Willamette River - Oregon

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WillametteRiverRe c r e at ionGuide

Governor’stM ESSAGEThe Willamette River is a vitalthread that weaves together thetapestry of the Willamette Valleyand the 19 cities it flows through.The Willamette provides important irrigation for the agriculturalindustry while supporting a variety of recreationalopportunities – from boating and water skiing tofishing and nature viewing. You can expect to seesomething different around every bend of the river,from an osprey swooping in for lunch to a graceful blue heron surveying the scenery; a deer on theshoreline lapping up a drink of water to a beaverswimming along the shore. The Willamette is alsohome to a variety of fish including sturgeon, cutthroat trout and salmon.Not so visible is the importance of this beautiful riverin our state’s history. Early mills, ferries and numerous towns clung to the river for power and transportation. For centuries before the settlers arrived,Native Americans relied on the river’s bounty as well.I invite you to use this Willamette River RecreationGuide to discover this great resource and to connectBob Poolwith the richness it has to offer.FRONT AND BACK cover photoS:Wallace Marine Park, Salem, Oregonleft:Sunset over Willamette River near Salem

ContentsW i ll a m e t te R i v e r map pag eguidep 30SCAPPOOSESECTIONVp 29P O RT L A N DM I LWA U K I Ep 26LAKEOSWEGOp 251Introductionp 27SECTIONIVHistory of the Willamette2-3Plant and Animal Life4-55Willamette-area wildlife refugesGLADSTONEWEST LINNOREGON CITYKeeping Our River Clean6-7Boating on the Willamette8-9NEWBERGp 23River characteristics and hazardsNavigation aidsExcursions and Outingsp 22SECTIONIIISALEM10-11River mileage and float timesPopular Destinations12-13Suggested fishing areasp 21Guide to Oregon State ParksFestivals and eventsRiver Guide and MapsALBANYp 19C O R VA L L I Sp 18SECTIONIIp 1714-32I Middle and Coast Forks14-17II Springfield to Albany18-21III Albany to St. Paul/Newberg22-25IV Newberg to Portland26-29V Multnomah Channel30-32Resources34Index35p 15p 14EUGENEPhoto CreditsOregon State Marine Board (OSMB)SECTIONIC O T TA G EGROVEOregon Parks and Recreation Department (OPRD)Willametter Riverkeeper (WR)Oregon Historical Society (OHS)p 13Front and back cover photos: Larry AndreasenDecember 2007iiiTo learn more about boating in Oregon go to:www.boatoregon.comFor detailed information on state parks in Oregon go to:www.oregonstateparks.org

tIntroduction A bout the WillametteThe Willamette River beginsThe Willamette is a vital, multi-purpose waterway that touches the lives of millions ofpeople. It provides ports for commercial barges and oceangoing ships, irrigation forcrops sold worldwide, an abundant fishery, and recreational opportunities.its nearly 300-mile journey inthe high Cascades southeast ofEugene. Winding through forest,Nearly 70 percent of Oregonians live within 20 miles of the Willamette River, andsome may not even realize it. Although the river passes through nine counties and 19cities, miles of its channels and backwaters cannot be seen from roads or towns. Withmany communities no longer economically dependent on it, the Willamette can beoverlooked – so familiar a part of our landscape that it fades into the background.farmland and city, it travelsnorthward the length of theWillamette Valley before joiningthe Columbia River at Portland.Whether you’re a veteran or a rookie on the Willamette, it is important to respect itswaters. Although considerably tamer than the way explorers found it 200 years ago,the Willamette still changes with each season and even with the daily tides. Never disregard its power or dismiss its hazards.Along the way, it changes froma rushing mountain stream intoa substantial river more than aquarter-mile across.How to Use the GuideThe remainder of the guide provides detailed maps for each section of the Willamette.They include: state and local parks, state greenway and Division of State Land parcels,boat ramps, marinas, wildlife areas, public roads that lead to parcels or parks, andother points of interest. Finally, there is a list of contact information for additionalresources. We hope this publication informs you and encourages you to enjoy themany facets of the Willamette.osmbThis guide is designed to make it easy to visit and safely experience the river, whetherby boat, bicycle, motor vehicle or on foot. It begins with the Willamette’s history,remembering the river’s role in early settlement through modern times. With illustrations of diverse species, the wildlife section celebrates the abundance and beauty of theriver’s plants and animals. Next, the clean river section outlines sanitation concerns,waste issues and innovative programs like Clean Marina. The boating section offerssafety tips and information about the rules and hazards of navigation. Finally, theguide highlights suggestions for planning a trip and the destinations which are bestsuited for boating, biking, hiking, fishing, or hunting.above:Canoeing on the WillametteBELOW:Wakeboarding on the WillamettePublic uses and recreational opportunitiesA great many pastimes can be enjoyed on the Willamette. These in clude boating,camp ing, picnicking, swim ming, hiking, bicycling, wildlife viewing, fishing, andhunting. There are ten state parks, three public ferries, and more than 170 Oregon StateWillamette River Green way parcels, city and county parks, boat ramps, and Division ofState Lands parcels along the river and its major tributaries. The river provides habitatfor hundreds of types of plants and many species of birds, fish, and animals.osmbA vast river systemThe Willamette River drains 12,000 square miles of land at an average rate of flow thatwould fill 175 buildings the size of Portland’s tallest skyscraper every day.w w w. b o a t o r e g o n . c o m1

