Formulation & Evaluation Of Shampoo
FORMULATION &EVALUATION OFSHAMPOODr. Gitika DhingraAssistant ProfNCRD’s Sterling Institute ofPharmacy, Nerul, Navi Mumbai
Shampoos, contd Outline IntroductionProduct IngredientsManufacturing ProcessEvaluation of ShampoosMyths about shampoo usageReferences
A shampoo is a preparation of asurfactant (i.e. surface activematerial) in a suitable form – liquid,solid or powder – which when usedunder the specified conditions willremove surface grease, dirt, and skindebris from the hair shaft and scalpwithout adversely affecting the user.
Introduction, contd Why Shampoos are needed?1.2.3.4.47/5/2019Completely remove dirtProtect the hairSoothe the scalp skinTreat dandruff, lice or otherscalp problems
Introduction, contd How Shampoos work?5
Formulation ParametersShampooviscous liquidsclear or opaqueContaining 20–40% solidspH 5.5viscosities 500–1500 centipoise7/5/2019
Raw MaterialsFormulation Ingredients77/5/2019a) Waterb)Surfactants(Foam Boosters andStabilizers)
Raw MaterialsFormulation Ingredients87/5/2019c) pH adjustersd) Viscosity modifierse) Sequestering Agents
Raw MaterialsFormulation Ingredients97/5/2019f)Opacifiersg)Conditioning Agentsh) Anti-dandruff Agents
Formulation IngredientsRaw es
Formulation Ingredients, contd WaterThis is the main ingredient in all shampoopreparations, comprising about 60-80%of the solution. It aids in diluting thecleaning agents, thereby reducingirritation. It makes the shampoo formulaeasier to spread on the hair and scalp.
Formulation Ingredients, contd SurfactantsSurfactants are compounds that lower theinterfacial tension of a between two phases.These are molecules that possess bothhydrophillic and lipophillic moieties in theirstructure. they get adsorbed on the interface andhelps the phases to misciblize.1. Principal surfactants: Provide detergency andfoam.2. Secondary surfactants: Improve detergency, foamand hair condition.
Formulation Ingredients, contd Surfactants Anionic surfactants are mostly used (good foamingproperties). The hydrophilic portion carries a negativecharge which results in superior foaming, cleaning andend result attributes. Non-ionic surfactants have good cleansing propertiesbut do not have sufficient foaming power. Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used.However, they may be used in low concentration in hairconditioners. Ampholytics, being expensive, are generally not used.However, they are mainly used as secondarysurfactants and good hair conditioners.
Formulation Ingredients, contd SLES is preferred over SLSSodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and SodiumLauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES) play similarrole in shampoos. SLS is a skin, eye andrespiratory tract irritant (EnvironmemtCanada has categorized it as inherentlytoxic to aquatic organisms). To make itless irritating, it is ethoxylated (by addingethylene oxide), resulting in SLES.
Formulation Ingredients, contd Foaming Agents These agents are used to introduce gas bubbles into thewater. The foam, also known as lather, is important, as itfunctions to spread the detergent over the hair and scalp, butit does not participate in cleaning. It is true that a shampoo applied to dirty hair will not foam asmuch as the same shampoo applied to clean hair. This is dueto the sebum inhibiting bubble formation. Thus, a shampoowill foam less on the first shampooing and more on thesecond shampooing. Some of the prescription corticosteroid shampoos do notfoam as much as cosmetic shampoos, but this does not meantheir cleaning is inadequate. Examples: Lauroyl monoethanolamide, sarcosinates
Formulation Ingredients, contd pH AdjustersThese agents are used to prevent the hairshaft from alkalinization. Most detergentsare having alkaline pH, which causes hairshaft swelling. This swelling loosens theprotective cuticle predisposing the hairshaft to demage.Example: Citric acid, Glycollic acid
Formulation Ingredients, contd Thickening AgentsThese agents are used shampoo thick andcreamy. Thickening may be achieved byadding salts or gums. Gums improveviscosity because of their gel-likeproperties.Eg:Tragacanth gum, Gum Karaya, Carboxymethyl cellulose.
