Prevention And Cultural Methods For Pest Management - Gov
Home & GardenPest Management GuideFor British Columbia2019 EditionChapter 5Prevention and Cultural Methodsfor Pest Management
Prevention & Cultural Methods for PestManagementBy using preventative and cultural pestmanagement practices, the gardener orlandscaper can achieve more consistent,long-term pest management. A number ofpreventative measures can be taken to reducethe likelihood of certain pests becoming aproblem. By preventing pest problems, theneed for pesticides may be reduced oreliminated.Most pests in home gardens and landscapescan be managed successfully using goodplanning and cultural practices. Culturalmethods work by modifying growingconditions to interfere with the pest and itslife cycle. Cultural methods of pestmanagement include use of resistantvarieties, tillage, mulching, hand weedingand hoeing, pruning, trapping and handpicking of insects and weeds, and the use ofphysical barriers such as row covers andsticky bands. Wildlife and bird problems arebest prevented with fencing, netting andscaring devices.For information on prevention and culturalcontrol of specific pests, refer to the chapteron the crop or plants affected, or the chapterson household pests, birds and mammals.Consider the site’s past history (i.e. has apest or disease occurred in this locationbefore?) and proximity to a pest’s overwintering sites (soil, fields, borders). Soil type (clay, sand, organic matter,etc.), drainage and fertility: Some plantspecies are more suited to wet locations,while others prefer dry locations. Sandysoils will dry out fast, and may not besuitable for plants that demandcontinuous moisture. If the soil is poorlydrained, plants can be vulnerable to rootrot. It may be possible to improve thesoil by adding compost or organic matterto wet areas, or adding sand to veryheavy clay soils to improve drainage. Soil pH: Most trees and shrubs prefersoils that are neutral to slightly acid (pH6-7). Some exceptions to this are azaleasand rhododendrons which prefer a moreacid soil (pH 5-6.5). A few species, suchas butterfly bush, lilac and viburnums,prefer neutral to slightly alkaline soils. Sun and shade: When a plant that issuited to sun is planted in the shade, thegrowth tends to be more soft andsucculent. This can promote greaterproblems with disease or insects. Plantspecies that are adapted to shade will notdo well in full sun, and may sufferburned foliage and even plant death. Rainfall and available moisture:Provide adequate irrigation for plants indry areas. Don’t overwater, as keepingsoil too wet can promote root diseases.Avoid planting in low, wet areas andareas that are prone to flooding ordrought.Site Planning and DesignBy planning a garden in advance, many pestproblems can be prevented. Sometimes apest problem can be avoided by selecting aplanting site that is favourable for the cropand natural enemies of a pest, but notfavourable for the pest itself. Choose plantsor crops that are appropriate for your gardenor landscape environment. This is one of themost important factors in growing healthy,vigorous plants and avoiding pest problems.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-1
Size of the plant and root zone whenmature: Be aware of a plant’s maturesize and plant it in an appropriate spot toavoid problems such as damage frombranches hitting a roof, gutters, utilitylines and boxes, roots impactingfoundations, leaves clogging gutters, andplant litter on entryways and paths.Plant hardiness zonePlants vary in hardiness. The term hardinessusually refers to a plant’s ability to survivecold winter temperatures likely to occur in agiven area. Be aware of your plant hardinesszone, and select tree, shrub and perennialspecies that are suited to your area. For moreinformation, see the plant hardiness zonemap found on Natural Resources Canadasite: http://www.planthardiness.gc.ca/Plant diversityChoose a variety of plant families, speciesand cultivars to avoid monocultures (thecultivation of a single crop) to help decreasethe likelihood of pest outbreaks.Resistant cultivarsThe use of resistant or tolerant cultivars,where such cultivars are available, is an easyand inexpensive practice for controllingplant diseases in crops. The term resistanceor tolerance does not mean that the plant iscompletely immune to disease. A tolerantplant may still become infected, but it is ableto overcome the effect of the pathogen tosome degree. No variety is resistant to alldiseases. For example, the initials VF by atomato variety indicates resistance to thefungal diseases Verticillium and Fusariumwilt, but does not mean that the variety isalso resistant to other diseases such as earlyor late blight.There are many reasons why plants display anatural resistance. Some plants may producea natural insecticide such as rotenone orpyrethrum. Other plants may produce anatural poison or alkaloid compound thatdiscourages an animal attack or tastes bad.Some plants have naturally occurring genesfor