Dog Behaviour And Training Handbook - Rspcavic
Dog Behaviourand TrainingHandbook
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookTable of ContentsUnderstanding Dog Behaviour .3What is a Behaviour? .3Dog Body Language .3Signs of Fear .5Signs of Aggression .6Signs of Stress and Anxiety .6Signs of Confidence and Sociability .6Dog Training Basics . . . .7House Training .7Teaching Your Dog to Recall .9Exercise and Enrichment 11Crate Training 13Teaching Your Dog to Stay on its Mat 14Teaching Your Dog that its ok to be Alone 15Specific Issues . .17Boisterousness .17Play Biting & Mouthing in Puppies .18Resource Guarding .19Toileting Issues .21Escaping .23Muzzle Training . 25Timidity and Fear Aggression .25Fear .26Creating a Systematic Desensitization Program 27Systematic Desensitization for Noise Phobias . 29Fireworks and Thunderstorms. 29Helping Your Dog Cope with Visits to the Vet .32Getting Your Dog Used to the Car 33Introducing Your Dog to Your New Baby . . 34Appendix .38Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 2 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookUnderstanding Dog BehaviourWhat is a Behaviour?Behaviour is a way in which an animal acts. Behaviour can be influenced by: GeneticsEarly learning experiencesEnvironmentBehaviour is also based on consequence. A behaviour that has a positive response will result in the animal beingmore likely to repeat the behaviour. 'Positive response' can be a reward in the form of food or praise, but itmay also be something you don't expect, like any kind of attention from you, including eye contact or verbalreprimand.Dog Body LanguageAll animals demonstrate body language. It is important that foster carers interpret an animal’s body languageand adjust the way they approach an animal to accommodate its emotional state. It is important to understanddog body language and what they are trying to tell you. Foster carers should consider the following dog bodylanguage: ctive date: 22/10/2018Page 3 of 47
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Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookSigns of Fear Distance seeking behaviour (requesting more space) Tongue flicking/licking Lip lift Turning away/avoiding eye contact Rolling on back (appeasement) Urinating Crouching down Tail tucked under Paw lifted “Whale eye” (whites of eyes exposed) Hiding Ears down TremblingNote: fear can also lead to aggression in a dog if pushed beyond its comfort levels.Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 5 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookSigns of Aggression Stiff body postureDirect visual contactForward or defensive postureErect tail (may wag very slowly)Retraction of lips/snarlingHair erect on back of neckBarking or lungingNote: aggression can occur if earlier fear signs have not been noticed and acted upon. A dog showing signs ofaggression is warning you away from them.Signs of Stress and Anxiety Excessive salivationExcessive sheddingTremblingQuiet growlingDilated pupilsYawningPacingDestructive behaviourHidingLip lickingShowing whites of the eye (“whale eye”)Backing awayNot eating treats or food when previously wouldFast, shallow breathingVocalisations (eg. whining)Obsessive behaviour (eg. tail spinning, tail biting)Dogs exhibiting these signs of stress or anxiety will need time and extra work to help them to come out of theirshell. Foster carers should proceed extra slowly when working with dogs showing these signs.Signs of Confidence and Sociability Relaxed body postureSoft eyesEars forward and relaxedTail wagging at a medium heightRaised or erect headApproaching for more “information”Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 6 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookDog Training BasicsHouse TrainingThis information focuses on puppies, but the basic concepts are the same for adult dogs that are new to yourhome or older pets that need to be re-trained. There are, however, two big differences between puppies anddogs. Firstly, adult dogs can hold their bladders for longer periods. Secondly, adult dogs may have prior learningthat needs to be re-enforced.If you follow a few simple steps and are diligent, house-training your puppy or adult dog can be an easy andstress-free process. Ideally, you should set up the following for your puppy: Puppy-proof outdoor yards that have room for toileting, play and sleep. You should be able to leave yourpuppy there unsupervised for short periods.A leash to be used when the puppy is inside with you or being toileted outside.A puppy-proof indoor pen where you can leave your puppy for short periods when you are unable tosupervise.A crate if necessary.All puppies have an instinct to keep their eating and sleeping places clean from toileting. Therefore, if you confineyour puppy to a crate, you will be utilising this instinct to the best of your ability. Some puppies do not like to beconfined initially and will need to be taught to be comfortable in a crate (see: Crate Training), so a puppy-proofpen with a small area of instant turf or fake grass is a suitable alternative. When toilet training puppies, always beready to take your puppy out to toilet in the right spot.Puppies have very