HistoryO F TH E W ILL A M E TT EfHISTORYPerhaps for as long asFor Oregonians, the “Beautiful Willamette” is more than just a lovely river. It is a key part of our colorful history, a vital economic resource, and a place to recreate or relax – to enjoy the many virtuesOregon has to offer.10,000 years, the WillametteRiver basin has been theThe Willamette is one of the few major rivers in the U.S. that flows primarily north. So narrow andshallow in places that pioneers felled trees for bridges, it also widens to more than 2,000 feet acrossin Portland. Originally, the river meandered in a wide swath across the valley floor, changing channels frequently to form new islands and oxbows. Today, the Willamette is rather tame by comparison.Wing dams, revetments, dredging and flood control projects have altered the flow patterns to create asimpler, deeper channel.wellspring of life for thepeople who have livedalong its shores and riddenits waters. It has beena major source of food,water, transportation andNATIVE AMERICANScommerce in the bountifulThere is evidence of human presence in the Willamette Valley as long as 10,000 years ago, severalthousand years after the close of the Ice Age, when Asiatics from what is now Siberia crossed over anAlaskan land bridge into North America.heartland of westernOregon—Most of the Willamette Valley Native American inhabitants were Kalapuyans – a collection ofbands that shared the same dialect. They included the Calapooia, Tualatin, Santiam, Yamhill, andLuckiamute bands. Although these native bands in the valley subsisted mostly on nuts, berries androots, they also were good hunters – using the snare and trap as effectively as the bow and arrow.the Willamette Valley.A smallpox epidemic in 1782-83, followed by a malaria epidemic from 1830-33, wiped out 80 percentof the native people. By 1856, surviving members of the various bands were resettled under treaty ontothe Grand Ronde reservation near Valley Junction.EARLY SETTLEMENTosmbThe Willamette River was first noted in 1792 by English navigator Lt. William R. Broughton, a memberof Capt. George Vancouver’s expedition. Then in 1806, explorers Lewis and Clark ventured upriverfor about seven miles on behalf of the United States. The first Euro-Americans were the fur trappers,mostly working for the Hudson’s Bay Company at Ft. Vancouver. They were followed by the missionaries, who tried mightily to convert Native Americans to Christianity. Finally, there came the settlers,mostly farmers, who crossed the Oregon Trail. 53,000 of them reached the valleys of Oregon between1840 and 1860.Brush burningEarly tradersFrom the Cascades’ frozen gorges,Leaping like a child at play,Winding, widening through the valley,Bright Willamette glides away;Onward ever,Lovely river,Softly calling to the sea.Time, that scars us,Maims and mars us,Leaves no track or trench on thee.A common Native American practice was to burnpreserves in the Willamette Valley each fall. Thiscreated and main tain ed the oak and grass landsavanna that favored elk and deer as well as camas,tar weed, and acorn habitat—important foods forthe native population. The cleared land helped inthe gather ing of seeds, roots, and bulbs, as well ascreat ing exposed areas for easier hunting. The brushburning also created major areas of open prairiethat attracted Euro-American settlers because the land wasalready cleared.The first large vessel toenter the Willamette wasthe “Owyhee,” a Bostontrading ship that sailed towithin a mile of WillametteFalls in 1829—the sameyear Hudson’s Bay Com pany established anoutpost at Oregon City.—Samuel L. Simpson, 18682w w w. o re g o n s t a t e p a r k s . o rgMission MillBeautiful Willamette

