disease-resistant, and are lesslikely to be eaten by wildlife and insects. These characteristics greatly enhance the ability of cool-seasongrasses to compete in a planting. This is beneficial forthe grasses, but is less desirable for wildlife habitat.Although the growth habits and other characteristicsof native warm-season grasses tend to favor their usefor improving wildlife habitat, this doesn't mean thatyou should never plant cool-season grasses. A varietyof habitat types is important if you want to benefit awide range of wildlife species. For example, considerestablishing and managing warm-season plantings inNRCS, MarylandA cool-season mix of orchardgrass, red fescue, red clover, and whiteclover can provide wildlife with a source of food in early spring whilewarm-season grasses are dormant.Regardless of whether you choose warm-season orcool-season grasses, make sure that each mix consistsof a diverse combination of grasses including legumesand/or forbs, and plan to implement a maintenanceregime that encourages plant diversity.USING NATIVE PLANTSThere has been an increasing emphasis lately on usingnative plant species. Why is this important?We generally define plants as "native" if they occurredin Maryland before the period of European settlement.Early settlers from many continents brought plantswith them from their home countries. Today, some ofthese imported plants are valuable agricultural crops.Unfortunately, many other exotic plants have becomeproblem weed species in this country.Native species can provide a practical and ecologically valuable choice for conservation plantings. Theuse of native plants is increasing as more people discover their many benefits: Native plants are often better adapted to local soil,rainfall, and temperature conditions than nonnative (introduced) plants. Once established, native plants seldom need watering, fertilizer, or pesticides. Native plants can match the finest cultivated plantsin beauty, while often surpassing introduced plantsin resistance to drought, insects, and disease.January 2004
Comparing Warm-Season and Cool-Season Grasses -- Fact Sheet - 3 Diverse, native plant communities provide excel-lent wildlife habitat. The seeds, fruits, and foliageof native plants are eaten by birds and mammals.The nectar of many flowering species is used byinsects and hummingbirds.Big bluestem, little bluestem, indiangrass, switchgrass, deertongue, coastal panicgrass, eastern gamagrass, broomsedge, side-oats grama, and purpletop arejust a few of the warm-season grasses that are nativeto Maryland.little or no need for lime or fertilizer, the money savedon these materials should help offset the higher cost ofpurchasing warm-season grass seeds.Most warm-season grasses have fluffy seeds that require the use of a specialized seed drill. This drill isoutfitted with picker wheels in the seed box that stirthe seed and push it down into the large diameter droptubes. You can usually rent one of these drills locallyor hire a contractor who has one.Most cool-season grasses (and a few warm-seasongrasses) have small, relatively "clean" seeds that canbe planted by using a conventional grass drill or cultipacker-type seeder. A grain drill may also be used ifit can be properly calibrated to plant small seeds at therecommended rate. Eastern gamagrass has a large,clean seed that can be drilled with a corn planter.Seedling Growth and Weed CompetitionWeeds provide good food and cover for wildlife, butcan hinder the growth of seedling grasses by shadingthem and by competing for moisture and nutrients.An additional concern is that neighbors tend to complain when unmanaged weedy plantings are nearby.Deertongue, a native warm-season grass, is adapted to a wide range ofsite conditions -- from droughty to wet.Cool-season grasses germinate well and produce vigorous seedlings that can compete strongly againstweeds. The seeds of warm-season grasses, on theother hand, may germinate over a period of severalCommonly used cool-season grasses such as orchardgrass, timothy, Kentucky bluegrass, and mostfescues are introduced species. There are a few coolseason natives that are commercially available, however. These include red fescue, fowl meadowgrass,Canada wild rye, and Virginia wild rye.Whether you choose warm-season or cool-seasongrasses, please keep in mind the added benefits ofplanting native species.ESTABLISHING GRASSESWithout a doubt, most cool-season grasses are easierto establish than warm-season grasses. Nevertheless,if you are willing to be patient, warm-season grassesare well worth your time and effort.Materials and Equipment NeededSeeds of introduced cool-season grasses are usuallymore readily available and less expensive to purchasethan native warm-season grasses. Depending on thespecies, some warm-season grasses may not be instock at your local seed supplier and must be ordered.Warm-season grasses