Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion For Fashion, Tue, 15 .

Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 2021 10:002223242526An Irish crochet and cutwork linen jacket, circa1910, with leaves embroidered in French knot;together with an embroidered linen gown withcrochet insertions; and another of chemical lacecrochet with crocheted bauble tassels to waist,both circa 1910, busts approx 86cm, 34in (3)(Dimensions: busts approx 86cm, 34in) (Qty: 3) 300-500A group of mainly winter daywear in neutraltones, mainly 1910s, approximately eightensembles, including two c.1918 finelyembellished chiffon over-bodices with pom-pomtrimmings, one with associated silk skirt;checked tweed walking jacket trimmed with bluevelvet and associated velvet skirt; sand-colouredfacecloth coat with faceted jet-black buttons,both c.1914; two black wool and lace jackets;and others, various sizes (qty) (Dimensions:various sizes ) (Qty: qty) 300-400A group of déshabillé/undress garments andlingerie, circa 1910-12, including: five dresses,one of white-spotted cotton in triangularsilhouette and crocheted trimmings; four splitcamis; violet silk robe; seven point d'espritchemisettes with wired high-necks; elevenboudoir caps; an unusual bralet; and others,various sizes; together with a panel of floralprinted velvet, approx 173x226cm, 68x89in; andan Islamic embroidered silk panel with mosquemotif worked in metal threads to each corner,approx 112x117cm, 44x46in (qty) (Dimensions:various sizes ) (Qty: qty ) 350-500Three black gowns and four evening bodices,1910-1912, including black velvet gown byMaison Adèle Norero, Gènes, labelled towaistband; black chiffon example embroideredin chain-stitched ivory foliate repeats; ink-bluevelvet bodice with voluminous sleeves; togetherwith an ivory gauze skirt with crochetedinsertions and two remnants of a beaded tullefichu, various sizes (qty) (Dimensions: varioussizes) (Qty: qty) 250-400Three walking suits, 1911-1914, the first by D.Capredoni, Genova, of black velvet, the jacketwith military-inspired appliqué to the collar,purple silk lining, labelled; the second ofpinstriped teal wool, large self-covered buttonsto jacket, the skirt with chain-weighted hem; thethird of blue gauze; together with a soutachebraided blue linen dress and three summerblouses; and an unusual oversized silk grosgrainpurse, the filigree metal frame monogrammed'NOC', all also 1911-14, busts approx 81-92cm,32-36in (11) (Dimensions: busts approx 8192cm, 32-36in) (Qty: 11) 400-60027A black sequinned tulle gown, circa 1911, withpleated satin waistband, lightly-trained skirt,interior boning to bodice, bust approx 86cm,34in, waist 26in; together with a black velvetbodice, lined in striped taffeta, c.1900, bustapprox 86cm, 34in (2) (Qty: 2) 150-25028A large group of mainly black clothing, 19111918, comprising: three dresses, including aGiusti & C., Milan example of navy wool withstriped insertions of gold and black knittedthreads, another of crushed black velvet,matching coat with oversized silk-cord coveredbuttons; thirteen blouses/over-bodices, includingone example of brown silk with appliquédflowers; black silk cloak and a coat; togetherwith four veiled headdresses, various sizes (qty) 200-30029Five full-length robes of draped cocoonsilhouette, circa 1912, including an Azuteevening coat with black feather trim and tasselsof silver-coloured metal thread; the others ofsilk; together with a black satin ensemble withfinely beaded flowerheads to front, the bodicetrimmed with monkey fur, colobus satanas; anda bodice of ivory silk with ostrich feather trim,various sizes (8) (Qty: 8) 200-30030A beaded tulle tabard, circa 1915, the blackground covered entirely in bands of bronze andgunmetal-blue cut beads, edged with floral motif,singular hook fastening to front waist, bustapprox 92cm, 36in, waist 76cm, 30in(Dimensions: bust approx 92cm, 36in, waist76cm, 30in) 200-30031Two Liberty printed silk day dresses, circa 1917,unlabelled, of the same smock-styleconstruction with ruched yoke and two largepockets to front, fastening to the rear with shellbuttons and attached sash; together with a blackvelvet example with mink-trimmed