The arrival of roads and gasoline-powered vehicles completed thetransition away from riverboat trade. By the early 1900s, it was possible to maneuver a vehicle the full length of the valley, and in 1919the state published its first official road map. Truck and rail transportation soon dominated shipping in the valley. The steamboat whistlewas silenced.OUR FORGOTTEN RIVEROHS #67763Oregon City became the first cityincorporated west of the Rockiesin 1844. It was established by Dr.John McLoughlin, chief factor forthe Hudson’s Bay Company, who isconsidered the “Father of Oregon.”Along with Linnton, St. Johns,Portland, Milwaukie, and LinnCity (now West Linn), Oregon Citycompeted fiercely for dominance.However, Portland became the eventual winner, and the river itself helpedsettle the issue. A major flood in 1861wiped out many promising settlements – such as Linn City andChampoeg – as well as their prospects.By the 1830s, settlement had gained a solid foothold above thefalls. Many retired French-Canadians, who had worked forHudson’s Bay Company, settled around Champoeg and St. Paul inwhat became known as French Prairie. Their wheat and produceneeded markets, and with the 1849 California gold rush came theneed for a reliable system of river commerce.STEAMBOAT ERAFrom the 1850s to the early 1900s, the steamboat was king ofthe Willamette. Oregon City was initially the farthest upstreampoint of navigation. Over time, paddlewheelers began to operateabove Willamette Falls. Occasionally, boats made it as far upriveras Eugene. Smaller steamboats even ventured up the Tualatin,Yamhill and Long Tom – small tributaries of the Willamette.In 1873, the Willamette Falls Canal & Locks Company opened a1,200-foot-long series of locks that lifted boats around the 41foot-high falls at Oregon City. The locks hastened the growthand development of Oregon’s fertile interior. At their peak in the1880s, dozens of steamboats – their whistles sure to draw a crowdto the dock – moved tons of cargo and passenger traffic along thestate’s vital artery of commerce.Perhaps the most discouraging period in the river’s history wasthe early 1900s, when the Willamette became heavily polluted andneglected. With the decline of river commerce, wharves and dockswere torn down. In some cities, roads or freeways replaced them. Inothers, new industries located along the river.These industries began dumping their wastes directly into the river.Cities and towns soon did the same. By the 1930s, the river was almostbiologically dead – and certainly unsafe for swimming. This conditionpersisted until after World War II, when federally funded sewage treatment facilities and other pollution controls began to restore the river.Helping with this turn-about was Oregon’s Willamette River Greenwayprogram. It was created by the Oregon Legislature in 1967 as a testament to the river’s historic and natural resource significance and itsrecreational potential. The greenway program is a cooperative stateand local government effort to enhance and maintain the scenic, recreational, historic, natural and agricultural qualities of the river and itsadjacent lands.By the early 1970s, the cleanup of the Willamette was a national success story. The river was declared safe for swimming in 1972, five yearsafter the greenway program was initiated. These efforts not only madeit possible for salmon and steelhead runs to rebound, they again madethe river attractive for boating, angling and other recreation. Then in1998, the Willamette was named an American Heritage River – a federal designation to assist in restoring and protecting the river.THE MODERN WILLAMETTEBy the 1880s, railroads had penetrated the Willamette Valley.River communities that were once thriving trade centers, such asLincoln and Fairfield, were now bypassed. In 1883, the transcontinental railroad arrived in Portland, solidifying the iron link thatwould siphon away much of the steamboat trade.Recreation is now the fastest-growing use of the river. Pleasure boating, skiing and angling are increasing. Portland, Lake Oswego, Salem,Albany, Corvallis, Harrisburg, Eugene, and Springfield are among thecities and towns that have greatly increased parklands and public accessalong the Willamette. The people are reclaiming their river.OHS #1639RAILS AND ROADS: THETRANSFORMATIONToday’s river bustles with activity. Commercial tugs and barges navigatethe locks to move chips, logs, sand, gravel, and other products to market.Huge freighters and oceangoing barges move tons of cargo through thePort of Portland and private docks in the Portland harbor.First Oregon-built steamer1861 FloodOn Christmas Day 1850, the 160-footsteamboat “Lot Whitcomb,” left, waslaunched at the Milwaukie basin. The firststeamboat built in Oregon, its side wheelsmeasured 18 feet in diameter. By 1878, some52 side wheel and sternwheel steam ers hadbeen built along the Willamette, most of themat Canemah just above Willamette Falls. In1854, at Canemah, the boilers on the steamer“Gazelle” exploded, killing 24 people.The devastating 1861 flood wiped out scoresof communities and landings, “sucking andsweeping everything into its path,” accord ingto one account. Historic Champoeg was amongthe casualties, inundated by more than 20 feetof water.Above: “Father of Oregon” JohnMcLoughlinLeft: Sidewheeler “Lot Whitcomb”w w w. b o a t o r e g o n . c o m3