resistance to certain diseases or forresistance to frost damage.Some plants are noted for their resistance toinsects, animal damage and harshenvironmental conditions. Deer, rabbits andsquirrels are attracted to some plants morethan others. Some plants are highly resistantto drought, excessive heat or frost. Thepresence of prickles, a hairy surface or asticky secretion can deter insects andanimals from attacking a plant.As a gardener you should search out andselect plants that show a natural resistanceand use them more widely in your planting.This will reduce your need for pesticides andensure greater success in your garden.Gardening catalogs often containinformation about disease resistance tospecific diseases. If you have had aparticular plant disease problem in the past,check to see if plants that are resistant to thisdisease are available.Timing of Planting and HarvestingThe timing of planting and harvesting can behelpful in controlling certain pests. Keep arecord of dates when insect problemsoccurred. It may be possible to time futureplantings to avoid the peak infestationperiods. For example, plant cabbage in latespring to avoid maggot infestation. Plantwarm weather crops after the soil haswarmed to speed up germination anddecrease problems with seed rot, seedlingblight and root rots.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-2
Cover Crops and Trap CropsTrap plants are effective for some insects,such as flea beetles on cole crops (cabbagefamily). Plant a species or variety of plantthat the insect prefers to feed on near orwithin the crop to be protected. The insectswill mainly feed on the trap plants, and thiswill minimize the damage to the gardener’smain crop. Remove and destroy trap crops ifthey become severely infested so the insectsdo not move over onto the desired crop.Alternatively, treat the trap plants with arecommended insecticide.Crop rotationRotation of vegetable crops and otherannuals helps to control many insects anddiseases, such as clubroot on crucifers. Ifyour garden is large enough, do not growplants from the same plant family (e.g. colecrops, cucurbits, solanaceous) in the samespot year after year. Some suggested rotationcrops and crops to be avoided following apest problem are mentioned under specificpests of each crop (see “Pests ofVegetables,” Chapter 15).Attracting BeneficialsSome pests can be controlled by encouragingor introducing predators, parasites ordiseases of the pests. Some biologicalcontrols are commercially available. Avoidgardening practices that may harm beneficialinsects or pollinators. For more informationon beneficials see Chapter 6, “BeneficialOrganisms and Biological Control Agents”.Certified Pest-Free Plants andSeedsMany plant diseases can be brought into thehome garden and greenhouse on infestedseeds, cuttings, bulbs, transplants, pottedplants or potting soil. It is very important toonly plant healthy disease-free plants andseeds from reliable sources. Some types ofplants or seed, such as seed potatoes, may be“certified” as free of certain diseases. If youare going to propagate your own seeds orcuttings, use insect and disease-free plants.Application of FertilizersPlant nutrition can influence pest damage.Fertilizer elements (nitrogen, phosphorous,and potassium) can have direct or indirecteffects on pest incidence. High levels ofnitrogen can increase disease susceptibilityand the incidence of pests such as mites andaphids. Proper, balanced fertilizationencourages healthy plants that will havebetter tolerance to, and opportunity toovercome pest damage.Irrigation PracticesIn most parts of the province, shallow-rootedperennials and annuals need some wateringor irrigation in the summer to remain healthyand vigorous. In sandy soils and dry Interiorvalleys, most plants require regular watering,in the form of sprinkler or drip irrigation,during the summer dry period. At the Coast,especially in heavier soils, most plants candraw their water needs from the soil yearround.If sprinkler irrigation is needed at the Coastduring long dry periods, it should not beused more than once or twice a week. Set outcans or jars to measure the water and leavethe sprinklers on until at least 1 – 2 cm hasaccumulated. This will provide enough waterto soak down into the rooting zone where theplants can draw on it for several days.Frequent, light waterings are notrecommended since they encourage shallowroots on garden plants and promote thegrowth of weeds. Sprinkler systems withtimers should be set to come on for at least 6Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-3
