In Real Time - Oris

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in re al timeoris marks 110 yearso f watc h m a k i n g w i t h ag r o u n d - b r e a k i n g n e w m ov e m e n t

o r i s 1 1 0 y e a r si n r e a l t i m ewww.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m ea lifetime ofinnovationThe ground-breakingnew Oris 110 Years LimitedEdition – seen here witha solid 18-carat rose goldcase, crown and pinbuckle – is the latest ina long line of innovativeOris timepiecesANOTHER f i r s t FROM ORISgood timesWith Oris’s 110th anniversary comes one of the mostinnovative watches not just in the brand’s history, butin the history of luxury Swiss watchmakingAnniversaries come around thick and fast in the watchindustry. But they don’t always bring pioneering watchinnovations that make a significant contribution tothe horological landscape. Oris is 110 years old this year,a date that will be remembered in the company’s longand illustrious history for the launch of the Oris 110 YearsLimited Edition, a watch with a 10-day power reserveand a patented non-linear power reserve indicator. Thiscombination has never been seen before in watchmaking.Oris was founded in 1904 in the small Swiss townof Hölstein, where it remains today. The vision of itsfounders was to produce good-quality watches atreasonable prices, offering consumers timepieces thatweren’t out of reach. That philosophy has been passeddown through the generations, and continues to informevery watch that Oris produces today.The company is independent and therefore free tochoose its own path. That path has made Oris one of ahandful of watch companies that only makes mechanicalwatches – there’s not a single quartz piece in the collection.Every watch is Swiss Made, and made with a purpose. Oriswatches are functional, high-performing and designed tobe used in everyday life, and are ultimately judged by thebrand strapline, ‘real watches for real people’.

o r i s 1 1 0 y e a r si n r e a l t i m ewww.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m ebelow:for all the worldThis postcard was createdin 1910 and showcases Oris’sfirst three factories and itsdiverse global client base1904—1919in thebeginningNamed after a stream, Oris had humble origins. The companywas founded by two men, whose early 20th-century visionwould quickly grow into one of the biggest names in the industryThe Oris story began 110 years ago when watchmakersPaul Cattin and Georges Christian arrived in the townof Hölstein, nestled in the picturesque foothills ofSwitzerland’s Jura Mountains. They purchased therecently closed Lohner & Co watch factory and, takinginspiration from their new surroundings, decided to calltheir company Oris after a nearby brook. On June 1, 1904,Cattin and Christian met and signed a contract with alocal notary, making it official – Oris was in business.In 1904, pocket watches were the fashion, andCattin and Christian wasted no time in launching Oris’sfirst model. It had an 18-carat gold case and a classic,conservative design, featuring Roman numerals andan open, white dial. It was well-received, and helpedOris establish a reputation for quality.On the back of this, Oris began investing in promotingits growing collection with advertisements and cataloguesproduced in a number of languages. Oris designs wereparticularly popular in Britain and its colonies.The company grew fast and by 1910 it was the largestemployer in Hölstein with a workforce of more than 300.Oris built houses to attract workers, and by 1918 it hadfactories on five sites. It began producing wristwatchesin the mid-1910s – a decision that would keep the brand atthe forefront of watchmaking into the 1920s and beyond.1901190219031904o r i s m ov e m e n t s t h at m a d e h i s to r yThe Oris factory in Hölsteinwhere the company hasbeen based for 110 yearsleft:the first tickOris’s first pocket watchwas created in 1904. Ithad an 18-carat goldcase and a simple white,Roman numeral dial1905190619071907French brothersAuguste and LouisLumière launched thefirst practical colourphotography process1908190919101938 Calibre 3731970 Calibre 725The first Pointer CalendarOris’s first chronograph, which1952 Calibre 601appeared in the ChronorisOris’s first automatic pin-lever1991 Calibre 582movement. It had a 36-hourA complicated movement withpower reserve indicatorday, date, moonphase and1966 Calibre 645second time zone indicatorsOris’s first automatic lever1995 Calibre 649be adjusted forwards orescapement movement wasFirst regulator movement. Oris isbackwards in one-hour jumpsproduced in-house and stayedthe first brand to make a diver’swith a push of a buttonin the collection for 20 yearswatch with a regulator dial2013 Calibre 7611968 Calibre 6521997 Calibre 690The Oris-developed PointerOris’s first chronometer-Oris’s ground-breakingMoon, the first mechanicalcertified pin-lever movementWorldtimer movement canwatch to display tidal range1911US explorer Hiram Binghamdiscovers the Incan city ofMachu Picchu19101906The first Grand Prixis held at Le Mans,France, and is wonby Hungarian driverFerenc Szisz1905Norway’s Roald Amundsen is thefirst man to sail the NorthwestPassage. In 1911, he became thefirst man to reach the South Pole19001900above:firm foundations191119121914On New Year’s Day, the firstcommercial airline flight carriespassengers from St Petersburgto Tampa, Florida1913191419151917Charlie Chaplin signs the firstmillion-dollar film contract1916191719181919