Plant and AnimaltLI F EThe variety of wildlife makes the Willamette a favorite location for nature viewing, fishing andhunting. These recreational opportunities are enhanced by having public land and wildlife refuges near the river. Care should always be taken to minimize human impact on this habitat andensure the preservation of its natural beauty. Many migratory birds, for instance, are protectedby state and federal law. In addition, some plant and animal species are listed as threatened orendangered. In particular, nesting areas should not be disturbed.One of the remarkable qualitiesof the Willamette River is theamount of wildlife it supportseven though it travels throughOregon’s most populous region.Any destruction of protected habitat, violation of fishing or hunting regulations, or anyother threat to protected species should be reported to the Oregon Department of Fish &Wildlife (ODFW).It is possible—even likely—tocome across bald eagles, osprey,great blue heron, Canada geese,BIRDSdeer, otter, beaver, rare turtles,One of the most visible birds along the Willamette isthe great blue heron. Nesting areas, called rookeries,are found in several locations, including: Ross Island,Oaks Bottom, Goat Island, Molalla River State Park,Luckiamute Landing, and Alton Baker Park in Eugene.salamanders and numerousother animals along the river.Six state and national wildlife refuges are located alongor near the river (see map and refuge guide on page5), representing 24,000 acres of important winterhabitat for geese, ducks and swans. Below are someother species you may spot in the trees and meadowsor along the river.FISHChinookoprdThe spring chinook run is the Willamette’s dominant run of anadromous fish (species thatspawn in fresh water after growing to adult size in the ocean). This run now contributessubstantially to the Columbia River commercial and sport fisheries, and also supports a choicefishery in the Willamette and its tributaries.The largest blackWatchable wildlifecottonwood in theOregon’s Watchable Wildlife, apamphlet of the Oregon Depart mentof Fish & Wildlife, provides good infor mation about where to go to enjoyanimal life.United States survives inWillamette Mission StatePark— a 250-year-oldgiant measuring morethan 26 feet around and155 feet in height.Camas lilyBaby raccoonabove:right:4The salmon enter the river as early as February, and typically pass over Willamette Falls in Mayand June. In case you miss the spring run, a smaller fall Chinook run occurs in mid-August tolate September.CanadageeseThe Willametteruns down thecenter of thePacific migratory flyway. Canada geesebegin showing up along the Willamettein mid-October, in cluding the rare duskyCanada goose for whose protectionthe national wildlife refuges in theWillamette Valley were originally created.w w w. o re g o n s t a t e p a r k s . o rgWhite sturgeonThe largest fish in the Willamette is thewhite sturgeon, grow ing to more than 8feet in length. These giants are fishedmostly in the lower river. Popular spotsare below the falls in Oregon City,and near Sellwood Riverfront Park,the Steel Bridge, and the Rivergateindustrial district in Portland. Upriver,the mouth of the Long Tom is one ofthe better-known holes.

Wildlife RefugeSSteelheadA LON G TH E W ILL A M E TT ESteelhead enter the river in summerand winter. The summer-run steelhead pass the falls from early Marchuntil October, while the winter-runsteelhead pass the falls in earlyNovember to mid-May.OSMBSauvie Island Wildlife ManagementAreaOther Game FishBass and panfish are found in many areas of the Willamette River,especially where the water slows or intersects with sloughs and inlets.Walleye are occasionally found downstream of Willamette Falls.SAUvie iSlANDTake Highway 30 to Sauvie Island bridge,proceed toward north end of Sauvie Island.Refuge is off Reeder Road.12,000 acres of state-owned habitat forwintering waterfowl, swans, herons, sand hillcranes, bald eagles, and 250 other species.Access restricted during the hunt ing seasonand spring. Fishing latin River National WildlifeRefugeANIMALSLocated along the Tualatin River east ofSherwood, about 12 miles upriver from its con flu ence with the Willamette.Newest national wildlife refuge in Oregon.Common mammals are black-taileddeer, raccoon and otter. Oregon’sstate animal is the beaver, chosen forits admirable qualities of intelligence,industry and YBaskett Slough National Wildlife RefugeThe river corridor features a varietyof reptiles and amphibians, includinggarter snakes, long-toed salamanders, rough-skinned newts and treefrogs. The rare western pond turtle and painted turtle only remain in afew sloughs and oxbow lakes.From Rickreall (6 miles west of Salem), go west on Highway 22. Refuge isabout 2 miles on the right.The 2,492-acre area features migratory waterfowl. By mid-November,large number of Canada geese, tundra swans, ducks and white swansare present. The area now encompasses over 1,000 acres and may reachover 3,000 when acq

In 1873, the Willamette Falls Canal & Locks Company opened a 1,200-foot-long series of locks that lifted boats around the 41-foot-high falls at Oregon City. The locks hastened the growth and development of Oregon’s fertile interior. At their peak in the 1880s, dozens of steamboats – their whistles sure to draw a crowd

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