small bladders, so you will need to give them the opportunity to go to the toilet every 2-3hours (for very young puppies), even at night. Puppies are also more likely to toilet after a walk, feed or long playsession, so you will need to be extra vigilant during these times and be ready to take your puppy out to the toiletat a moment’s notice.Set that clock!When your puppy is inside with you, set a timer or clock for every hour. When the timer goes off, put your puppyon a leash and take it out to the designated toilet area. Don’t play with your puppy otherwise it might get toilettime confused with play time. Just wander around and wait for it to go to the toilet. If this doesn’t occur withinfive minutes, head back to your daily chores, but keep an eye out for any ‘toilet like’ behaviour (sniffing theground, circling, etc). If you notice this, take your pup out to the designated toilet area and wait a couple ofminutes for it to go to the toilet. Repeat this process until your puppy does go to the toilet. When it does, besure to give it heavy praise, a treat and perhaps some play time with you. Put the puppy back in its confined playarea and set the timer again.When you can’t be thereAs much as we would like to, we can’t spend every minute of the day watching our puppies and making sure theydon’t get into mischief. Setting up an indoor play area for your puppy means that you can go about your dailybusiness without having to worry about the puppy getting under your feet or into something it shouldn’t. Yourpuppy’s indoor area will also limit the places where it can have an ‘accident’. As your dog grows older andbecomes more reliable, it can have more access to the house. Baby gates also work well as barriers.Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 7 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookJust remember, house rules still apply, so take your puppy out on an hourly basis for an opportunity to relieveitself. An outdoor area is good for when the puppy needs to be alone for longer periods.Add a cue!If you take the time to toilet train your dog as a puppy, it can make things very easy and convenient throughoutits entire life. Adding a cue to the behaviour of your puppy relieving itself is a handy tool. Think of those coldwinter nights and trying to get your puppy to go to the toilet before bed. Wouldn’t it be nice if they would just‘go’ on command rather than waiting around for ages? What about those quick toilet stops on a long car ride?While your puppy is relieving itself, repeat a command of your choice that will communicate to your dog that it istoilet time (eg. “toilet”, “quick”). Give your dog lots of praise when it relieves itself. Initially, you should say thecommand once your puppy has started going to the toilet. As the puppy gets better, you should say it just beforeit relieves itself. Later on you should only need to say it when you let the puppy outside. Always remember toreward your puppy with treats and praise for doing the right thing.Knowing when to head outsideIt’s your responsibility to take your puppy outside when it might need to relieve itself. The quicker you becomean expert at reading your puppy’s signals, the faster it will become house-trained. It is likely that your puppy willneed to relieve itself if it: Just woke upWas just let out of its “puppy-area”Just ate/drankHad been chewing on something for a while and got up to find something else to doWas excited, agitated or more active than usualWandered away from an area it was playing in and started sniffing the floorWas sniffing the floorWas pacing or whiningAnd last but not least, the scent of urine is like a neon sign that says “toilet” to dogs. That’s why it’s so importantto clean up accidents correctly. Use a commercial, enzymatic cleaner designed for neutralising odours.When accidents happenNo matter how diligent you are, the occasional mistake is inevitable. NEVER punish your dog for a mess it made,whether you saw it happen or not. Do not rub its nose in the mess, hit it, yell at it or punish it. The dog will notunderstand that you are upset at it for something it did in the past.If you do catch your dog in the act, pick it up and take it outside immediately. Do this cheerfully and give the doga treat and plenty of praise if it goes to the toilet outside.Being harsh or punishing your dog for an accident will only teach it that it shouldn’t relieve itself around you. Thisresults in the very common problem of dogs sneaking off to relieve themselves away from their owners ratherthan going outside in their presence.Further difficultiesHealthEffective date: 22/10/2018Page 8 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookOften, when a house-trained dog suddenly starts having accidents in the house, an underlying health issue isusually the cause. If this is occurring, make sure that your dog has a full physical exam by a vet to rule out anypossible health issues before exploring the potential behavioural causes.Time spent cooped upSometimes our pets can’t ‘hold on’ for as long as we would like them to, especially if they are a younger or olderdog. Make sure your dog has access to a toilet area or has regular toilet breaks if it is in a