Formulation Ingredients, contd How salt act as thickening agent forshampoos containing anionic surfactant The viscosity of the shampoo solution depends onthe size and packing structure of micelles (tinyvesicles of surfactants). In general, higher charge density causes themicelles to repel and result in a thinner solution. The sodium ions from the salt lower the chargedensity of the micelle surface. This makes themmore able to pack closer together and creates athicker solution.
Formulation Ingredients, contd Sequestering AgentsThese are the agents to chelate magnesiumand calcium ions, present in hard water,preventing formation of insoluble soaps(scum). This scum film will make hairs lookdull and may contribute to itching andsymptoms of seborrheic dermititis.Eg:EDTA
Formulation Ingredients, contd Opacifying Agents Chemical agents added to the preparationto make it opaque, so that light does notpass through. These are usually added togive pearly shine, which offers noimproved cleansing. It provides onlyoptical effect. Eg: Spermaceti, Alkanolamides of higherfatty acids, propylene glycol, Mg, Ca andZn salts of stearic acid etc
Formulation Ingredients, contd Conditioners The conditioner functions to impart manageability, gloss, andantistatic properties to the hair. These are usually fattyalcohols, fatty esters, vegetable oils, mineral oils, orhumectants. Commonly used conditioning substances includehydrolyzed animal protein, glycerin, dimethicone, simethicone,polyvinylpyrrolidone, propylene glycol etc. Protein-derived substances are popular conditioners fordamaged hair, as they can temporarily mend split ends. Splitends arise when the protective cuticle has been lost from thedistal hair shaft and the exposed cortex splits. The proteinderived substances holds the cortex fragments together untilthe next shampooing occurs.
Conditioners22
Formulation Ingredients, contd Anti-dandruff Agents Medicated shampoos contain small amount ofthese actives, which are in contact with thescalp for only a short time. In order to beeffective the active ingredient must work in theoil-water environment of the scalp and must bereadily substantive to the scalp for continuingactivity. Ex: Selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithone, salicylicacid.
Formulation Ingredients, contd PerfumesShampoos include perfumes that aremostly concentrated.Example: Fruit fragrance
Formulation Ingredients, contd ColorsUsed to impart color, different colors areused.
Formulation Ingredients, contd PreservativesShampoo formula containing water has thepotential to be contaminated by pathogens.For this reason it is essential to includepreservatives among shampoo ingredients,to prevent the growth of molds.Preservatives usually comprise only 0.1 –0.5% of the formulation.
Manufacturing Procedure Some agents are waxy solids at ambienttemperature and require melting in adrum oven or similar before use. Demineralised water is most commonlyused in order to minimize contaminationof the product. No further processing is required afterblending, and the product may be packedoff directly from the mixing vessel.
Quality ControlFoam Stability: Cylinder shake method isused for determining foaming ability. 50mlof the 1% shampoo solution is put in250ml graduated cylinder, cover thecylinder with hand and shake for 10 times.The total volumes of the foam contentsafter 1 minute shaking is recorded. Thefoam volume is calculated. Foam shouldretain for atleast 5mins.Foam Stability V2-V1
Quality Control, contd Wetting ActionCanvas disk is used to determine wettingaction. It is one inch in diameter. It floatson the surface of a solution. The timerequired for it to sink is measuredaccurately.
Quality Control, contd Dirt DispersionPut two drops of shampoo in a large testtube. Add 10ml dirt water and one drop ofIndian Ink. Close the Test tube and shakefor 5min.Estimate the amount of Ink in the foam.The dirt should stay in water portion.
Quality Control, contd Viscosity Determination Brookefield Viscometer is used to determine viscosityof shampoos. 100ml of shampoo is taken in a beakerand spindle is dipped in it for about 5min and thenreading is taken. Ostwald viscometer may be used for thinner shampoos.
Quality Control, contd pH Determination Mix 1gram of shampoo with 9ml of waterand determine the pH using pH meter at27o Celsius. pH paper may be used to determine pH.
Quality Control, contd Skin Irritability TestDraize test is performed in albino rabbits.A set of six rabbits are used for testing eachmaterial. Shampoos should be tested onlyfor a short duration, for not more than4hours. These preparations are dilutedbetween concentrations of 8 to 10%.
