Build A Pie Safe - Fine Woodworking
WTAUNTON’SBuild a Pie SafeAproject plan fora 19thcenturycook’s companionFor more FREEproject plans fromFine Woodworking CLICK HERE NOW!Build an Oak Bookcaseh chenbcenrkobrkurdyoW, Stleturdy WSimpS,leYSimpFrom Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2Fromson 2B y A s2C h r i s t i A n Aing, ASeaorkasSe onin Woodwrtedou canthank Mike Pekovich,rking,ting StaFine Woodworking’sodwoart direcAWot i A nFrom Get ted intor, fordesigning thishsimpler i sbuts AtookC a straightforbookcase.HeB y An Adadog Star stylishi Awithward form--an oak bookcasei s tGettinh rand rabbet Cjoints--andadded nice proALies LisTA s and elegant curves.portionsB yanD suppwareWe agreed that screws would reinforceLisTer, harDedspLieLuMbthe joints nicely, andthat gave us a de-supkiln-dring 2x4s,ensivebe8-ft.-loedre anDinexpsign option on the sides.Chooseoak4Dwajaw caneasy and4x4s, kiln-dribengriedwide. 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At the bottom are twoa Frencharchedstretcherlong curves formed with a flexible woodbatten, one extending end to end on the27 8 in.and the other a shortlower stretcher,graceful arch at the bottomin. the sides,10 of13 16 in.ending at a straight step at each end to8 in.27 legs.suggest24 in.SidestretchersVideOs13 16 in.17 in.in.13 16in.31/2 in.17ViDeOs31/2 in.ViDeOsusOakOakOakin.3 4Oak veneer5 8 in.1/4 in. x 27 1/2 in. x 45 3/4 in.5 in.plywood33 8 333 4 in.3 4 in.1#12 x 2 in. flat head screws 1Steel24#6 x 3/4 in. flat head screwsSteel93 16 in.93 16 in.Go to Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a multi-part video detailing how to build this bookcase from start to finish.41 in.9 in.95 8 in.9 in.95 8 in.Finewoonline atVisit usVisitscrews FOrbackmateriaL4 in.13 4 in.3/4 in. x 3 in. x 26 1/2 1 in.Oak11ersbackLong stretchstretchersscrewsLong FOr30sheLVes10 in.Sideers16 in.13 stretch--Asa Christiana, editor, Fine Woodworking35 16 in.odworkoodwat Finewonlineorkining.comg.com/start/start41 in.48 in.to finish.startto finish48 in.startnch fromworkbeh frombuild this bencg how to this workdetailint videoto builda two-parling howto watchdetaiart videoa two-pto watchSee how our magazinemakes you a betterwoodworker SUBSCRIBE TODAY!
Build a Pie SafeA 19th-centurycook’s companionadapts well tomodern storageB YM I K ED U N B A RWhen my wife and I decidedrecently that we needed moreroom for her holiday dishesand large servingware, we agreed that anattractive way to store them would be ina hardwood pie safe. Although the firstpie safes were built to protect cheese andbaked goods in 19th-century kitchens,their simple design adapts comfortablyto today’s more modern and more formalsurroundings.Being pieces of utilitarian kitchen furniture, most of the early pie safes werequite simple, sometimes downright crude.The average piece was made at homefrom local softwoods such as pine oryellow poplar and finished with paint.Still, some very sophisticated and eleganthardwood pie safes were made in cabinetshops for those families who could affordthe very best.This pie safe was inspired by the moreformal examples. I kept the simple design of the originals but made it more of ashowpiece by using figured hardwood—yellow birch with a flame figure.The carcase is a large frameMost of the joinery for the case can betackled on the mortiser and tablesaw. Thechallenge is in staying organized while cutting the 48 mortise-and-tenon joints thepiece requires. Make the mortises in the32FINE WOODWORKINGPhotos: Steve Scott
A S T U DY I N F R A M E A N D PA N E LMortiseThis 19th-century pie safe is made of flame birch, with tin door panels. Eastern whitepine is used as a secondary wood for the back panels, shelves, and shelf cleats.Cleat, glued to caseand screwed to topPOSTDETAILPanelPanel grooveis aligned withmortise.Top, in. thick34Front top rail, in. thick by51 4 in. wideFiller strip,1 8 in. thick34Rails areinset 1 8 in.Cornice,see p. 35Rear and side toprail, 3 4 in. thick by71 4 in. widePanels, 1 2 in.thick, with1 2-in. rabbeton all edgesCleats, 3 4 in. sq.,support shelves,including bottom.All rails unlessnoted, 3 4 in.thick by 2 in.wideRail, 3 4 in. thickby 4 in. wideDrawer front,7 8 in. thickDOOR DETAILDrawer sides andback, 3 4 in. thickOutsidemolding israbbeted.Drawer guide,7 8 in. thickInside moldingsecures the tinpanel.Door railsand stiles,3 4 in. thickby 2 in.wideRabbet,1 8 in. deep by1 4 in. tallTin panelOffset tenons, 1 4 in. thick by 1 in.wide; 1 in. long on front side ofrail, 1 2 in. long on back sideDrawings: Bob La PointeCROSS SECTIONAll case tenons, 1 4 in.thick by 1 in. longPosts, 13 4 in. sq.by 59 1 4 in. long,taper on two insidefaces to 1 1 2 in. sq.at the floor.Moldings, 3 8 in.sq., chamferedJANUARY/FEBRUARY 200633