hours every 4-7 days if that matches thelocal sprinkling restrictions. Never set thesystem to sprinkle for only a few hours everynight. In all areas, watering or irrigation isneeded when transplanting any plant duringdry weather. This will protect the plantsfrom drying out until their roots havebecome established and can draw water outof the soil.Home Lawn & Garden Watering GuideOver-watering can lead to a lack of oxygenin the soil and secondary rots. Root andcrown rots can cause the death of shrubs andeven large trees. Newly transplanted trees,junipers and cedar hedges often die in thefirst summer as a result of drought stress,since new root systems have not developed.Drought stress on these plants can increasesusceptibility to root rot later.It is estimated that many gardeners use abouttwice as much water in their landscapes thanis required. As much as 80 percent of thewater used around the home during summeris for outside use. The amount of water usedcan be reduced without creating serious plantproblems. During dry summers, local waterauthorities may cut off water for outside useor only allow watering on certain days. Bothmeasures are necessary and effective meansto reduce water consumption and relieve thestrain on city water supplies.Water-efficient landscaping does not meanusing only desert plants. It means making anexisting landscape or garden more waterefficient or developing a new site with lowwater needs.Knowing when to water is the keyto water conservationMany fungi and bacteria that cause plantdiseases are transmitted by splashing waterand require several hours of water on leavesand stems to cause infection. Some of thesediseases can be controlled or reduced bywatering only the roots of the plants, orwatering the foliage only in the morning ondry days when water on the leaves will dryquickly. Drip irrigation can also preventfoliage from getting wet. Hosing down rosesand other woody ornamental plants withwater will often help to control aphids.Water will be absorbed with less evaporationif you irrigate during the cooler parts of theday. Early morning from 6 to 8 a.m. is idealbecause during this time the water pressureis highest, disruption of the water patternfrom wind is low, and leaves will dryquickly. Evening watering is efficient, butplants that are susceptible to leaf disease aremore likely to be infected if leaves stay wetfor too long. The least efficient wateringtime is during the heat of the day whenevaporation is rapid.Most fungal and bacterial diseases require afilm of water in order to infect plants. Orientrows so winds will help foliage dry quicklyafter rain or watering. To prevent spreadingdiseases, do not work in the garden whenplants are wet with rain or dew.Selecting the irrigation for the right jobAutomatic irrigation systems with pop-upsprinklers are often associated withexcessive irrigation. This is not necessarilytrue. Properly designed and operated systemscan supply water uniformly over an entirearea. Scheduling systems properly canensure the correct amount of water isapplied.Where irrigation is required, efficient wateruse is extremely important. Efficientirrigation systems can save a lot of water.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-4
For landscape (shrubs, trees and flowers),trickle or drip irrigation are the most waterefficient systems. Overhead sprinklinggenerally is less efficient than watering atthe soil surface or within the soil. During hotweather, considerable water is lost toevaporation when overhead sprinkling isused. Root depth is closely related to thewatering depth. Deeper roots draw moisture from a largervolume of soil and therefore require lesssupplemental irrigation. Any grassmanagement technique that producesdeeper roots will improve lawnperformance under dry conditions.Ideally, you want to apply enough water tohave the top 6 inches moist but not soggywet. If water starts to run off before areas arethoroughly soaked, stop the sprinklers orhoses, and do not start watering again untilsoil is capable of absorbing additional water.Efficiency is lost rapidly when water runsoff the surface. Taller grass provides shading of the soilsurface, reduces water loss, and reduceslethal temperatures near the base of grassplants. Mow once a week and maintain aminimal height of 2 inches (5 cm). Lawns mowed weekly at a taller mowingheight are less likely to be scalped.Scalped lawns lose density and haveshallow root systems.A Landscape Irrigation SchedulingCalculator has been developed to helphomeowners and other landscape irrigatorsschedule irrigation properly based on planttype, system type, climate and location. Thecalculator can be accessed from theIrrigation Industry Association of BritishColumbia (IIABC) website atwww.irrigationbc.com.Quick facts on watering Lawns and plants may require as muchas 1 to 1-1/2 inches of water per weekfrom irrigation or rainfall during summerto remain green and actively growing. During extended periods of summerdrought, dormant lawns (browned-outleaves) containing Kentucky bluegrass,tall fescue or perennial ryegrass shouldreceive 1-1/2 inches of irrigation everytwo weeks to maintain hydrated grasscrowns and allow for full lawn recoverywhen more favourable moisture andtemperature return in the fall. It is better to water for a longer period oftime (as much water as soil is capable ofabsorbing) and less watering periods.Handling Crop Residues /Sanitation / Weed ControlMany plant diseases and insect pestsoverwinter in plant refuse in the homegarden. Basic pest control begins withcleaning up infected plant debris during thegrowing season and after harvest. During thegrowing season, remove infected leaves andfruit immediately and dispose of diseasedplants before they contaminate others. At theend of the growing season, remove deadplants and unharvested fruit and vegetablesto reduce pest and disease problems nextseason. For example, remove and rake updead leaves on strawberry plants afterharvest to reduce botrytis grey mold on nextyear’s fruit. Refer to the section oncomposting, page 7-2 for more informationon what plant materials can be safelycomposted. Control weeds that attract orsupport insect populations and harbour plantdiseases that may spread to other plants.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-5
Greenhouse SanitationSanitation is very important in preventinginsect pest and disease problems ingreenhouses. Gardeners who use agreenhouse to start seedlings fortransplanting, store potted plants to extendtheir season or to overwinter plants shouldpractice good sanitation: Do not leave discarded dead plants in ornear the greenhouse. Compost or burythem, or send to a landfill.Prevent weed growth in and around thegreenhouse during and after the growingseason. Leave a three meter strip ofweed-free ground or mowed lawn aroundthe greenhouse to help prevent the entryof mites, leafhoppers, aphids, thrips,weevils and other pests.Screen all openings to prevent insectsfrom flying in.At the end of the season, wash benchesand the inside of the greenhouse,including walkways, with a disinfectantsuch as a solution of 1 part householdbleach in 9 parts water.Use clean pots; wash pots thoroughlywith bleach as above.Use new or steam-sterilized potting mixor growth media.In small greenhouses, disease management isobtained mainly by cultural practices such asreducing humidity, increasing air circulation,proper watering and sanitation. Manydiseases that develop in greenhouses areaffected by environmental conditions. Highhumidity, over-watering and poor aircirculation will increase the growth andspread of many fungal and bacterialdiseases. During winter, low light levelsreduce the growth of plants and can alsomake them more susceptible to root rot andother diseases. To avoid root rot, waterplants as needed rather than on a regularschedule. Excess water will reduce theamount of oxygen available to roots andincrease the growth of root-rottingorganisms. During the winter, plants use lesswater than during hotter and sunnier periods.TillageTillage can be used to control weeds, and ismost successful when done on a warm daywhen weeds will wilt and die quickly.Annual and biennial weeds withoutextensive tap roots and perennial seedlingsare readily destroyed by tillage. The youngerthe weed, the easier it is to control. Tillingalso can be used to bring larvae and pupae ofsome insect pests onto the soil surface,where they may be exposed to desiccation,predation or freezing. Tilling under cropdebris in the fall also helps to destroy thehabitat for many overwintering insects andplant pathogens, thereby reducing theirpopulations the following year.MulchesMulches help create healthy soil and plantsthat are less susceptible to insect pests anddiseases. Mulch is any coarse material, eitherorganic or inorganic, spread on the surfaceof the soil to prevent moisture loss, inhibitthe germination and growth of weeds andmake them easy to remove if they do grow.Mulch also keeps the soil cooler in thesummer and warmer in the winter. Coveringsoil with mulch will reduce compaction,erosion and soil splash during the rainyseason. Organic mulches such as compost,manure or lawn clippings improve soilproperties, e.g. structure and aeration,provide nutrients for the plants and feed thebeneficial microbes in the soil. If lawnclippings are used as a mulch, they need tobe dried and applied in a 5 – 10 cm (2-4”)layer. Do not use clippings from a lawnrecently treated with herbicide.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-6
Organic mulches that have not beencomposted such as raw bark and wood chipsare not as effective as composted organicmulches because they compete with theplants and microbes for nitrogen and tend toacidify the soil. Thick mulches can also slowsoil warming and plant growth in the spring.plastic off the ground. Cover the area with adouble layer of clear polyethylene sheet, sealthe edges with soil and leave it in place for4-6 weeks during the heat of the summer(mid-June through mid-August). If possible,leave the poly in place over the winter toprevent re-contamination. Black plastic isless effective than clear plastic.Landscape FabricRow CoversHorticultural fabric or landscape fabric isoften used as a ground cover to inhibit weedgrowth in landscape plantings. The fabricused should be porous to allow irrigationwater and rain to penetrate through thefabric. Landscape fabric is often