are much more tolerant of poorsoil conditions (i.e., low pH and/or low in nutrients)than most cool-season grasses, and therefore usuallydo not require addition of lime and fertilizer. WithNRCS, MarylandCool-season planting of orchardgrass, red fescue, red clover, and whiteclover. Late spring, second growing season. This filter strip wasplanted during the previous fall and is now well-established.growing seasons. Warm-season grass seedlings usually spend one to two years producing roots but littletop growth. As a result, these seedlings are less competitive against weeds during the establishment years.Because they establish slowly, warm-season grassescan be easily overwhelmed by weeds, especially onthe better soils. Effective weed control, consisting ofperiodic mowing or the use of selective herbicides, isessential to establishing warm-season grasses in aJanuary 2004
4 - Comparing Warm-Season and Cool-Season Grasses -- Fact Sheetreasonable amount of time. A nursecrop of small grain (especially oats)can also help to suppress weeds duringthe first growing season. If you areattentive to weed control, you can lookforward to seeing a beautiful stand ofwarm-season grasses in about threeyears. Without good management,warm-season grass stands can still develop, but the time needed may be upto five years.Drought ToleranceOn dry, sandy sites, or during periodsof prolonged drought, seedlings andestablished stands of warm-seasongrasses have the advantage of beingvery drought-tolerant. Warm-seasongrasses are well-adapted to growing onsites with low moisture-holding capacity (e.g., on sand hills or rocky slopes),although stand establishment may berelatively slow under harsh conditions.In comparison, most cool-seasongrasses are more likely to experiencehigher seedling mortality and thinningof established stands on dry sites andduring drought periods, unless supplemental water is applied.Native warm-season grass planting of indiangrass, big bluestem, little bluestem, and wildflowers.Late summer, second growing season. Moderate amounts of ragweed are present, but thegrasses are now tall enough to compete effectively. This planting was mowed earlier in the growing season to control weeds.MAINTAINING GRASSESAfter they are established, grass plantings need occasional maintenance torejuvenate them and to keep trees andshrubs from invading. Warm-seasonand cool-season grasses have somewhat different management needs.Most warm-season grasses are longlived and, once established, usually donot need replanting. Periodic management may consist of prescribedburning and/or light strip disking on a3 to 4-year rotation. These techniquesare used primarily to maintain highquality wildlife habitat by reducing Another planting of native warm-season grasses (indiangrass, big bluestem, little bluestem) andMid-summer, third growing season. A selective herbicide was applied during thestand density and rejuvenating the wildflowers.first two years to reduce weed competition.wildflower component of the planting.Prescribed burning can also be used to kill trees andbe overseeded into the grasses every 3 to 4 years. Asshrubs that may have spread into the grass planting.stands mature, the cool-season grasses may tend tothin out and need to be reseeded.Most cool-season stands are maintained by mowingon a 2 to 3-year rotation to control woody growth.(Mowing is generally not used for warm-seasongrasses unless burning is not feasible.) If the coolseason grass mix includes legumes, they may need toNRCS, MarylandFor both warm-season and cool-season stands, carefully managed haying or grazing and selective use ofherbicides may also be appropriate management techniques.January 2004
Comparing Warm-Season and Cool-Season Grasses -- Fact Sheet - 5Brief Summary of the Benefits and Drawbacks of Warm-Season vs. Cool-Season GrassesTopicWarm-Season GrassesCool-Season GrassesErosion ControlandWater QualityProvide long-term benefits for erosion control andsediment trapping.Provide short-term and long-term benefits for erosion control and sediment trapping.Produce more overall biomass for nutrient uptakethan cool-season grasses. Provide nutrient uptakeduring the summer when cool-seasons are dormant.Provide nutrient uptake earlier in the spring andlater in the fall than warm-season grasses.WildlifeHabitatProvide excellent nesting and feeding habitat.Bunch grasses provide openings for feeding, whilemaintaining overhead protection from predators.Due to earlier "green-up," provide a better sourceof food (green foliage and insects) in early springthan warm-season grasses.Stiff-stemmed grasses are more likely to remainstanding for good winter protection.Tend to mat down more quickly than most warmseason grasses as they age. This degrades the quality for nesting, feeding, and overhead protection.Plantings are more likely to remain diverse, supporting a balanced mix of plant