o r i s 1 1 0 y e a r si n r e a l t i m ewww.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m e1920—1949an iconis bornBy the 1930s Oris was producing watches that were to becomedesign benchmarks and Oris signatures. As war consumed Europe,the company was forced to diversifyDuring the 1920s and 1930s, Oris continued to expand. In1925, it opened a state-of-the-art electroplating factoryin Herbetswil. Suddenly, it was operating seven factoriesto help meet the worldwide demand for its watches.In 1927, the company mourned as Georges Christian, thelast of its two founders, died. With no natural successor,Oris became a public company, led by Jacques-DavidLeCoultre (who merged Jaeger with LeCoultre to formJaeger-LeCoultre in 1937). He appointed GeorgesChristian’s brother-in-law Oscar Herzog as GeneralManager – a position he would hold for 43 years.In 1934, the ‘Watch Statute’ came into force, prohibitingcompanies from introducing new technologies withoutpermission. This meant that Oris, which had only usedpin-lever escapement movements to that point, was unableto adopt better-quality lever escapements. Undeterred,Oris refined its pin-levers, and in 1945 became the first toreceive a distinction from the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôlede la Marche des Montres in Le Locle for a pin-levermovement. By this time, Oris had introduced its famousBig Crown Line. Launched in 1938, it was the brand’s firstpilot’s watch and the start of a relationship between Orisand the world of aviation that continues to this day.During the Second World War, Oris’s distributionnetwork was reduced significantly. To keep business alive,it manufactured alarm clocks, which led to the celebratedeight-day power reserve model, launched in 1949.growing 3Prohibition in the USends on 5 December193119321936Billboard magazine publishesits first music hit parade. Thefirst record chart will becalculated in 194019331934193519361937193819391940The Oris Pointer Calendarfirst appeared in 1938.In time, it would becomethe company’s signaturewatch designleft: waking up tonew challengesDuring the Second WorldWar, with exports stifled,Oris turned its hand tomaking alarm clocks1941The Mount Rushmore NationalMemorial, featuring the facesof four US presidents carvedinto a rock face, is completed1940192019201927The Jazz Singer, starringAl Jolson, is the firstfeature-length talkie1922British Egyptologist HowardCarter discovers the tomb ofTutankhamun (1337-1327 BC)1930By the mid-1920s, Orisis producing timepiecesunder a number of brandnames. The watchesfeature Roskopf andcylinder movements.This advert from 1926shows its six factoriesunder the strapline ‘Every3 Seconds A Watch’above: an oris icon19411942194319441947Edwin H Landinvents the Polaroidinstant camera19451946194719481949

o r i s c a l i b r e 1 1 0rea l t i m e sta rtswww.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m enowm a k i n g watc h e s t h e h a r d wayThere are two ways to make watches.The easy way, and the right way. Oris’sbelief has always been to make a watchthe best it can possibly be – the right way.Sometimes this can cause a few problems water-tight linesbig crown x1 calculatorThe X1 Calculator has a slide rule top ring.The first designs weren’t water-resistant,1950-1975a common problem with watches withthe golden agethis function. The watch went back to thedrawing board, and in 2011, a year and fivecase constructions later, it was launched– with 30-metre water resistance.It was one of the Swiss watch industry’s most fruitful periods, and Oris wasat the forefront of it – innovating, pioneering and challenging the status quo1951195219531954top: fine linesBetween 1904 and 1981,Oris produced 279 calibresabove: tools ofthe tradeBefore the Quartz Crisis,Oris employed 800 peopleacross its subsidiaries.Some of those were skilledworkers who made tools195619571958above: first timesprodiver rotation safety systemOris’s first chronograph, thelegendary 1970 ChronorisOris worked with a professional diver onthe ProDiver. The challenge was to deliverleft: rise ofthe machinesa watch with a lockable rotating bezel. ItThis transfer manufacturingunit produced mainplatesdeveloped by Oris’s in-houseengineering team. In the 1960sand 1970s, state-of-the-artmachinery helped Orismaintain production levels ofover one million units per yeartook 18 months of development, and theend result was the Rotation Safety System,unveiled in 2009. This patented devicelocks the bezel in place for extra security.1957On November 3, Laika the dogbecomes the first living creatureto orbit the Earth, aboard theSoviet-built Sputnik 21955Don’t turn around19591963Please Please Me, The Beatles’first album is released onMarch 22. It has a run time of32 minutes and 45 seconds1960196119621963196419651967The first Automated TellerMachine, or ATM, is installedby Barclays Bank in London19661967196819691972Pong becomes one of theworld’s first mainstreamvideo games19701952Agatha Christie’s Mousetrap opensin London’s West End, beginninga run that continues into 201419501950hairsprings and jewels, it produced everycomponent in-house, while its subsidiariesmanufactured watchmaking tools.Oris continued to grow, and by the early1970s it was one of the 10 largest watchcompanies in the world. It employed 800people in its factories across Hölstein andbeyond, and produced 1.2 million watchesand clocks a year.In 1970, Oris launched the iconicChronoris, the company’s first chronograph.With its contemporary styling and sportyprofile, it demonstrated a passion for theworld of motor sport, and became one ofOris’s most successful models.1960In 1956, Oris General Manager Oscar Herzogmade a decision that would change Oris’sfortunes, and with them those of the wholeindustry – forever. He appointed a younglawyer, Dr Rolf Portmann, and tasked him withlobbying the Swiss government to overturnthe Watch Statute. It would take Portmann adecade, but he would succeed, leaving Oris freeto introduce lever escapements. In 1966, Orisproduced its first automatic lever escapement,Calibre 645. A hugely reliable movement, itwould stay in the collection for 20 years.By the mid-1950s, Oris had become one ofthe most advanced manufacturers in the Swisswatch industry. Apart from watch hands,197019711972197319741975