coveredwith a wood chip mulch after planting. Thereare many types and qualities of landscapefabric. It can be woven or non-woven, heavyor light duty, black, white or coloured. Theuse of black, impermeable plastic isdiscouraged as it restricts the infiltration ofwater, the movement of oxygen and carbondioxide and may cause the roots to overheat.For more information on the use of mulchesfor weed control see “Integrated WeedManagement”, page 21-2.Excluding insect pests from vegetable orsmall fruit crops may reduce or eliminate theneed for insecticides. This can be achievedby using fine-screened cages or “floating”row covers, which are plastic mesh coverson wire hoops that are placed over the crop.To be successful, the soil must be free of alllife stages of the insect pest one wants toexclude. Open the cage or lift the row coverto weed or harvest early in the morningwhile it is cool. This is when adult insectsare less likely to be flying and getting underthe protective covering. Be sure to replacethe cover promptly when you finish weedingor harvesting.Soil SolarizationSoil solarization is a non-chemical techniquethat will control many soil-borne pathogensand pests, including root and foliar diseasesand some weeds. Solarization involvescapturing the heat of the sun by covering thesoil with transparent polyethylene plasticsheets during warm sunny months. The soiltemperatures under the plastic increase tolevels lethal to many soil-borne plantpathogens, weed seeds, seedlings, andnematodes. It is usually necessary to take theland to be solarized out of production for ayear. Soil should be tilled beforesolarization, and should also have a goodsoil moisture level. The area to be treatedshould be level and free of weeds, plantdebris, and large clods which would raise theRow covers are most helpful for crops thatare susceptible to many insect pests, such asbroccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage,cauliflower, rutabagas, and carrots. Rowcovers are not suitable for protectingpotatoes or tomatoes because they can makelate blight worse by encouraging rank leafgrowth. Instead, grow potatoes and tomatoesunder a clear plastic shelter or overhang tokeep the rain off.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-7
NettingHand Picking InsectsNetting can be used as a physical barrier toprotect plants and fruit from insects, birds,wasps and other pests. An example would be“Kootenay Covers”. These speciallydesigned net bags can be placed over cherrytrees up to 18 feet in diameter for preventionof cherry fruit fly damage. For moreinformation on management techniques forcherry fruit fly, see page 19-37. Coveringgrapevines or blueberry bushes with nettingat harvest time will help prevent birds fromdamaging or eating the fruit.Hand picking insects is a practical methodfor pest control in a home garden, especiallyif the pests are large and easily seen. Makesure to properly identify the pest so that it isnot confused with a beneficial insect. It isimportant to be thorough by checking theundersides of leaves, the base of the leafstem, and around the base of the plant. Someinsects prefer feeding in the early morning,or during the day or night. For example,cutworms feed mostly at night and hide atthe base of the plant between the loose drysoil layer and the firm moist layer during theday. Check the garden at different times. Tokill insects, place them in a bucket of watercontaining powdered laundry detergent.StakingKootenay cover on a plum treeBoiling WaterWeeds in driveways and growing betweenpatio stones can be killed with boiling water.Slowly and carefully pour boiling hot wateronto the crown of the weed plant (wear longpants and closed-toe shoes). This methodmay be more effective if the top growth ofthe plant is cut off before pouring the water.Pour just a few inches above the plant crownto avoid any splashing. Some perennialplants with long taproots (such as dandelion)may re-grow from the lower root area.Repeated treatments may be needed.Staking plants or planting them in wire cageswill help prevent the fruit from touching thesoil and rotting. Without some attachment toa stake, fence or cage, tomatoes can floponto the ground where slugs and other pestsmay chew on the leaves and eat the fruit.Staking plants so they do not touch theground also creates good air circulationthrough the foliage of the plant, helping toprevent disease.VacuumingVacuuming is a safe and effective part of anIPM sanitation program around the home.Vacuuming frequently and thoroughlyremoves food particles and other debris thatpests feed on. Vacuuming also can be usedto manage pests directly and can be usefulwhen managing bedbugs. Pest controlcompanies will use industrial-type vacuumsto suck up cockroaches, flies, ants, spiders,and other pests. After vacuuming, thevacuum bag should be dropped into asealable plastic bag and discarded.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-8