sleeves;three chiffon examples with similar looped-ringbeaded motif; and another of pleated blackrayon with jet-black beading, all circa 1917-18,busts approx 92-96cm, 36-38in (7)(Dimensions: busts approx 92-96cm, 36-38in)(Qty: 7) 300-50032A kimono-style coat of Poiret-inspired printedsilk, edged in black fur, circa 1918, with stylisedflowerhead repeats; together with an eveningcape of black embellished tulle and contrastingivory lace, draped with large tassel falling torear, c.1918 (2) (Qty: 2 ) 200-300Note that charges apply, see website for detailsVintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 202110:00Page 3 of 49

Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 2021 10:0033A Madame Agnes Unwin of Regent St. cape,1910s, formed from a Chinese skirt, 19thcentury, labelled; together with a kaftan madefrom a length of Chinese embroidered satin,early 20th C.; two kimonos, one of printedcotton, 1920s; embroidered blue rayon robe,1920s; pink velvet example by Boutique Teo,1960s, labelled; and pink chiffon three-pieceensemble by Studio Fong Leng, 1960s (9) (Qty:9) 200-30034A group of mainly Chinese and Japaneseclothing for the European market, mainly 1920s30s, approximately eight ensembles, includingembroidered ivory satin jacket with astrakhanlining; brocaded silk dress made from a 19thcentury Chinese robe, 1930s, three kimonos;together with a small Ottoman embroidered woolwaistcoat, Azute stole; and others, various sizes(10) (Dimensions: various sizes ) 250-40035A quilted silk jacket with Ottoman-inspiredembroidery, 1920s, worked with stylised birds,flowers and foliate trails; together with anembroidered silk bodice, cut from an early 1920sdress, worked with couched threads, matchingbelt with pom-pom tassels; 1910s mixed lacebodice; and an early 20th C. fancy dresscostume in an 18th C. style, comprising: frockcoat and black satin breeches, c.1900, bustsapprox 86-92cm, 34-36in (6) (Dimensions:busts approx 86-92cm, 34-36in) (Qty: 6) 25035036A Liberty lamé shawl, 1920s, unlabelled, wovenwith chrysanthemums, two tassels to one end,approx 87x228cm excluding fringing; togetherwith a good gold lamé square shawl with strikingart-deco design, approx 130x130cm; and achiffon jacket/overdress with gold laceinsertions, bust approx 112cm, 44in; both 1920s(3) (Qty: 3) 150-25037A beaded black chiffon and crêpe eveningdress, early 1920s, the hem falling in scarf-likepanels with beaded tassels; together with abeaded black chiffon flapper dress, mid-1920s;sequinned tulle example, c.1923; and anothersequinned and later altered example(Dimensions: busts 81-96cm, 32-38in) (Qty: 4) 150-25038A large group of clothing, mainly daywear, early1920s, approximately twenty ensembles,including a two-tone brown chiffon dress withchain-stitched embroidery; shocking pinkpleated silk example with feather trim; twoidentical black rayon examples with knittedgreen wool sashes and embroidery; threeprinted chiffon camisoles; lamé and satinevening coat with fringed lining; knitted blackwool jacket with fur edging; and others, varioussizes (qty) (Dimensions: various sizes ) (Qty:qty) 200-30039A trompe l'oeil beaded black muslin bodice,1920s, labelled 'Made in France', size '46', bust92cm, 36in; together with another 20s exampleof beaded chiffon, bust approx 102cm, 40in; andan early 20s beaded tulle tabard, embellishedwith clear cut-beads in abstract pattern todropped waistline and lower skirt, bust approx86cm, 34in (3) (Qty: 3) 250-35040A knitted silk jersey blouse with appliquedembellished panels, 1920s, later-added 19thcentury Honiton lace collar, bust approx 102cm,40in; together with a 1930s beaded andsequinned pink tulle capelet, labelled 'Made inFrance'; ivory silk debutant or bridal gown withruched chiffon train and silk slip, late 1920s,Mappin & Webb pigskin vanity travel case withtortoiseshell accessories finely monogrammed'AWB'; cut velvet shawl; and others (qty) (Qty:qty) 200-30041Two good cloche hats, 1920s, the first of orangecrêpe-chiffon, appliquéd with flowers, stamped'Shop of Fashion, Le Chapeau, Autograph'; thesecond covered in soutache braid, labelled'Newport Hat, New York, Paris'; together withother accessories, mainly 