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LANDSCAPING:RECOMMENDED SHRUBS FOR W YOMINGKaren Panter & Chris Hilgert,Department of Plant SciencesB-1108RDecember 2015Return to UW Extension publications site.

LANDSCAPING: RECOMMENDED SHRUBS FOR WYOMINGKaren Panter, Ph.D., C.P.H., Extension Horticulture SpecialistUniversity of Wyoming, Department of Plant SciencesChris Hilgert, Extension Master Gardener State Coordinator and Horticulture SpecialistUniversity of Wyoming, Department of Plant SciencesRevised from original bulletin B-1108 by Karen L. Panter and Emily E. EwartEditor: Steven L. Miller, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Office of Communications and Technology.Graphic Designer: Tanya Engel, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources, Office of Communications and Technology.On the coverForsythia x intermediaForsythiaIssued in furtherance of extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Glen Whipple, director, University ofWyoming Extension, University of Wyoming, Laramie, Wyoming 82071.Persons seeking admission, employment, or access to programs of the University of Wyoming shall be considered without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin,disability, age, political belief, veteran status, sexual orientation, and marital or familial status. Persons with disabilities who require alternative means for communicationor program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact their local UW Extension office. To file a complaint, write to the UW Employment Practices/Affirmative Action Office, University of Wyoming, Department 3434, 1000 E. University Avenue, Laramie, WY 82071.

LANDSCAPING:RECOMMENDED SHRUBS FOR W YOMINGGrowing woody plants in Wyoming canbe a challenge, especially in areas of highelevation or low precipitation. In some locales,both factors must be taken into consideration. Planning and thought must go into thepurchase and planting of any type of plant,especially woody types.Aronia melanocarpa(Black chokeberry)What is the difference between a tree and ashrub? Trees are woody plants, generally 8feet or taller, that live for many years. Theyare characterized by having a single stem ortrunk. Shrubs are also woody plants that livelong lives, but they are generally smaller andhave several stems originating from the base ofthe plant. They can range in height from lessthan 1 foot to 15 feet. Sometimes they are alsocalled bushes.Design of the landscape.Shrubs can perform many functions. Thesemight include shade or screening fromneighbors or streets. The landscape may beintended as a showcase for native plants. Inany landscape, start with shrubs, as they arethe dominant element. Then fill in with shrubsand other plants.Common sense and horticultural principlesshould be followed when deciding which shrubsto plant. Some of those principles are discussedbelow. The climate cannot be changed, butthe gardener can create micro-climates thatenhance shrubs’ potential for long-termsurvival.Exposure to prevailing winds.In many places, winds blow from the west,southwest, or northwest most of the time. Ashrub planted in an open area on the westor northwest side of a lot or structure willbe exposed to harsh, drying, and potentiallydamaging winds.SITE SELECTIONProximity to structures.Plant shrubs far enough away from a structureor building that branches will not scrape thesides. The shrub will need sufficient space togrow. Plant the shrub at a distance from thestructure equal to at least half the shrub’smature diameter.Proper placement of shrubs in the landscapeis one of the most important factors affectingshrub survival in Wyoming. There are manyplacement considerations.Landscaping: Recommended Shrubs for Wyoming 1

Pr ox imi t y to un de r gr oun d u t ili t ylines.Shrubs rarely cause problems under overheadpower lines; however, it is wise to contact localauthorities to determine if and exactly whereburied utility lines may be located. There isusually no charge for this service.Proximity to sidewalks, curbs, anddriveways.Shrub roots can crack and damage concreteas the roots grow and develop. They can blocksidewalks and driveways, making it difficultfor pedestrians to pass. They can also impededrivers’ vision at intersections. Often, localzoning regulations or shrub ordinances willspecify which species of shrubs or shrubs areallowed in certain places. Always consider thesize the plant will be when full-grown. Plantshrubs at least as far away from sidewalks,curbs, and driveways as half the shrub’s maturediameter.Proximity to other shrubs and trees.If a new, young shrub is planted too close toa mature shrub or tree, the new one may beshaded. Its growth may be abnormal or stuntedbecause of a lack of sunlight.Exposure to sun.Make sure the shrub has enough sunlight hoursto match its needs in its new home. Most shrubshave specific light requirements. Make sure toplace the plant in the best light for the species.Also keep in mind the size of the shrub whenit reaches maturity. Will it still receive enoughlight ten years from now?Proximity to water.Newly planted shrubs must be pampered tosurvive in Wyoming. A water source mustbe near during the growing season and especially during winter. Wyoming frequentlyhas periods of warm, dry weather during thewinter months. Additional water at these timesis crucial to the plant’s survival.2Soil pH.Often, one of the more limiting factors ingrowing woody plants successfully in Wyomingis the high soil pH. Most shrubs will thrive insoils with a pH of 6 to 7. Many of our nativesoils, however, have higher pH levels. Selectshrubs that will tolerate higher pH soils ormore alkaline conditions. (For further information, check UWE bulletin B-1097, “IronDeficiency Chlorosis on Woody LandscapePlants in Wyoming.”)Proximity to neighbors.When selecting a site, consider your humanneighbors. Determine if the shrubs will blockthe neighbors’ view, if they could be a possiblehazard (thorns), or if they could be a nuisance(pollen, fruit, flowers, leaves) Check to see ifthe plants will affect neighbors’ sidewalks,driveways, or curbs.PURCHASING HEALTHY SHRUBSShrubs can be purchased in many sizes andtypes of containers, or in no container at all.Each container has advantages and drawbacks.Bare-root shrubs.These are usually “whips,” very small shrubsthat may or may not have any developedbranches. Whips should be purchased veryearly in the season before they come out ofwinter dormancy. The roots on bare-root stockshould never dry out, so if they must be stored,keep them in a cool, moist spot with the rootswrapped in moist peat moss or other absorbentmaterial. As soon as possible, pot whips innew or clean containers to allow the roots todevelop. Later on during the growing season,the young shrubs can be planted in their newhomes. Bare-root shrubs also can be planteddirectly in the ground. The cost of bare-rootmaterials is low, but they will take many yearsto reach maturity.Containerized shrubs.Shrubs can be purchased in any number ofcontainer sizes, from #1 (roughly 1 gallon) to