species and insectpopulations.EstablishmentUsually need a specialized seed drill to plant thesegrasses.Seed may be more expensive and less readily available than cool-season grasses.MaintenanceOther IssuesMay harbor more agricultural insect pests in thesummer, especially if plant diversity has declined.Plant with a conventional grass drill or cultipackerseeder. Can sometimes be planted with a graindrill.Relatively inexpensive, readily available seeds.Usually don't need much lime or any fertilizer.Tolerate poor soil conditions (i.e., nutrient-poorand/or low pH) better than cool-season grasses.Have higher nutrient requirements than warmseason grasses. Less tolerant of poor soil conditions.Seeds are slow to germinate. Seedlings usuallyneed 2 to 3 years to establish.Seeds germinate fairly quickly. Seedlings are usually well-established 1 to 2 years after planting.Weed competition is often a problem during establishment, especially on the better soils.Rapid seedling growth results in less weed competition during establishment.Seedlings and established stands are very droughttolerant. Good for sites with low moisture-holdingcapacity (e.g., sand hills, rocky slopes).Higher seedling mortality and thinning of established stands on dry sites or during drought periods,unless supplemental water is applied.Maintained by using prescribed burning or lightstrip disking on a 3 to 4-year rotation.Maintained by mowing on a 2 to 3-year rotation,and by overseeding with legumes every 3 to 4 yrs.Grasses are long-lived and usually do not need reseeding.As stands mature, grasses may thin out and need tobe reseeded.Can be hayed or grazed with careful management.Can be hayed or grazed with careful management.Selective herbicides may be used for weed control.Selective herbicides may be used for weed control.Most species grow very tall (5 to 8 feet), and depending on where they are planted, can "block theview." This may be a benefit or a drawback, depending on what is nearby.Tend to be low-growing (3 feet tall or less).Land owners and managers please note: If you will be receiving cost-sharing for your project, be sure to checkwith your funding agency/organization for details concerning specific establishment and maintenance requirements. Some requirements may be more restrictive than those described in this fact sheet.For more information about selecting, establishing, and maintaining warm-season and cool-season grasses,contact your local NRCS Field Service Center.Contents of this fact sheet may be reproduced for non-commercial purposes, provided that USDA-NRCS, Maryland, is credited. Text and photos byAnne Lynn, State Biologist, NRCS, Maryland.The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, religion, age, disability,political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternative means forcommunication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA's TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice and TDD). To file a complaintof discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call(202) 720-5964 (voice or TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity provider and employer.NRCS, MarylandJanuary 2004
season grass plantings, please be aware that excep-tions can almost always be found when comparing one planting to another. Warm-season grasses are plants that grow mostly from June through early September. They are well adapted to hot, dry weather, and will stay green in July and August, unlike the cool-season grasses that
Warm air rises over cool air to form a warm front . Cool air undercuts warm air from behind to form a cold front . Warm air rises along both fronts, cools, condenses and forms rain. An occluded front is formed when warm air is completely undercut by the cool air.
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Study Abroad and Exchange Guide Student Instagram photo @jappiegroen. Page 2 Page 3. Season Months Temperature oC F Summer December-February Warm and humid 18-26 64-79 Autumn March-May Warm to cool 15-22 59-72 Winter June-August Cool to cold 8-17 48-63 Spring September-November Cool to warm 13-22 55-72
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Provides broad spectrum weed control; use rates differ between warm- and cool-season turf; can cause injury to warm-season turfgrass transitioning in and out of dormancy. 2,4-D triclopyr clopyralid Momentum 3-4 pt Not for use by homeowners. Apply to well-established turf; don’t apply to warm-season turf maintained at less than 1/2 in mowing
Warm-Season Grasses in the Mid-South, SP 731-D, for more information). In a grazing setting, stocking rates can be approximately 1,400 - 2,000 lb per acre, depending on species, under full-season summer grazing (see Grazing Native Warm-Season Grasses in the Mid-South, SP 731-C, for more information). High-Quality Forage
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