1920s, including twoostrich feather fans in a J. Duvelleroy box; silkstole with ribbon-work lilacs; four evening bags,including one finely-beaded example; silverchatelaine purse frame, London hallmark; andothers (qty) 200-30042A beaded evening purse, French, circa 1925,with faux tortoiseshell clasp and mount, lined inpeach silk crêpe, 23cm, 9in long 100-15043A group of accessories, mainly 1920s-30s,including approximately 13 compacts, includingtwo novelty 'camera' examples; gilt metalexample with integral music box and Stratton'pop up' example; a 1940s minaudiere byVolupté in its original box, together with 3others; approximately 12 cigarette holders,including one celluloid Egyptian-inspiredexample, c.1925; and others (qty) (Qty: qty) 150-250Note that charges apply, see website for detailsVintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 202110:00Page 4 of 49

Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 2021 10:004445A beaded black chiffon evening ensemble,1920s and later altered, embellished with cutbeads, sequins and 'coral stones', comprising:dress with matching capelet and bag; togetherwith a black satin cape with printed silk liningand fringed hem; lamé lace dress with chiffonrosebuds to front left hip, busts approx 9296cm, 36-38in; a pair of black satin shoesmonogrammed with 'R' and plumes to soles;ostrich feather fan and a paper advertisingexample for the Hotel Cecil in Paris (qty) (Qty:qty) 200-300A Marthe Pinchart jacquard silk jacket, mid1920s, labelled, the complex patterns woven inshades of green, orange, red and blue, fasteningwith two self-covered buttons to the front hem,bust approx 102cm, 40in (Dimensions: bustapprox 102cm, 40in) 200-30046A dégradé beaded muslin flapper dress, mid1920s, altered in the 1930s by inserting godetsof silver rayon into the skirt, bust approx 96cm,38in (Dimensions: bust approx 96cm, 38in) 200-30047A pale pink velvet flapper dress, mid 1920s, theembellished chiffon skirt worked with 'pearl'beads and rhinestones; together with a beadedivory chiffon tabard, 1920s; pale peach taffetadress with net insertions and a black taffetadress, both c.1930, all unlabelled, busts approx86cm, 34in (4) (Dimensions: busts approx86cm, 34in) (Qty: 4) 200-30048A beaded pale yellow muslin flapper dress, circa1925, covered in seed beads with pinkflowerheads amongst foliate trails, the hemdipping lower at each side, bust 92cm, 36in(Dimensions: bust 92cm, 36in) 250-35049A good beaded muslin flapper dress, circa 1925,the ground covered entirely with high-shine cutbeads in petrol shades of blue, purple andgreen, intersected with zigzags of white, thedropped waist intricately beaded with curlingmotif in sky-blue seed beads, bust 92cm, 36in(Dimensions: bust 92cm, 36in) 250-40050A white muslin beaded flapper dress, circa1928, the bodice with scales of white and silvercut beads, scalloped hem, bust 86cm, 34in(Dimensions: bust approx 96cm, 38in) 200-30051A beaded white muslin flapper dress, circa1928, with diamond motif in pearlescent whitebeads and cut-work circles; together with aChantilly lace evening dress, circa 1933,52A coral-pink silk beaded flapper dress, late1920s, the ground covered entirely in silver seedbeads and translucent bugle beads, withmatching detached rear floating panel and twoadditional beaded circles, probably used forattaching, and matching rhinestone-encrustedbelt, bust 92cm, 36in (5) (Dimensions: bust92cm, 36in ) (Qty: 5) 250-35053Thirteen dresses, mainly for evening, 1920s1940s, including two lamé examples, 1930s; twochiffon beaded flapper dresses, 1920s; andothers; together with a damaged lamé-lacebodice, various sizes (qty) (Dimensions: varioussizes) (Qty: qty) 200-30054Six dinner dresses, mainly black, late 1920s1930s including one of floral printed chiffon;another of devoré velvet-chiffon with orangerayon slip; together with a jade-green velvetevening jacket with ruched collar; black velvetbolero by Thomas Kaye & Sons of Huddersfield,labelled; and two painted paper parasols,various sizes (qty) (Dimensions: various sizes )(Qty: qty) 200-30055A group of evening wear and accessories,mainly 1930s, approximately four ensemblesincluding: blue