confined space.Changes to a routine or lifestyleDogs are creatures of habit and therefore, subtle changes to your dog’s schedule can affect its toileting routine.Diet changes can cause problems with toileting due to an upset tummy during the change. You should alwaysmake sure diet changes are done gradually in order to minimise tummy upsets. Dogs can also be sensitive tospecific ingredients, so make sure nothing new has been added to the dog’s diet.Environmental changes, such as a new house or even a change in the toileting surface (eg. from grass to concrete)can affect your dog’s toileting routine. Simple things such as always being toileted off a lead and always doing itin the yard can also affect your dog’s toileting habits. Putting toilet behaviour on cue can be a great help indealing with these minor issues.Household stress can affect your dog’s house-training. Some things that may temporarily interrupt housetraininginclude moving house, marriage, the birth of a baby, divorce, illness or the death of a loved one.Summary Your puppy is reliably house-trained when it has not gone to the toilet for four consecutive weeks. Untilthen it must always be supervised out in the yard or indoors in its puppy-proof area.Teach your dog to be happy and entertained in a small area when you can’t supervise it.Go outside with your dog and give it treats immediately after it goes to the toilet.Initiate toilet time by taking your dog outside - don’t just wait for it to ask.Learn to read your dog’s behavioural patterns. Pay attention to any signals that might mean it needs torelieve itself.Clean up accidents with enzymatic neutralisers, not household detergents.Gradually expand your dog’s freedom in the house. Spend time in each room and feed, train and play init.Feed on a regular schedule.Be patient. Remember that you’re both doing your best. Forgive mistakes and work towards preventingthem in the future.If you are having ongoing issues with toileting, please refer to 'Toileting Issues' (below).Teaching Your Dog to RecallAs much as we would like to believe it, teaching your dog to come or ‘recall’ is not a pre-programmed response.While it is an instinct for a puppy not to venture too far from the pack, as the puppy gets older and moreconfident, the previously reliable recall quickly fades too.Despite all of that, recall is one of the most important commands to teach a dog. It's not all about coming backwhen the dog's off the lead – it is more about getting your dog to focus on you and respond to you. This alsomakes for a positive relationship between you and your canine friend!Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 9 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookIt’s Disneyland out there!Getting a dog to focus on you on a walk is a difficult task. Imagine taking a child to Disneyland and then whileattracted by all the interesting sights and sounds, you try to teach the child something new. You would beunlikely to be successful because of the many distractions that Disneyland would offer. It is much the same whenyou take your dog to the park where there are all kinds of interesting smells, sounds and sights that catch thedog’s attention. In such a situation, trying to get him to concentrate on what you are trying to teach him, is oftenextremely difficult. For this reason, to get the best success with a recall, start in the home or garden, where thereare minimal distractions. You want to build up the habit of focusing on you – so it becomes second-nature.Make it worthwhile!First, work out your dog's motivations. Some dogs are very food-driven and will work for even dry kibble. Somedogs have a favourite toy. Some dogs may need higher stakes, especially when there are more interesting thingsaround, for example little bits of sausage, chicken or cheese.Set your dog (and you!) up for success. There is no point working on focus or recall with treats when your dog hasjust eaten! If your dog has a favourite toy item, try to make this 'special' for training sessions or walks, so he willbe more likely to work for it.Come means only good things happenTo make a recall fast and reliable, your dog should only associate being called to you with good things. Thismeans that you should never punish a dog when it comes back to you. Although it may be frustrating, a recallshould always be a positive thing and your dog should always be rewarded for choosing to come back orfocussing on you, even if it does take a while. Try to make coming back to you 'normal' - just call your dog's name(or use a certain word) throughout the day or randomly on walks. This way, the recall is of little consequence –your dog will enjoy the food and then return to whatever he is doing. If you need to get your dog to dosomething it doesn’t like, for example clipping nails or bath and grooming, then it would be better to simply seteverything up and then retrieve the dog, rather than calling them to you.