You need lather toknow it's reallyworking.IS IT A MYTH ?
You need lather to know it's really working, contd Facts about usage of shampoosFoaming occurs when surfactant moleculesin the shampoo mix with air and create tonsof tiny bubbles. Ideally, while shampooinghair, head should have only enough lather tolubricate the hair and scalp.7/5/201935
After a while, your hairgets used to yourshampoo. That's whyyou need to switch to anew brand occasionally.IS IT A MYTH ?
After a while, your hair gets used to your shampoo , contd Facts about usage of shampoosMYTH.Hair shaft is a dead structure. So it can't get usedto anything. It's just perception of how your hairresponds to a new formula.The same shampoo used on the same hair underthe same conditions produces the same results. Ifyou are using the right shampoo for your hairtexture, you will get the same great results.7/5/201937
CROWNING GLORY OFBEAUTIFUL HAIR ISDEPENDENT UPON USINGA PARTICULAR HAIRCLEANSING PREPARATIONIS IT A MYTH ?
Crowning glory of beautiful hair is dependent upon using a particular haircleansing preparation, contd Facts about usage of shampoos Hair shaft consists of three layers, namely cuticle,cortex and medulla. Cuticle the outermost layer ismade up of 7-10 layers of hard keratin. The Cortex,made up of hard keratin, constitutes approx 80%of hairs total mass. It is a complicated structure ofparallel twisted fibre (polypeptide chains); theappearance is similar to a rope, , hydrogen and disulphide bond. The medulla is found in the centerof the hair shaft. Not every hair has a medulla.7/5/201939
Crowning glory of beautiful hair is dependent upon using a particular haircleansing preparation, contd Facts about usage of shampoos The hair follicle is a pocket in the skin from where the hairgrows. The follicle grows through the epidermis and intothe dermis. There are three main parts of the follicle:Papilla, The Germinal Matrix and The Hair Bulb. The papilla is found at the bottom of the follicle in thedermis. This is where the blood capillaries pass nutrients(food) and oxygen into the cells of the germinal matrix.New cells start the process of keratinization at hair bulb. Thus, hair shaft is a dead structure. it gets nutrition fromthe dermis. Hair cleansing preparations helps to makehairs look better but does not provide nutrition.7/5/201940
Frequentshampooing driesyour hair.IS IT A MYTH ?
Frequent shampooing dries your hair, contd Facts about usage of shampoosIt is quite the contrary! Shampooing, if donecorrectly and with the right products,actually remoisturizes. The natural oilsproduced by your scalp simply sit on top ofyour hair shaft and do not penetrate it. It’smoisture (i.e water) that does this, and alsoa well formulated conditioner.7/5/201942
Washing every daycan be bad for yourhair.IS IT A MYTH ?
Washing every day can be bad for your hair, contd Facts about usage of shampoosMOSTLY MYTH. If you have oily hair, it's fine towash every day--but even oily types should use agentle formula (one with moisturizing ingredients,like silicones, shea butter, or panthenol). People withcoarse or dry hair might want to be moreconservative and wash every other day. No matterwhat kind of hair you have, as long as you stay awayfrom harsh formulas that strip natural oils and treatyour strands with conditioner, regular shampooingwon't do any harm.7/5/201944
Frequentshampooing makeshair oilier.IS IT A MYTH ?
Frequent shampooing makes hair oilier, contd Facts about usage of shampoos Myth. Clean clothes show dirt immediately.Similarly, clean hair shows grease fasterthan hair that is already oily. It is a matter ofindividual perception. Things that actuallycan increase oil production are hormonesand stress.7/5/201946
Frequentshampooing makeshair fall out.IS IT A MYTH ?