satin cloak with tiered fringes tohem and padded collar; blue lace gown withassociated slip; a 1920s-style green rayon-silkdress, the skirt overlaid with a 1910s panel oflamé lace adorned with velvet flowers; 1920sbeaded skull cap; ostrich feather fan; andothers, various sizes (qty) (Dimensions: varioussizes ) (Qty: qty) 300-50056A Mariano Fortuny pale peach silk Delphos,1920-30, printed Fortuny tape to inside, withwhite Murano beads to the shoulders, drawstringto neck 150-25057A black chiffon evening dress with laceinsertions, circa 1930, unlabelled, the tiered skirtformed from curved panels with lace flounces,bust approx 102cm, 40in; together with a blacksatin backed crêpe dress embroidered withChinese-inspired and stylised chain-stitchedcrane to front left hip and foliate trails toneckline, later-added 1930s capelet toshoulders, unlabelled, bust approx 81cm, 32in(2) (Qty: 2) 150-250unlabelled, busts approx 81cm, 32in (2)(Dimensions: busts approx 81cm, 32in ) (Qty: 2) 200-300Note that charges apply, see website for detailsVintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 202110:00Page 5 of 49

Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 2021 10:0058A rare Boué Sœurs couture silk day dress,'Perlette', Spring-Summer 1930, unlabelled, ofthe palest seafoam-green, the weighted droppedwaistline with two appliquéd hearts ofembroidered muslin, adorned with finely-workedsilk ribbon rosebuds, the collar and cuffs of thesame, bust approx 86cm, 34inAfter 31 years, Boué Sœurs left their home at 9,Rue de la Paix in January 1930. In February, theSpring-Summer collection of that year was thefirst to be presented at their new establishmentat 73, Av. des Champs-Elysées. Later that samemonth, French magazine ‘Lyrica’ published aswooning verse praising the beauty of designsby Boué Sœurs, written by an anonymous ‘poetadmirer’:Ravishing ensembles of lace and of roses, Ofprecious fabrics and rich colours, All yourdresses equal an apotheosis, Women turn tothese two great sculptors:Boué sœurs.After several seasons, like trophies,You still love them, thinking of the splendours,Which have been released for you from thefingers of fairies, Of these divinities who haveonly admirers:Boué sœurs.They have dressed the most beautiful bodies inthe world; New York after Paris have soughttheir favour, Their inventive esprit and theirfruitful spirit, Gathered under the label of thename of the two authors:Boué sœurs.Love songs orchestrated by two great virtuosos,You will never know how many imitators Havesought in vain to copy your roses, Your preciousfabrics and your rich colours,Boué sœurs.A sketch for this design is held in the PalaisGalliera, Department of Graphic Arts. Withthanks to Waleria Dorogova, the leading experton Boué Sœurs, for assisting with the attributionof this dress and translation. (Dimensions: bust60Two bias-cut floral printed chiffon dresses inshades of green, 1930s, unlabelled, the first withscalloped edging to flutter-sleeves, tie-belt, bustapprox 82cm, 32in; the second with roses andtiered godets to hips, bust approx 86cm, 34in;together with a mint-green chiffon capelet (Qty:3) 120-18061A black chiffon cocktail dress, early 1930s,unlabelled, embellished with Prince of Walesplumes of clear cut-beads and spangled withrhinestones, later adapted with lace sleeves;together with a slip, bust approx 96cm, 38in (2)(Dimensions: bust approx 96cm, 38in) (Qty: 2) 150-25062A group of mostly summer clothing andaccessories, 1930s, approximately tenensembles, including six dresses, one of floralprinted rayon in shades of red, white and blue,matching bolero; checked capelet with matchinghandbag; chinoiserie printed silk pyjamas; fivehats; and others, busts approx 82-86cm, 32-34in(qty) (Dimensions: busts approx 82-86cm, 3234in) (Qty: qty) 200-30063Four velvet evening gowns with couturefinishings, 1930s, comprising: changeantblack/red velvet bias-cut example by Enos ofMayfair, labelled; dark-red example, labelled'Miss. Cooke Ltd. (late of Enos).Grosvenor St';and two others in brown and plum, unlabelled,busts approx 86-92cm, 34-36in (4)(Dimensions: busts approx 86-92cm, 34-36in )(Qty: 4) 200-30064Three good sequinned