‘Come’ or the dog's name should also be spoken in a happy and cheerful voice. Using a higher pitched voice ismore attractive to dogs and therefore more likely to respond to it.When establishing a recall on walks, start by using a long-line (a lunge-line or an extra long lead will do) so thatthe leash is slack and the dog is effectively 'off-leash' but you still have control. Practise the recall in varioussituations and only progress to off-leash once you are 100% confident of your dog's recall ability.Fun ways to achieve a reliable recall!While this may seem like a daunting task – teaching your dog to come when he is called can be fun for everyonein the family – most importantly the dog. Below are some suggestions which will help you achieve the best recallresults.The name of the gamePlay a game with your dog so he makes an association with his name and food. Start around the house or in thebackyard. As soon as your dog looks at you when he hears his name, reward him with a treat. Very soon you’llhave a dog that when he hears his name his head will whip around to see where that treat is hiding! This can alsobe played on walks too when your dog is clipped to a leash.Catch me if you canEffective date: 22/10/2018Page 10 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookThis is a great one-person game to play. Drop a piece of food on the ground, make sure your dog sees it and iseating it, then run as fast as you can in the opposite direction. When your dog catches up to you, drop anothertreat on the ground and sprint off in the other direction. Soon, your dog won’t want you out of his sight.Piggy in the middleIf you have several people in your family, playing this game with your dog can be loads of fun. Have everyoneloaded with your dog’s favourite treats and spread out. Then one by one, each person should call the dog andwhen he reaches a person he is rewarded with a treat. This game is a great way to mentally and physicallystimulate your dog and is most effective if the people calling the dog avoid using distractions such as makingnoises and squeaking toys.Hide and seekIf you have two people, have someone hold your dog while you find a place to hide (remember to keep it easy forbeginners). When you are ready, call your dog and wait until he finds you. When he does, make sure that youpraise him and reward with a favourite treat.What to do if it isn’t going to plan when off-leashDespite all our efforts, your dog isn’t always going to be a perfect angel and sometimes things will go wrong. Youmay find that your dog has found an irresistible good smell that he just can't leave. Remember, don’t waste yourbreath calling his name, instead go towards him and clip him on his leash for the rest of the walk - practicing yourname game the rest of the way home. Alternatively, run in the opposite direction, if it is safe to do so. The dogshould always come to you – so moving away will encourage the dog to recall. Remember, even if it takes time,always reward your dog for coming back. There is also little point to calling a dog that is fully engrossed insomething else.It is important to remember that it is a privilege to have our dogs off leash. For this reason, and out of courtesy toothers, please only let your dog off leash if you have complete control, even he is friendly with all dogs andpeople. Never assume other people or their dogs will be happy with your dog coming up to them. Only let yourdog off-leash in an approved area where it is safe to do so.Exercise and EnrichmentSome dogs, especially working breeds, have a lot of energy and drive, but all dogs can become bored. Every dogneeds some level of exercise, but dogs are intelligent creatures who like to problem-solve. At its worst, boredomcan lead to many behavioural problems such as excessive barking, digging and destructive behaviour. Boredomcan also contribute to more serious problems, such as separation anxiety and obsessive, compulsive behaviours.It is important to provide BOTH physical and mental stimulation, especially for breeds which were bred to have a'job'.Physical ExerciseExercise should be at an appropriate level for the dog. Some dogs may be content with one daily walk, whereasothers need multiple walks – especially breeds like Huskies and Collies.Walks are important, but it is important that they are 'constructive' too. Being dragged around on a short leashfor 40 minutes will likely just be frustrating and not as fulfilling as a 20 minute 'sniffari' on a loose leash. Walksshould be an opportunity for your dog to explore the world and build a good relationship.Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 11 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookTry to keep walks to quieter areas, especially in the early days. Try to keep the leash loose and stay as relaxed aspossible – don't rush the dog around and allow him to sniff at his pace as much as possible. This keeps walksrelaxed and positive.Take food on walks, and try to walk the dog when he is hungry (i.e. not straight after a meal). As you walk along,periodically call his name and reward him with a treat. This encourages your dog to focus on you. Some dogs arevery food-motivated and will work for their normal kibble, whereas for some dogs you will need to 'up the ante'and use higher value food, like sausage, chicken, cheese or ham.Playing games in the garden is a good way for your dog to exercise, and again builds your bond. Constructive toyplay like fetch and 'find it' are great. Always