S TA R T W I T H T H E E N D SWHEN GLUING THE CASESlide the rabbeted panels into position andclamp everything. Then join the case together.Glue up the stretchers and back, and put thewhole assembly under clamps.71 4 in.9 in.2 in.35 in.11 in.9 in.2 in.9 in.121 2 in.4 in.2 in.81 2 in.61 2 in.61 2 in.2 in.2 in.93 4 in.81 2 in.3434 in.13 in.371 2 in.171 2 in.FINE WOODWORKING81 2 in.posts first. Because all the posts are identical, confusing them is a real possibility.Mark each with its location in the frame.Then identify the surfaces to be mortised.Finally, lay out the mortises. Check yourwork one last time before cutting. Withthe mortises cut, it is possible to cut and fittest tenons on a piece of scrapwood untilyou reach a setup that gives you a smooth,easy fit. Cut the rail tenons and dry-fit theframe under clamps so that you can checkit for square.For the side panels, I chose a birch boardwith a pattern of circles that resembled astring of pearls running up the center. It isa pattern I do not recall seeing before. Layout the order of your panels in the boardyou choose and cut them to dimension.Identify the front surfaces and cut the rabbets. At the same time, cut the rabbets onthe large pine panels for the back.Groove the posts and rails to receive therabbeted panels. In the posts, the groove’slower end is blind (stopped) to preventit from showing in the legs. I did this bystarting the router cut in the lowest mortise. Some pie safes had punched-tin panels on the sides as well as the doors. Ifyou choose this approach, you will have
Crown molding that you canmake on the tablesawA series of angled cuts yields a rabbeted cornice that acceptsthe top of the case and creates a flat surface for displayingitems on top.Case top in.12 7 16 in.12in. in.14Tack the cornice into place. The molding’s angular profile accentuates thesquare corners of the piece.Fillet, in. by 1 8 in.18FULL-SIZETEMPLATEPostC O R N I C E CUTTIN G SEQUEN CEThis simple, angular profile can bemilled from a piece of stock 3 4 in.thick by 2 in. wide. It requires a seriesof eight cuts, all but one made withthe blade tilted to 45 . Cutting inthe sequence shown ensures a flatreference face for each cut.156to rabbet the rails and glue vertical supportstrips to the posts.Take apart the carcase. This is a goodtime to taper the posts. Dry-fit again withthe side and back panels in place, and pullthe frame together with clamps. When satisfied, disassemble the parts and removeany machine marks and other blemishesthat would show through the finish. Ihandplaned each surface, but sanding orscraping also would work. When the glueis dry, secure the shelf cleats and fit the27shelves, including the bottom panel. Youcan secure the shelves in place, but I letgravity do the job.A cornice that doesn’t hide the topThe cornice figures prominently in this piesafe. My wife wanted to use the top of thepie safe as a display shelf. For that reason,I made the cornice sit flush with the top,cutting a rabbet into the back of the cornice to accept the edge of the top. Thisway, objects placed there will be entirely348visible. The pie safe is square and flat. Iwanted to use a cornice that continuedthat theme but added some visual interest. What I like about this one is that itis made completely on the tablesaw (seedrawings, above).Fit the cornice and top to the frame.When satisfied with the fit, screw the topin place through the interior cleats andnail the cornice in place with finish brads.Because the rails are recessed 1 8 in. fromthe front of the posts, I used a 1 8-in.-thickJANUARY/FEBRUARY 200635
RABBET THE DOORFRAMES BEFOREA S S E M B LYspacer behind the cornice that matchedthe width of the cornice and the lengthof the rails.Assemble and fit the doorsTo make the doors, begin by cutting a rabbet on the rear inside edges of the stilesand rails. Next, mortise the stiles. The mortises are cut into the rabbets’ shoulders andare of necessity only 1 4 in. wide.The tenons on the rail ends have offsetshoulders to accommodate the rabbets inthe stiles. Cut the tenon shoulders in allthe rails first, taking care to ensure thateach tenon’s short side is cut on the backside of the rail. Use a tenoning jig to cutthe cheeks, raising the blade to cut thelonger surfaces. Dry-fit the doors underclamps and check for square. Scrape, sand,or plane all visible surfaces, and glue andassemble the two doors.Fit the doors to the carcase and mountthem on their hinges. With the hinges fitted,mount the tin panels. As an accent to thelight-colored birch, I chose to hold the tinsin place with walnut molding inside andout that also acts as a shadow frame. Theoutside molding is rabbeted in the backRabbet all the rails and stiles at once. Thismeans fewer setups on the tablesaw.Cut mortises before tenons. The tenonsthen can be sized for a precise fit.Rail tenons look lopsided. The joinery needsshoulders of different heights to seat properlyin the rabbeted stiles.36FINE WOODWORKINGAssemble the door frames. Dry-fit the doors, check them for square, and prepare surfaces forfinishing before breaking out the glue bottle.