o r i s 1 1 0 y e a r si n r e a l t i m eleft: a new eraIn 1984, Oris relaunchedthe Pointer Calendar,which became its signaturedesign. This advert from1988 positioned the brandas a producer of qualitymechanical watches1976-1989the nextgenerationAgainst the onslaught of cheap quartz watches from theFar East in the late 1970s, the traditional Swiss watchindustry was all but wiped out. Come the early 1980s,Oris was on its knees and needed a rescue missionThe end of the 1970s and beginning of the1980s was the Swiss watch industry’s nadir.This was the age of the Quartz Crisis, duringwhich around 900 companies would go outof business, and two-thirds of the workforcewould be laid off. Oris was not immune.In 1970, Oris had been sold to the GeneralWatch Company (which would become SwatchGroup), where it struggled. The businessshrank until it was running on a skeletonstaff by the early 1980s. It was dying, but tworemaining employees saw an opportunity.Dr Rolf Portmann and Head of Marketing,Ulrich W. Herzog, bought the companyout in 1982, becoming chairman and CEOrespectively. They took a typically Orisapproach to handling the new company’sdirection, drawing on its rich heritage andrefocusing on producing mechanical watches.By the mid-1990s, Oris had completely movedaway from quartz watches, sparking therevival of the Swiss watch industry thatwould boom in the years to come.above: a ringingendorsementFollowing the 1982buyout, Oris returnedto mechanical watches.In 1988, it launched theAlarm Wristwatchleft: men on amechanical mission1977Apple II is assembledin Silicon Valley andbecomes the world’sfirst mass-producedhome computer197619771979The SonyWalkman islaunched197819791980Soon after the buyout, newowners Ulrich W. Herzog(left) and Dr Rolf Portmanndecided to focus solely onmechanical watches. It wasa brave decision at the timeas most manufacturersbelieved that the futurelay in quartz19801980Tim Berners-Lee inventsENQUIRE, a software programthat was the precursor tothe World Wide Web19811983The final episode of M*A*S*H drawsan audience of more than 120million viewers in the US andremains the most-watchedfinale of a television series1982198319841987Richard Branson and PerLindstrand complete thefirst transatlantic hot-airballoon crossing1984Bill Scooter flies into the LosAngeles Olympic openingceremony on a jet pack19851986198719881989