swap one toy for another and encourage your dog to drop a toybefore throwing another; avoid taking anything out of your dog's mouth, as this is confrontational and mayencourage your dog to guard what is his.Mental EnrichmentEnrichment can really mean anything – it's whatever is stimulating for your dog and gets his brain working! Sniffing:o Go for a long, meandering walk dictated by your dog's nose. The time is his – don't rush him.Sniffing really calms dogs down and releases happy hormones.o Try different scents using essential oils or even natural scents, like herbs.Training sessionso Keep sessions short but positive – use whatever most motivates your dog (food, a favourite toy,praise). If your dog loses interest, then the session is too long or difficult.o Teach him something new! The obvious tricks are 'sit', 'drop', 'shake', 'high five', 'stay', but thereare lots of others! You can teach a dog to touch your hand or an object (targeting), paw at anobject or stand on a mark (freeshaping), speak, learn the names of objects, crawl on his belly orbow.the possibilities are endless!Food enrichmentUsing food is a great tool for dogs who like their food. You can make enrichment items a 'treat' or, for high-drivedogs, use ALL of their daily food in the form of enrichment items. This is also great for dogs who like to inhaletheir food.Remember to start easy and increase the difficulty. Dogs may need help working out how items work and may getfrustrated if they don't understand – this will make them less likely to engage in the future.ooooooooScatter food on the floor (or in the garden) so the dog has to snuffle around.Hide food: under blankets, around the garden, etc.Put food in boxes or scrunch it into newspaper.Puzzle toys: there are loads on the market, or you can make your own using boxes or plasticbottles.Stuff food into a Kong, or smear a Kong with peanut butter, cream cheese or marmite (for thepros you can even freeze it).Long lasting chews like rawhides and antlers.Fill a shell pool with water (for dogs who like to swim) or sand (for dogs that like to dig). You canbury items in the sand – like food or favourite toys.Rotate toys and items so that the dog doesn't get bored.Effective date: 22/10/2018Page 12 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training HandbookPeople are always coming up with new and interesting enrichment ideas. Search online for inspiration, or getcreative!Crate TrainingCrate training is a new concept for many but is a very effective training tool for adult dogs and puppies. It maytake a little time and effort to train your dog to use the crate, but it can prove useful in a variety of situations. Forinstance, if you have a new dog or puppy, a crate is a fantastic way of teaching it the boundaries of the house andkeeping it safe. When you’re travelling in the car, visiting the vet or any other time you may need to confine yourdog (eg. after surgery or if it has been injured), it’s much easier and safer if your dog has been trained to enjoybeing in a crate.How big should my crate be and what type should I get?A crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lie down. Crates can be plastic (used onairlines), wire (collapsible, metal pens) or collapsible fabric crates. It is not recommended to leave your dog forlong periods in a fabric crate unless you are certain that your dog will be happy and calm inside it and will notscratch its way out.I don’t like the look of a crate! What will my dog think?A crate is intended to be a ‘safe haven’ or ‘security blanket’ for the dog. By nature, dogs like small, enclosedspaces, especially when they are feeling a little bit unsure. By providing your dog with an area where it can‘escape’ and know it won’t be bothered, it can readily seek out this area when it needs a bit of a break or timeout.Training your dog to use the crateThe duration of crate training varies from dog to dog. It will depend on the dog’s age, temperament and pastexperiences. It is very important to remember that your crate should be associated only with something pleasantand training should always move at your dog’s pace. Always vary the length of time that your dog will spend in itscrate, especially during training. This will prevent your dog from ‘expecting’ to be let out at a particular time andreduce any issues such as whining or scratching at the crate door.Introduce your dog to the cratePlace the crate in a central part of the household (living room, TV room, etc). Make the crate inviting andcomfortable for your dog. Usually, dogs will go over and investigate. When your dog goes near the crate, rewardit by throwing a food treat into the crate or near its entrance. Repeat this every time the dog goes near the crate.If the dog settles down inside the crate, reward this behaviour either with your voice or with food rewards. Youwant the dog to view the crate as a wonderful place to be, full of goodies and fun. You don’t want to shut thedoor of the crate just yet. Your dog needs to understand that it can come and go as it pleases, thereforereinforcing it as a good place to be.Feed your dog in the crateBegin giving your dog its regular meals in the crate. Place the bowl inside the crate and encourage the dog toenter. If your dog readily enters the crate at dinner time, start asking it to go in and then place the food inside thecrate.As the dog becomes more comfortable eating in the crate, you can introduce closing the door. Start by closing thedoor as your dog eats its meal. Make sure you open it before the dog finishes its meal. As you progress, graduallyleave the door closed for a few minutes at a time. Soon you should have a dog that will happily stay in its crateEffective date: 22/10/2018Page 13 of 47