evening capelets, 1930s,the first made-up from a 1920s dress panel ofblack chiffon with large-scale flowerheads ofiridescent sequins in shades of pink, orange andblue, unlabelled; the second by 'Stefney' andwith gold flower motif, labelled; and the thirdentirely covered in gold and black sequins,unlabelled (3) (Qty: 3) 200-30065A good floral printed chiffon garden party gown,1930s, unlabelled, in painterly shades of red,yellow and blue, with bias-cut skirt and threedimensional flower to keyhole neckline, bustapprox 86cm, 34in ) 300-50059A pair of Luciole lamé shoes, circa 1930,stamped to interior, the ankle straps threadingthrough gold leather straps to uppers, 2.5in,approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in(Dimensions: bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist71cm, 28in ) 200-3007cm heels, approx UK4, 23cm, 9in long (2)(Dimensions: approx UK4, 23cm, 9in long) (Qty:2) 120-18066Five miniature commercial traveller samples,1930s, each wool-blend dress constructed withmeticulous detailing, four examples infashionable prints, the fifth in black with aninverted box-pleated skirt and double ivorycollar, each 41cm, 16in long (5) (Dimensions:each 41cm, 16in long ) (Qty: 5) 200-300Note that charges apply, see website for detailsVintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 202110:00Page 6 of 49

Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion, Tue, 15 June 2021 10:0067Two velvet jackets, 1930s, unlabelled, the firstwith four pockets with Schiaparelli-inspiredchunky orange Talon zippers; the second ofdevoré velvet with rabbit-fur collar and cuffs;together with two printed dresses, 1930s, onewith novelty print of dancing flower-people,71unlabelled, busts approx 86-96cm, 34-38in (4) 200-30068A Lanvin-inspired blue chiffon evening gownwith couture finished seams, circa 1934,unlabelled, probably by a London courtdressmaker, the skirt embellished with diamondshaped panels of silver square sequins, bustlabelled, busts approx 82-92cm, 32-36in (6)(Dimensions: busts approx 82-92cm, 32-36in)(Qty: 6) 250-350approx 86cm, 34in, waist approx 71cm, 28in;together with a pale pink ostrich feather capelet,1930s (2) (Qty: 2) 200-3006970Five dinner and evening gowns in mainlyshades of blush pink, 1930s, including one laceexample with silk flower corsage to bodice,associated slip; black chiffon example with'Lightning' chunky plastic zipper to side bodice;purple silk-velvet example with bolero byMadame MacRal of Sloane Street, labelled; andothers; together with two ostrich feather stolesand three slips, various sizes (qty) (Dimensions:various sizes ) (Qty: qty) 200-300Two good lamé evening gowns in shades ofgold and brown, 1930s, each with matchingboleros and hand-finished seams, the first gownbias-cut with floral lamé belt, the bolero withlater-added buckle, signed 'made in Czechosl',indistinctly labelled, '10 Grafton St'; the secondexample with Schiaparelli-inspired dress clipsshaped as bunches of grapes stitched to thefront bodice, plastic side zipper, the bolero withscalloped neckline, lined in silk, unlabelled,Three black crêpe evening gowns with couturefinished seams, 1930s, comprising: Jacqmarexample with gauntlet sleeves and meshinsertions, labelled; another with chunky'Lightning' plastic zip to left bodice, unlabelled;the third bias-cut and with spaghetti straps,unlabelled; together with two evening jackets,the first of green crêpe with ostrich featheredsleeves, the second of berry-pink luxuriouslydraped silk-velvet, labelled 'Madame Mac Ral,22 Sloane Street'; and an Enos satin half slip,72A group of eveningwear, 1930s, comprising; twosequinned tulle boleros; a third example ofelaborately coiled and woven ivory silk threads,creating the effect of astrakhan fur, labelled'made in France'; two Marshall & Snelgroveevening coats, labelled; two black lace gowns;beaded evening bag; together with a buglebeaded

The small shop with its original antique stock of buttons was eventually bought in 1970 by Thelma Johns who sold the buttons from The Old Button Shop at Lytchett Minster. These buttons were acquired from her in the 1980s. The original cards are of the best quality sold in Engl