Frequent shampooing makes hair fall out, contd Facts about usage of shampoos No. It is natural to lose up to 100 hairs a day and apercentage of this comes out when you shampoo. Theact of shampooing simply dislodges hairs that havealready become detached from the follicle’s base areready to come out. However, on a day you don't shampoo, while some ofthose strands will come out when you brush and style,some of them will also remain sitting loosely in the hairfollicle. This means that the more days you leavebetween shampooing, the more you will see in the drain.7/5/201948
1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10.ReferencesBalsam, S.M., Gershon, S.D., Rieger, M.M., Sagarin, E., and Strianse, S.J.: COSMETICS–Science and Technology, 2nd edition, Vol-2, John Wiley India, New Delhi, 2008Barel, A.O., Paye, M., and Maibach, H.I.: Handbook of Cosmetic Science andTechnology, 3rd Edition, Informa Healthcare, New York.Sharma, P.P.: COSMETICS - Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, 4thEdition, Vandana Publishers Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi, March 1998.Butler, H.: POUCHER’S – Perfumes, Cosmetics & Soaps, 10th Edition, Springer,Cockermouth, Cumbria, USA, 2000.Salador, A., and Chisvert, A.: Analysis of cosmetic products, Elsevier, New York, 2006.Ross, J., and Miles, G.D.: An application for comparison of foaming properties ofsoaps and detergents, Oil and Soap, 1941.Mittal,: A Handbook of CosmeticsFredell, W.G., and Powers, D.H.: Factors attributing to the performance of shampoosand to consumer acceptance, Proc. Sci. Sec., 1955.Rajkumar, K. J., Invitro evaluation of shampoos.www.cosmeticdatabase.com
Gitika Arora DhingraNCRD’s Sterling Institute of Pharmacy, Nerul, Navi MumbaiE-mail: gitika.dh@gmail.com
ANIONIC SURFACTANTSCLASSEXAMPLECOMMENTTend to yield an “airy” or low density foamand often are drying to the hairAlkyl benzenesulfonatesSodium dodecyl benzenesulfonatePrimary alkyl sulfatesLauric acid, stearic acid and Good lathering effect in hard water, free fromtheir saltsrancidity, easy to wash.Secondary alcoholsulfatesSodium sec-lauryl sulfateLow cost, dispersing and emulsifying action,dissapointing as detergets and shampoocomponentsAlkyl benzenepolyoxyethylenesulfonatesTriton X200Stable in acid or alkaline solution, excellentemulsifier, detergent and wetting agent;extremely stable at pH of skinSulfatedmonoglyceridesLauric monoglycerideammonium sulfateStable in hard waterAlkyl ether sulfatesDerivatives of lauryl alcoholether with PEGGood cleansers, act as solvents for non polaradditivesSarcosinesLauroyl and cocoylsarcosinesExcellent foaming and conditioning actionSulfosuccinatesAerosol OTLess irritating to skin and eye (baby shampoo)MayponProtalbinic and lysalbinicHydrolysation product of proteins with fattyacid derivatives (maypon 4C) acid chlorides in presence of alkali
NON-IONIC SURFACTANTSCLASSEXAMPLEFatty acidalkanolamides (shouldnot be used 15%)Lauric monoethanolamideImproves solubility of SLSStearic ethanolamidePearlescent thickenerOleic ethanolamidesHair conditioning agentsPolyalkoxylatedderivativesEthoxylated fatty alcoholsStable in wide range of pH; stabilizingemulsifying and opacifying propertiesBlock polymers (pluronics)Good rinsability, can be used in high %Sorbitol esters (TWEENS)Solubilizers and emulsifiers, used in babyshampoosCoconut and dodecyldimethyl amine oxidesFoam booster and anti-static agentsAmine oxidesCOMMENTSAMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTSβ – aminoacid derivativesFoaming agentsAspargine derivativesCompatible with both anionic andcationic surfactantsBetainsAmido betainsHigh foaming properties, mild.Alkyl imidazolineMIRANOLTMBaby shampoosN-alkyl aminoacids