Dog Behaviour & Training Handbookafter a meal. If the dog whines; ignore the behaviour and try to reward it or let it out as soon as it is quiet. Nexttime, make sure the dog is in the crate for a slightly longer period of time.Increase the length of time spent in the crateOnce your dog is happy in the crate for about 10 – 15 minutes after finishing its meal, you can start to confine itto the crate for longer periods. Get the dog into the crate using a command such as “crate” or “bed”. As the dogenters the crate, give it a treat, praise it and close the door. Quietly sit nearby for a few minutes and reward thedog for remaining calm and happy. You might even want to open the door and give the dog a rewarding treatdispensing toy such as a Kong. Continue with your daily activities and return regularly to reward the dog, eitherverbally or with a food treat, for its calm behaviour inside the crate.Start with short sessions and gradually increase the length of time that you leave the dog inside the crate. Thismay take several days or weeks.Crating your dog at nightOnce your dog is happy spending time in its crate with you around, you can introduce it to crating at night. Makesure your dog has toys or treat-dispensing toys with it to initially settle it into the routine. Keep the crate in afamiliar, central area so the dog feels comfortable and settled. With young puppies or older dogs you may need totake them out for toilet breaks during the night. By making the crate a ‘fun’ and enjoyable place to be, night timecrating should be an easy transition.Potential problemsToo much time in the crateBe careful that your puppy doesn’t spend too much time in its crate. While it is a fantastic tool for toilet trainingpuppies and preventing destruction, a dog of any age
A crate if necessary. All puppies have an instinct to keep their eating and sleeping places clean from toileting. Therefore, if you confine . Some puppies do not like to be confined initially and will need to be taught to be comfortable in a crate (see: Crate Training), so a puppy-proof pen with a small area of instant turf or fake grass is a .
2. The handler does not present the area to the dog resulting in the aid not being located by the dog. Security Dog Misses: The security dog does not show any change of behaviour or interest to the source aid odour when the area is presented by the handler. Security Dog Walk: The security dog shows a change of behaviour, works the source .
The Bird Dog stories describe the adventures of a boy and a dog. The dog learns to hunt birds so the boy calls the dog a bird dog. A girl, a boy riding a bike, and some other animals, joins the boy and dog. They go hunting for all kinds of creatures, including a cat and skunk. The bird dog is a good hunter except for hunting boys and girls.
If the dog is barking at people it can see passing by, try blocking the dog's view. An anti-barking collar may be useful for some, but not all. Teach the dog to stop barking on command. When the dog is barking give a firm command such as 'cease' and call the dog to you. Praise the dog when it stops barking. If the dog will not .
the dog barking, try some of these simple tips - every dog is different! Do not reward the dog when it barks. Don't let the dog inside or give it attention - instead, reward the dog when it is quiet. Teach the dog to stop barking on command - give the dog a command when it is barking and reward the dog
developing each dog. Extra time spent in training likely means that GDB training staff like the dog very much and they are doing their best to give the dog all the love, care, and training that it needs to become a guide dog prospect. In some ways, today's guide dog needs to be "Super Dog." The world has become an increasingly more
to dog training WELCOME Congratulations on taking a lifelong adventure with your dog! Whether you’re new to having a dog, about to get a dog, or want to refresh your memory, this eBook is a quick guide to having a safe and caring home with your
the DOG CANCER diet 1 Did you know you can help your dog fight cancer at his next meal? The right foods - many of which you probably have in your house right now - can be powerful weapons for a dog with cancer. Putting your dog on a Dog Cancer Diet, as outlined in this report, accomplishes two things. The Dog Cancer Diet: 1. Fights Cancer.
Canine Wisdom for the Barking Dog-The Dog Done Gone Deaf is a spin-off, a twist, an amalgamation that takes its cue from the eponymous album The Dog Done Gone Deaf by Halim El-Dabh, which he performed with The Barking Dog Sextet for the Suoni Per Il Popolo Festival in Montreal, Quebec in 2007. The Dog Done Gone Deaf seems to me an appropriate