Pruning for Pest ManagementMost trees and shrubs need some pruning forsize, shape and continued good growth.Pruning should also be used to remove limbsdamaged by environmental stress, disease orinsect pests. Removing dead, diseased orinsect-infested branches promptly willreduce damage and spread of the pest ordisease to other trees and shrubs in the area.Pruning can also improve light and aircirculation, reducing wetness and humiditywhich lead to many disease problems.Improper pruning, however, can cause planthealth problems such as bleeding, loss offlowers or fruit, winter dieback, and splittingof wood due to frost injury.should be washed off pruners and knivesimmediately after use.The Pruning GroupsPruning requires knowledge of the growing,flowering and fruiting habits of the plant.Following is a list of 6 main pruning groupsand when to prune them.Group12Pruning to manage pest or disease problems,such as fire blight, should be done when thedamage is seen and separate from regularpruning for size and vigour.Pruning Guidelines3Pruning versus Shearing:Pruning is selective cutting, whereasshearing is non-selective and is used forhedges and other plants with small brancheswhich would be very difficult to pruneselectively. Pruning for disease and pestcontrol is usually selective.4Tools:Bypass pruners, pruning saw, loppers, polepruner, and knife.Keep tools sharp, well lubricated and clean.When pruning out pest problems, especiallydiseased wood, disinfect knives or prunersbetween cuts by dipping or wiping with adisinfectant such as rubbing alcohol orLysol. A 10 to 20% bleach solution is alsoeffective but it is corrosive to metals and56Type of tree or shrub Best time forpruningFlowers and fruitDormantborne mainly on two- season,year-old wood:generally lateapples, pears,February orcherries, red currants. March.Flowers and fruitDormantborne mainly on one- season,year-old wood: black generally incurrants, raspberries, late Februaryblackberries,or March.loganberries, peaches.Flowers and fruitDormantborne mainly on one- season,year-old and oldergenerally inwood: plums,late Februarygooseberries, highor March.bush blueberry.Flowering shrubs that Prune afterset buds in summerflowering.for the followingspring: rhododendron,forsythia, azalea,lilac.Deciduous trees that Summer, fallbleed sap in theor earlyspring: maple, alder, winter whenchestnut, plane,sap is notbeech.running.Coniferous trees and March orshrubsApril.Prevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pest Management Guide5-9
How and Why to PruneGeneral Points to Remember1. To remove dead, diseased, or insectinfested wood: Scrape the bark until you see somewhite or green tissue, to ensure youare cutting into healthy, live wood. Cut just above a leaf node, bud, orjunction. For fire blight, prune back at least 20cm below the damaged area anddisinfect pruners after each cut. All plants have an established ratiobetween their branch structure and rootstructure. Severe pruning disrupts thisratio and may cause the rapid growth ofsucker shoots. In most cases, winter pruning stimulatesnew growth the following year, whilesummer pruning reduces new growth thefollowing year. All cuts should be made just above aleaf, bud or junction. When removinglarge branches make an undercut first toavoid tearing of the bark and wood. Cutto leave the collar on the tree but do notleave a long stub as it will not heal. If the terminal bud on a branch is on thelower left side then the new growth willgo in that direction; if the bud is on thetop, growth will be upwards, and so on. Flower and fruit bud development isencouraged by pruning. Space branches for good air circulationand convenient height. Cut large branches to encourage runoffof rainwater. Inspect plants as you go for insect anddisease cankers, snow and winterdamage, rodent injury, weed-eater cuts,wire collars and vandalism. Take your time and remember, “Wander,ponder then prune”.2. To remove inappropriate branches, pruneout: cross-overs branches that are in the wrongdirection branches that are too close togetheror parallel sucker shoots and water spouts weak shoots and branches lying onthe ground3. To thin: selectively remove branches orportions of branches back to ajunction or bud take out no more than about 1/8th ofthe leaf area4. To renew plant vigour: (This encouragesnew growth from the base of the plantand is used on many flowering shrubs). remove 1/8 to 1/3 of the old canes orstalks to the base of the plant5. To head: (Causes some plants to becomevery bushy with new shoots) cut off the tip or end of the branch ata bud do not shear, top or pinchPrevention and Cultural Methods for Pest Management - Home and Garden Pes
Prevention & Cultural Methods for Pest Management By using preventative and cultural pest management practices, the gardener or landscaper can achieve more consistent, long-term pest management. A number of preventative measures can be taken to reduce the likelihood of certain pests becoming a problem. By preventing pest problems, the
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