FORMULATIONSPOWDER SHAMPOOLOTION SHAMPOOHenna powder5%TLS35%Soap powder50%Glyceryl monostearate2%Sodium carbonate22.5%Magnesium stearate1%Potassium carbonate7.5%WaterUpto 100%Borax15%Colorq.sPerfumeq.SPerfume, preservativesq.sLIQUID SHAMPOOSLS40%NaCl (to desired viscosity)2-4%WaterUpto 100%Perfume, color, preservativesq.s
FORMULATIONSCREAM SHAMPOOAEROSOL SHAMPOOSLS38%TLS60%Cetyl alcohol7%Coconut diethanolamide2%WaterUpto 100%WaterUpto 90%Color, perfumeq.SPropellent10%Preservativeq.sColor, perfume, preservativeq,.sJELLY SHAMPOOSAlkyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride15%TLS (40%)28%Coconut ditethanolamide7%HPMC1%WaterUpto 100%Color, perfume, preservativeq.s
FORMULATIONSCONDITIONING SHAMPOOSSteryl dimethyl benzylammonium chloride5.5%Ethylene glycolmonostearateBABY SHAMPOOMagnesium lauryl sulfate (27.5%)11%2%Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%)5%Cetyl alcohol2.5%Polysorbate 201%WaterUpto 100%PEG 6003.5%Perfumeq.SPreservativeq.SCitric acidTo pH 6Color, perfume, preservative q.sTWO LAYER SHAMPOOSLS27%Cocamidopropylamine oxide5%Lauramine DEA1%Colorq.SLactic acid (50%)1%Water (deionised); Aqua (INCI)To 100%Formaldehyde0.1%
FORMULATIONSANTI-DANDRUFF rColor, perfume, preservativeANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOOSelenium sulfide2.5%Bentonite5%SLS paste35%upto 100Waterupto 100q.sColor, perfume, preservativeq.s
FORMULATIONHERBAL SHAMPOONatural essential oil blend0.5%Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (Guar Gum)1%Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) extract2%Glycerin1%Hydrolysed wheat protein2.5%Salvia officinalis (Sage) leaf extract1.5%Salvia officinalis (Sage)1.5%Glyceryl oleate1%Polysorbate 200.5%Potassium sorbate5%Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera) extract0.5%Arctium minus (Burdock) root extract0.5%Disodium coco-glucoside sulfosuccinate0.5%Preservativesq.s.WaterUpto 100%
FORMULATION & EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO Dr. Gitika Dhingra Assistant Prof E Z [ o]vP/v ] µ }(Pharmacy, Nerul , Navi Mumbai . . 0.5% of the formulation. Manufacturing Procedure Some agents are waxy solids at ambient temperature and require melting in a drum oven or similar before use. .
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COMPLETE REPAIR SHAMPOO HIGH NUTRITIVE SHAMPOO PURE BALANCE SHAMPOO DERMO BALANCE SHAMPOO DEFINED VOLUME SHAMPOO SHINE COLOR SHAMPOO COMPLETE REPAIR CONDITIONER . PURE NATURAL ACTIVES IN VIVO TESTED ACADEMIC SUPPORT ITALIAN STYLE WOMAN FRIENDLY Alcohol-free Vegetable-derived cleansers Suitable for the most
weight of shampoo only. Put the evaporating dish with shampoo on the hot plate until the liquid portion has evaporated. After drying, weighed the dish and shampoo solids and results were noted. 3. Foam formation: (Shake Test) Took 50 ml of the 1% shampoo solution in 250 ml graduated cylinder and recorded the volume. Then cover the
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natural extracts formulations nourish the hair and give it volume, shine and softness. 500 ml Hair care NETTLE shampoo greasy hair WHEAT & GREEN TEA 2 in 1 dry hair ALOE VERA shampoo all hair types CALENDULA shampoo dry hair CALENDULA conditioner dry hair GREEN APPLE shampoo frequent use EGG & HONEY shampoo dry hair CHAMOMILE conditioner all .
Smooth Care Page 32 Straightening m ask and Straightening Shampoo Re Balance Page 33 Rebalance Shampoo and Scrub Gel Pre-Shampoo Shampoo Nutri Care Page 34 Restructuring mask, Restructuring Shampoo and c onditioner, Repairing fluid crystals and 10 in 1 Curly Shine Page 35 curly wavy mask an
Chavan et. al., Am. J. PharmTech Res. 2019; 9(05) ISSN: 2249-3387 89 www.ajptr.com INTRODUCTION People often complain about various brand of a shampoo that has caused various conditions such as scalp irritation, hair loss1.Herbal shampoo is the cosmetic preparations that with the use of traditional Ayurvedic herbs are meant for cleaning the hair and scalp just like regular shampoo.