www.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m eleading from the front1990-2013The Oris watches still making headlines1990-2013up from the deepSince the buyout, Oris has grown to become one of Switzerland’s most successfulindependent watch brands, with a global reputation for quality and innovation1990199219931994199519961998Sports chronographs are two a penny– but the Artix GT is different. It featuresa unique Oris-developed retrograde smallseconds counter, designed to look like therev counter on a modern race car. Thewatch’s bezel has a ceramic insert anda grippy rubber outside edge.2013: aquis depth gaugeOris’s mission to deliver functional watchesthat don’t compromise on aesthetic or priceinspired the Aquis Depth Gauge. It canrelay depths down to 100 metres, and has aceramic bezel insert and Oris’s quick-adjustsafety clasp, yet costs far less than othermechanical watches with this specifcation.f o u r wo r l d s , o n e b r a n dtop: dive timeIn 2006, Oris became theofficial watch partner offreediver Carlos Coste. Thesame year, he set the worldrecord in the freedivingvariable weight category,descending to 140mabove: a new iconIn 2002, Oris trademarkedits new symbol, the RedRotor, which is visiblethrough the case backof most of the watchesin the collection199920002002On January 1, the Euro enterscirculation. Until then, Greece’sdrachma was the oldestcurrency in Europe2001200220032004Oris’s collection is inspired by fourdivingworlds: Culture, Aviation, DivingThe underwater world is where Oris’sand Motor Sport.form follows function approach toCulturewatchmaking comes into its own.Whether through jazz or the work ofIts diver’s watches are made inChinese artist Liu Bolin, known as thepartnership with professional divers toInvisible Man (left), Oris has a strongensure they perform under pressure.relationship with arts and culture.motor sportAviationOris and motor sport first cameOris’s first pilot’s watch was the 1938together in 1970 with the Chronoris.Big Crown Pointer Calendar, a watchToday, Oris is one of the Williams F1which is still in production today.Team’s long-standing partners.2005YouTube is launched by threeformer PayPal employees. The firstYouTube video shows co-founderJawed Karim at the San Diego Zoo20052006200720101997The Guggenheim MuseumBilbao, designed by FrankGehry, opens19972012: artix GT chronographOris’s love of the skies led to thiscomplicated pilot’s tool watch. The X1has a chronograph, day-date indicatorsand a slide rule bezel for making flightcalculations. It’s also water-resistant to30 metres, highly unusual in a watchwith this intricate bezel construction.Archive: Getty Images1994Ward Cunningham invents thefirst ‘wiki’, a web page that canbe edited via a browser1990Encyclopaedia Britannica sells120,000 sets, more than in anyother year. In 2010, the lastever copy will be printed1991saw the release of limited-edition pieces inhonour of the genre’s legends, including MilesDavis, Charlie Parker and Louis Armstrong.The Oris collection was revamped, andby the late 2000s, it was ripe with beautiful,functional watches such as the ProDiverand the BC4, which won a Red Dot Awardfor product design in 2009. These carriedinnovations such as the Oris Quick LockCrown system, and brought partnershipsto life with leaders in their field, such asthe Williams F1 Team.In 110 years, Oris has survived two worldwars and the Quartz Crisis, emerging asone of Switzerland’s most celebratedindependent Swiss watch brands.20001990Now independent, and with the trials of theQuartz Crisis behind it, Oris began to rebuild.In the 1980s, Ulrich W. Herzog travelled toJapan where he witnessed the growing trendfor mechanical watches. Believing theJapanese to be trendsetters, he decided toabandon quartz and focus on mechanicals. Bythe mid-1990s, Oris had made its last quartzwatch. Mechanical innovations followed,inspired by the brand’s new slogan ‘HighMech’. In 1997, the Oris Worldtimer becamethe world’s first watch with a second time zonethat could be adjusted forwards or backwardsin one-hour jumps with the push of a button.In 1996, Oris sponsored the London JazzFestival, starting an association with jazz that2011: Big crown x1 calculator2008200920102010The Burj Khalifa opensin Dubai after a six-year, 1.5 billion build. At 828m,it’s the world’s tallest building201120122013

o r i s 1 1 0 y e a r si n r e a l t i m ewww.o r i s .c hi n r e a l ti m eone barrel, 10 dayscase studyThe Calibre 110 uses asingle-barrel concept (seeimage, right). Power isstored in a mainspringthat measures 1.8 metresstretched out. The watchhas been engineered so thepower is released evenlyover the 10-day periodThe Oris 110 Years LimitedEdition comes in a choiceof two case materials.There will be a limitedrun of 110 pieces in bothsolid 18-carat rose gold, andstainless steel. The 43mm,multi-piece constructioncase is water-resistantto 30 metresnon-linear powerreserve indicatorThe display at 3 o’clockon the dial indicates theamount of power remainingin the barrel from 10 daysdown to zero. At the topof the scale, the notchesrepresenting the days areclose together, and furtherapart at the bottom. As thepower is released, the handmoves clockwise aroundthe scale, slowly at first,and then more quickly asthe notches become morespread out. This givesthe wearer a far clearerindication of how muchpower is left in the watchas the moment to windit approaches. Oris haspatented this developmentoris calibre 110The first movement fullydeveloped by Oris in 35years. Hand-wound, 3Hz,21,600vph, single barrel,10-day power reserve,non-linear power reserveindicator, 177 parts,including 40 jewels,bridge edges polishedand bevelled by hand,34mm diameter2014 – oris 110 yearspower tothe peopleOris has always been a horological innovator. To mark its 110thanniversary, it has launched a high-performance in-house calibreinside a new watch – the Oris 110 Years Limited Editionin detailsmall secondsThe seconds hand of amechanical watch sweeps,rather than ticks. A‘small seconds

Oris establish a reputation for quality. On the back of this, Oris began investing in promoting its growing collection with advertisements and catalogues produced in a number of languages. Oris designs were particularly popular in Britain and its colon

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