#15 (about 15 gallons) and sometimes evenlarger. These shrubs will have well-developedroot systems and will be more mature andolder than bare-root shrubs. They also will costmore. One way to check the health of the plantis to gently remove the shrub from its container.Look at the root tips – if they are clean andwhite, chances are the shrub is a healthy one.Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) shrubs.Usually, the largest and most expensive shrubsavailable for purchase have their root systemscontained in a relatively small “bag” thatmust be carefully handled. B&B shrubs musthave their root systems intact, and the rootball should be in one piece, a characteristiccalled “ball integrity.” If the root ball has beenpierced, the soil has fallen away from it, or theball integrity has not been maintained, theshrub’s survival will be compromised. B&Bshrubs may require specialized equipment tomove and plant them.Any shrub purchased should have the followingcharacteristics: Freedom from insects, diseases, and theirassociated damage. Clean, clear color of the foliage typical forthat particular shrub. Some shrubs havepurple or red tinges to their foliage; othershave a yellowish cast to them. Understandwhich varieties of shrubs have thesedifferent characteristics. Signs of new, healthy growth such as budsor mature green leaves.SITE PREPARATIONSite preparation is probably the most importantpart of shrub planting, but it is also the mostdifficult and often-overlooked step. Considerthe landscape as a whole, select the proper sitefor the new plant, and then prepare the site.Preferably, the hole for the new shrub shouldbe dug before the plant is purchased or soonthereafter, especially if the plant is B&B. Digthe hole to the depth of the root ball or soildepth in the container. The shrub should beplanted only as deeply as the original soil line,which will be a darkened area at the base of thestems. They should not be planted too deeply.The hole should be at least three times thewidth of the root ball. For bare-root shrubs, digthe hole at least twice as wide as the spread-outroot system. Do not amend the soil removedfrom the hole.PLANTING THE SHRUBIf the plant is bare-root, soak the roots in waterfor several hours before planting. When thesite has been prepared, check the root system.Carefully prune out any small circling rootsor any damaged or broken roots. Next, spreadthe roots out horizontally in the prepared hole. A minimum of broken or damagedbranches. No visible wounds or scars on the trunk. Healthy root systems that are well-established in the container or root ball. Healthyroots are white and should be visible on theoutside edges of the root ball.Jamesia americana(Waxflower)Landscaping: Recommended Shrubs for Wyoming 3

Make sure the roots are undamaged and theshrub is placed straight and at proper depth.If the plant is in a container, carefully removethe shrub from the container either by gentlypulling or by cutting the container away fromthe root ball. Always handle shrubs by the rootball, not the branches. Taking care not to breakor disturb the root system, gently place theplant in the hole. Make sure the crown of theplant (where the branches and soil meet) is at orabove the surrounding soil level. If the soil levelneeds to be raised, gently lift up the plant bythe root ball, place additional soil underneathit, and then replace the plant.If the shrub is B&B, place the plant gently inthe hole. Make sure it is not too deep. Carefullycut away the burlap and twine from the rootball. B&B shrubs may have wire basketsaround the root balls instead of burlap andtwine. Cut away as much of the wire basket aspossible – preferably all of it.Once the plant is set at the right level, theprocess of filling up the rest of the hole canMahonia aquifolium(Oregon grape holly)4begin. Make sure the shrub is straight beforecompletely filling in the hole. Gently firm thesoil periodically to fill in spaces under andaround the root ball. Good contact between thesoil and the root ball is essential. Roots cannotgrow in pockets of air.When the hole is filled all around the root ball,build a low “wall” around the perimeter of thehole, creating a bowl to hold water. The nextcritical step is watering the plant to settle thesoil around the root ball and to provide waterfor the root system. It may be helpful to havewater running while filling the hole aroundthe plant.A slow trickle of water over several hours isa good way to water the plant. Make sure,however, the hose is moved periodically soall areas around the root ball are watered. Asprinkler is also effective in watering. Use agentle sprinkle to water the shrub graduallyover a few hours. Slow water applications willsettle the soil around the root ball withoutcompacting it.