Punching tinTack the tin onto an MDF backer boardand tape the pattern in place. Punch the tinthrough the pattern using consistent force toensure an even result.so that it fits over the edges of the doorsand overlaps the stiles and rails. I glue theoutside molding into place, but secure theinside molding with brads.Apply the finishing touchesThe drawer construction contains no surprises. I hand-dovetailed mine. You canuse any drawer-construction techniquesthat you prefer.The drawer will be used to store linens,which are lightweight. For that reason,I felt perfectly comfortable with the traditional solution of gluing in hardwoodThe punched-tin door panels for this pie safe were easyand fun to make, requiring a few simple tools and someinexpensive materials.Punches can be found online for as little as 4.95 (www.piercedtin.com). A basic pointed tooland a chisel-type punch should be enough to make anattractive design. A 10-in. by 14-in. sheet of tin costs 3 at Van Dykes Restorers (www.vandykes.com).Patterns are available from craft stores, or you canmake your own by tracing or photocopying images that appeal to you. Be sure tochoose a design that isn’t too busy and that lends itself to making a clear silhouette.Consider wearing some support for your wrists. After a lengthy punching session,the hammer may leave the upper arm and wrist sore, and keeping a tight grip on thepunch also can cause an aching thumb and forefinger.—Priscilla Chellisrunners instead of installing heavy-dutydrawer slides.The final touch is the hardware. Becausepie safes come from a particular period,I chose to remain within the flavor ofthat time. Rather than plain butt hinges,I selected distinctive late-Victorian hingeswith removable pins. The green glass pullsevoke the same period.There is a lot of contrast between yellow birch’s tan-colored heartwood and itscreamy sapwood. I wanted to tone downthis contrast while making sure the flameremained visible, so I stained the piece witha strong brew of ordinary tea. I boiled acouple of cups of water and tossed in 10 teabags, letting it brew for about 15 minutes.When the brew had cooled, I brushed itonto the piece. After the first coat had dried,I sanded with 330-grit paper. Not happywith the amount the wood had darkened,I applied a second coat and sanded again.Finally, I applied two coats of polyurethane,sanding each with 330 grit. Mike Dunbar is a contributing editor. Hisassistant, Fred Chellis, and his wife, Priscilla,helped in the construction of this project.Secure the tin panels from the rear. A strip of molding,mitered and tacked into place behind the tin sheet, holds thepanel in the frame created by the rabbets in the rails and stiles.JANUARY/FEBRUARY 200637
From Getting Started in Woodworking, Season 2 B y A s A C h r i s t i n Y ou can thank Mike Pekovich, Fine Woodworking’s art direc-tor, for designing this simple but stylish bookcase. He took a straightfor-ward form--an oak bookcase with dado and rabbet joints--and added nice pro-portions and elegant curves. We agreed that screws would reinforce
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5303 Pumpkin Pie (shelf stable) 8" 6 24 5304 Sweet Potato Pie (shelf stable) 8" 6 24 5326 Pecan Pie 8" 6 24 5824 Pumpkin Pie (shelf stable) 10" 6 40 5863 Pecan Pie 10" 6 36 Unbaked Pie Shells – Perfectly flaky pie shells make your signature desserts or savory quiche stand out while saving you valuable prep time.
The pie emoji would not be overly specific. The design would imply “pie” as indicative of a larger category of pie or as a symbol rather than a specific type of pie, or a pie specific to only one given situation (e.g. Thanksgiving pie). The interi
Apple pie, and pies in general – we have a phrase “ as American as apple pie” because we have so many pies and variations. A buttery crust, and a delicious filling. (img by romanlily) where to try: bakeries and specialty pie stores / restaurants, at home [Recipes: pie crust – apple pie – hundreds of pie recipes] 3.
Sarah makes a pie chart to show the proportion of boys and girls in her class. The next day another boy joins Sarah’s class. She makes a new pie chart. Calculate the angle for boys on the new pie chart. Number Size of angle in class on pie chart
8. In a few minutes while the pie maker is cooking, the green READY light will illuminate. This is linked to the thermostat of the pie maker and indicates the pie maker is cooking properly. Because it is recommended to start baking in a room temperature pie maker, the READY
A Fine, Fine School Independent Reading R e a d e rs eGuid RRR eee adddeeerrrr’’ss GG u ii d e A Fine, Fine School The Fine, Fine School Times Tillie is writing an article for the school newspaper, The Fine, Fine School Times. Her article will tell the real story. Use the text and illustrations to help her write the article. Read pages 20–23.
Digital Photo I Fine Arts or Elective (if all Fine Arts credits are met) Digital Photo II Fine Arts or Elective (if all Fine Arts credits are met) Graphic Design Fine Arts or Elective (if all Fine Arts credits are met) Fine Art
